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FIVE STAR

ties70

Well-Known Member
I don’t know. That isn’t even an oversight or a Friday afternoon mistake. It appears to be a shortcut; hoping to save the mouton collar instead of providing a new one. The stitches are evident of a concerted effort to salvage the mistake, at cost of customer.

To be honest, I think the pink thread and the fact that the seam came apart is a quality issue, but the mere fact that the collar was made from more than one piece doesn't mean it is shitty quality.

I have replaced a modern Dynel collar with a piece of probably 50 year old mouton I got from John Chapman years ago. The back showed that it consisted of three differently shaped pieces, but the seams were so well done and the fur so perfectly trimmed that it neither showed nor felt like stitched together from the fur side.

John got these mouton pieces from an old coat and I would assume that, to get a full coat, sewing the mouton together is rather unavoidable.

Again, pink thread, coming apart...not good. But "patched-together Franken-Collar" = bad quality...? Doesn't have to be so automatically.

Ties
 
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Nickb123

Well-Known Member
To be honest, I think the pink thread and the fact that the seam came apart is a quality issue, but the mere fact that the collar was made from more than one piece doesn't mean it is shitty quality.

I have replaced a modern Dynel collar with a piece of probably 50 year old mouton I got from John Chapman years ago. The back showed that it consisted of three differently shaped pieces, but the seams were so well done and the fur so perfectly trimmed that it neither showed nor felt like stitched together from the fur side.

John got these mouton pieces from an old coat and I would assume that, to get a full coat, sewing the mouton together is rather unavoidable.

Again, pink thread, coming apart...not good. But "patched-together Franken-Collar" = bad quality...? Doesn't have to be automatically.

Ties

that’s more than fair. Perhaps typed my comment in haste and was a bit harsh. I’d never seen or heard of it before so I stand corrected if this is a thing! Was a bit ticked seeing the photo feeling for the owner. But constructing from several pieces makes sense.
 

ties70

Well-Known Member
that’s more than fair. Perhaps typed my comment in haste and was a bit harsh. I’d never seen or heard of it before so I stand corrected if this is a thing! Was a bit ticked seeing the photo feeling for the owner. But constructing from several pieces makes sense.

Nick,

absolutely!

Your GW M-422 jacket was made with "carefully selected period vintage mouton...", as JC states on his website.

If we agree that it is highly unlikely that he sourced unused full hides, the most probable sources are womens coats from the 40s - 60s. The hides used for these, afaik, came mostly from lambs, not fully grown sheep, so seams are most likely...

As I said, really tough to see (and feel) from the furry side, if done properly.

Ties
 

Micawber

Well-Known Member
To be honest, I think the pink thread and the fact that the seam came apart is a quality issue, but the mere fact that the collar was made from more than one piece doesn't mean it is shitty quality.

I have replaced a modern Dynel collar with a piece of probably 50 year old mouton I got from John Chapman years ago. The back showed that it consisted of three differently shaped pieces, but the seams were so well done and the fur so perfectly trimmed that it neither showed nor felt like stitched together from the fur side.

John got these mouton pieces from an old coat and I would assume that, to get a full coat, sewing the mouton together is rather unavoidable.

Again, pink thread, coming apart...not good. But "patched-together Franken-Collar" = bad quality...? Doesn't have to be automatically.

Ties

Agreed. Real fur coats are out of fashion now but were once popular and the exotic skins very expensive. Examine examples carefully and you will find bits were skillfully let in pelts all over the place in order to make them useable. Doing this and blending them in is a skill bordering on an art.
 

B-Man2

Well-Known Member
My suggestion would have been that if anyone wants original antique mouton , to source it themselves and send it to 5 Star. Shawn is very accommodating and was happy to accept mouton that I sent him for a jacket he made for me . The collar came out beautifully.
1DEE543C-8068-470B-ABB2-C97049B52CFC.png
2DCDA412-F733-4051-A29E-5A8E08B915DD.png
 

Shawn Ali

Well-Known Member
1.5 inch separation dead centre in the mouton of my 5* G-1.
I’m growing very weary of these consistent quality control issues.

View attachment 63098
Dear Wei

Please find my explanation at this thread about the problem and facts behind that, still make joints and have a larger collar on a customers specific requirement of color is not something which is wrong

Best Regards

Shawn
 

Shawn Ali

Well-Known Member
My suggestion would have been that if anyone wants original antique mouton , to source it themselves and send it to 5 Star. Shawn is very accommodating and was happy to accept mouton that I sent him for a jacket he made for me . The collar came out beautifully. View attachment 63232View attachment 63233
On regular requirements from some customers we already made a very similar shade of the most accurate mouton which will arrive in our factory within 2 to 3 weeks.
3f4ec9c3-ef4b-40a5-adcb-0d87e8f1618f (1).jpeg

54922992-a974-4035-9073-ca0a8ab65614 (1).jpeg


We will be able to make even biggest sized collars without any joints in them.

Best Regards

Shawn
 

MaydayWei

Well-Known Member
Please see my response:
 

busdrivermike

Well-Known Member
I agree with @ties70 a patched together collar does not necessarily mean poor quality
My branded by orchard coast guard G1 has a two piece collar that is very solid considering its
Age based on its tag, the use of pink thread and separation on the jacket by 5star posted by @MaydayWei
Is strange and does speak to some quality control issues , especially using pink thread on seam on a brown jacket
Thats rather odd but a fixable issue if not by 5star a local shop that does fur work could probably sort it out
I’d be tempted to sew it myself using a curved needle to save a penny but that’s me

A685E30B-4EDA-4314-97FE-9CDE3E492AB0.jpeg
604F1E47-A357-447E-877A-C37C06A2D20A.jpeg
A3C2C83C-4FFC-4C23-B071-4125A3D40E9A.jpeg
 
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flyincowboy

Well-Known Member
2 pieces of leather sewn together to make a collar ? Not big deal especially when its period correct fur! easy to do,easy to cut with the correct template and not any wasting! Guess that the pink stitching is worring you! in other words at the shop they use the rest ! They are used to finish the bobin and most of the time they use a different coloured stitching and threads. Easy to see when you work with darker skins ! lighter coloured stitching on dark hide just my 2 cts. your M422 is not a poor quality jacket.
 
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MaydayWei

Well-Known Member
To be honest, I think the pink thread and the fact that the seam came apart is a quality issue, but the mere fact that the collar was made from more than one piece doesn't mean it is shitty quality.
Again, pink thread, coming apart...not good. But "patched-together Franken-Collar" = bad quality...? Doesn't have to be so automatically.

If you honestly think that these quality issues are the hallmarks of high quality jackets, that's 100% okay. I strongly disagree, but you don't have to agree with me.
If you are happy constantly going back and forth with Shawn over the course of months because his jackets keep having issues, more power to you.

But no matter how hard you try Mr. Ties. The truth is the truth.
5 Star Jackets are plagued with serious and glaring quality control issues.
No matter what you say, no matter what you do, this is a FACT. (proven by pictures below)
Your words in no way diminish the legitimacy of the serious defects in quality control on both my 5 star jackets.
Everyone on here has a right to know that if they order from 5 Star, they risk such quality issues. If they so choose to take that risk anyways, that is perfectly okay.

I don't want to have anything to do with Five Star from here on out. Please do as you wish.

e0db1a65-9831-48e9-9fc1-8e834a62baac-jpeg.52781

img_1703-jpg.63240

img_2468-jpg.63241
 

ties70

Well-Known Member
If you honestly think that these quality issues are the hallmarks of high quality jackets, that's 100% okay. I strongly disagree, but you don't have to agree with me.
If you are happy constantly going back and forth with Shawn over the course of months because his jackets keep having issues, more power to you.

But no matter how hard you try Mr. Ties. The truth is the truth.
5 Star Jackets are plagued with serious and glaring quality control issues.
No matter what you say, no matter what you do, this is a FACT. (proven by pictures below)
Your words in no way diminish the legitimacy of the serious defects in quality control on both my 5 star jackets.
Everyone on here has a right to know that if they order from 5 Star, they risk such quality issues. If they so choose to take that risk anyways, that is perfectly okay.

I don't want to have anything to do with Five Star from here on out. Please do as you wish.

e0db1a65-9831-48e9-9fc1-8e834a62baac-jpeg.52781

img_1703-jpg.63240

img_2468-jpg.63241

You really are a piece of work...

Do you actually read my posts or are you just pushing reply and get into fight mode the instant you see that I posted something!?

If you check above, then you will notice that I in no way justified the work you got from FS.... I have written that it is a quality issues.

But in general, patching mouton together... without any separating seams... no visible seams at all... seems possible and was probably more likely than not back in the 40s and 50s. Probably these coats would not have passed your personal quality standard, as well....

Enough said... Though I feel the itch to reply some more, I will listen to @Micawber and behave like a grown-up...

Ties
 
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