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missing link?

ausreenactor

Well-Known Member
That is a Switlik A-2 label... They produced a lot of gear, not A-2s.... Even knocking up one label to move a jacket would be a chore for a nefarious dealer or vendor...
 

Ken at Aero Leather

Well-Known Member
The exposed bobbin thread being the little bits between the longer bits, that look as if they're crossing over the main thread? There are two in the first circled area and one in each of the next two circles.View attachment 29678 That looks like a sewing machine with incorrect settings (thread tension or something), though there may well be a type of hand embroidery stitch that intentionally produces a similar effect).

Looks to me like a machine sewn label done after the jacket was finished, probably done through the opened sleeve lining seam, very hard to do a convincing job this way. Also label hread looks different (thicker) than body thread
Would also explain the spool(bobbin) thread showing, lifting the foot during manouevre of the work will loosen the top stitch, tightens again when foot drops causing uneven tension on top thread. Lots of foot lifting needed while attempting sewing a small area (label) through the arm lining
 
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Ken at Aero Leather

Well-Known Member
This is an interesting idea about removing the label. However it was not until December 1941 that "Property Air Force US army" first appeared on spec labels, so perhaps there was less reason to remove an early label. I too do suspect the Switlik label was added to inflate the value of the jacket.

Knowing the asking price would be the best guide to this theory
If it wasn't so obviously rare to start with the thinking that a mocked up label would increase the value seems to be counter productive.............at least to my logic.
 

Lorenzo_l

Well-Known Member
Great jacket, Vic, congratulations on the rare find. And the thread is just great, detective work to try to pinpoint the origin of what is, up until now, a mystery jacket. A part of what this forum is about
And welcome back, Andrew!
 

Officer Dibley

Well-Known Member
Knowing the asking price would be the best guide to this theory
If it wasn't so obviously rare to start with the thinking that a mocked up label would increase the value seems to be counter productive.............at least to my logic.

Exactly my point In post #31 ..... if ya paid $25 for it, likely original. If ya paid $5k for it, possible scam ....
 

Lorenzo_l

Well-Known Member
None have been identified, it is in the right time period but this jacket does not have the characteristic knit colour of Werber.

The collar and pockets look nothing like the Werber 33-1729's either. If it was, it would be a departure from that contract.
 
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Ken at Aero Leather

Well-Known Member
UnKnown A-2.JPG


Points of note and question?
1. Shows top thread on original top stitch
2. Shows spool thread of the orignal back of the zip topstitch. Which proves that the original method of top stitching an A-2 zipper was to topstitch the zipper with the leather side up not the easier way, lining up, as used in some WW2 contracts (Lower skill levels needed)
3. A very strange place indeed to ever need restitching, especially as the adjacent zipper thread is original and untouched, so not part of any other repair???????????
The darker brown (aftermarket) thread can be clearly seen over some of the original spool thread so unlikely to be a factory error restitched on the day of manufacture
The plot thickens
 

MikeyB-17

Well-Known Member
There seems to be some very wonky stitching in places, especially where that bit of dark brown thread is, and possibly on the seam further to the left higher up? Also in one of the other pics along the bottom edge of the lining above the waist knit. Don't know if this helps, just observing.
 

2BM2K

Well-Known Member
Here are some ideas and speculations;

If the jacket was made before 1934 then there were only three known contractors; SAT, Werber
and Goldsmith.

The double stitched pocket and flap would rule out SAT and Werber but Goldsmith did use double stitching on the pocket.

If Goldsmith did make the jacket then there could be a number of reasons for it.
1. Goldsmith had a second contract
2. They made a commercial jacket.
3. They made another test jacket.


The provenance of the jacket is key and trying to identify the original wearer would help. I find it interesting that the jacket was at Wright-Patterson Field, home of the Materials Division and not far from Cincinnati, Ohio, where the Goldsmith Factory was.

Of all the places where I would expect to find a Goldsmith jacket Wright-Patterson is at the top of the list.


But then there is also the label to puzzle over.
 

B-Man2

Well-Known Member
According to all contract records found on the Goldsmith, there was only one contract of 50 jackets and to the best of my limited knowledge. button hole pockets were in use for those jackets and the Sat jackets that followed. Pocket and collar snaps were soon to follow with the Werber but hadn’t been used up to that point in time. The jacket pockets and collar areas look to be original to the jacket so wouldn’t that mean that this jacket is more than likely after the period of the Goldsmith and Sat? Lastly , is there a possibility that this could be a commercially produced jacket made by Switlik, sort of a repro of that period of time . The Wright Patterson area was a dominant area of military flight and there were probably several companies producing flight gear and clothing for commercial use that replicated military issued clothing and gear .
Just trying to think outside the box a bit.
 
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