missing link?

[Ken at Aero Leather]

Great point, Andrew. I just went through the Eastman manual, and the double stitching is unattested across all contracts, so I don't THINK this is a case of someone trying to turn a fairly common contract into a unique one by adding a fake label. My guess is that Edward's hypothesis was correct: Switlik wanted to break into the A-2 jacket game, so they made a test jacket that they sent to the army. Rather than create a completely new label, they just took one of the labels that they used for their flying trousers and doctored it to look passable.

Can't see the factory making such a good jacket and making such a poor job of attaching the label
So which known contracts have double stritched pockets and press studs rather than buttons on the pocket, none that are known I believe?

 

[mulceber]

So which known contracts have double stritched pockets and press studs rather than buttons on the pocket, none that are known I believe?

Yep, none of them. Hence my suggestion that this was a test jacket by a company that was never awarded a contract.

 

[saucerfiend]

This is a fascinating find Vic. However, the label is actually from a pair of A-2 flying trousers, not from an A-2 at all. The label on the A-2 has been doctored with the 2 from the drawing number removed and the 5 from the order number removed. You can see the changes when you look at the photo of an A-2 trouser label. The drawing number should read 31-2413 and the order number AC 5515.

Andrew,
This is a great New Year's treat, having you back! Man, this really makes my day!

Brian

 

[Roughwear]

Thank you Brian.

 

[Skyhawk]

Yep, none of them. Hence my suggestion that this was a test jacket by a company that was never awarded a contract.

Amazing find! Let us not forget that the Goldsmith did have double top stitched pockets, and I believe single top stitched epaulets like this jacket.

They could possibly have worked off of a Goldsmith example to make this jacket.

Regards,
Jay

 

[John Lever]

Andrew,
This is a great New Year's treat, having you back! Man, this really makes my day!

Brian

I shared Vic's post, I thought it might entice Andrew home.

 

[Skyhawk]

Great to hear from you Andrew.

Happy New Year!

-Jay

 

[mulceber]

There are some features though that suggest the jacket might be a known contract. Apart from the double-stitched pockets, it's a good match for one of the early Werbers, from what I can see. The leather facing along the zipper on the inside of the jacket only showed up in the SAT contract, the first two Werbers and the first two Aeros.

 

[Roughwear]

Just to play devils advocate is everyone sure this jacket really dates to the early 1930s and is not a very clever creation using aged original metal work and leather, which has been carefully aged along with the knits?

 

[saucerfiend]

Is that actually an offset collar like a Perry A-2?

Brian

 

[Officer Dibley]

The provenance seems to indicate that not to be the case Andrew. Although there are liars a plenty in this hobby.
Perhaps the purchase price might tell us ... if low then unlikely to be a fake. If very high, there could be mischief involved ...
Dave

 

[John Lever]

There are some features though that suggest the jacket might be a known contract. Apart from the double-stitched pockets, it's a good match for one of the early Werbers, from what I can see. The leather facing along the zipper on the inside of the jacket only showed up in the SAT contract, the first two Werbers and the first two Aeros.

Question is why would anyone do that unless it is very valuable ?

 

[mulceber]

Amazing find! Let us not forget that the Goldsmith did have double top stitched pockets, and I believe single top stitched epaulets like this jacket.

They could possibly have worked off of a Goldsmith example to make this jacket.

Regards,
Jay

Ooh, thanks for that, Jay. Since I was working from the Eastman manual, I didn't have access to info on the Goldsmith. As I said in my last post, this jacket also has the inside leather facing along the zipper that was common in the most early contracts. The pocket flaps, meanwhile, aren't as angled as a lot of the other contracts.

 

[Ken at Aero Leather]

Amazing find! Let us not forget that the Goldsmith did have double top stitched pockets, and I believe single top stitched epaulets like this jacket.

They could possibly have worked off of a Goldsmith example to make this jacket.

Regards,
Jay

This one looks a division or two above the Goldsmith in design terms, exceptionally well made, I like the pockets a lot,
Too "miltary" in detail for a private purchase I'd say having seen a couple of Bloomingdales Officers versions way back

 

[Roughwear]

I would agree that if this is from 1931/2 it does resemble a Goldsmith A-2 with the double stitched pockets, but the collar stand is narrower than seen on a Goldsmith A-2. It also lacks the leather collar tag seen in this photo and the buttoned pocket flaps.

 

[Ken at Aero Leather]

Just to play devils advocate is everyone sure this jacket really dates to the early 1930s and is not a very clever creation using aged original metal work and leather, which has been carefully aged along with the knits?

if that was the case, surely a far better job would have been done on the label

 

[Ken at Aero Leather]

It has to date after all the button flap contracts, nobody would go back to that type of buttonhole after studs were accepted

 

[Roughwear]

Yes, it certainly could Ken. The label appears to have been hand sewn on too. I would agree it must post date the pocket flap A-2s.

 

[Ken at Aero Leather]

Yes, it certainly could Ken. The label appears to have been hand sewn on too.

Very possibly,

 

[Skyhawk]

This one looks a division or two above the Goldsmith in design terms, exceptionally well made, I like the pockets a lot,
Too "miltary" in detail for a private purchase I'd say having seen a couple of Bloomingdales Officers versions way back

Yes I agree. This would have not been made right after the Goldsmith but still in the 1930's. Possibly after the SAT & first Werber contracts. Maybe A test jacket submission from when they went to the snap pockets?

The pockets look a little Goldsmith inspired but this jacket would have been late made post mid 1930's I would think, based on the other details.

-Jay