The Goldsmith A-2 By Headwind Mfg Co

[Skyhawk]

According to the other thread, we are starting the comparison photos. Here is a good one of the pockets:

 

[Ken at Aero Leather]

Very nice job, if that's made by Steve he's raised his game

On the other hand, I'd be amazed if the zipper didn't have the same doubled edged facing as all the other pre 1938s
Is that one of the changes you've planned? I've spotted a few things we've done different but these are probably how we see things but to my thinking the Zipper is a "no brainer"

 

[Silver Surfer]

coming along very nicely, jay. yeah the interior zipper jetting is a must.

 

[Skyhawk]

Very nice job, if that's made by Steve he's raised his game

On the other hand, I'd be amazed if the zipper didn't have the same doubled edged facing as all the other pre 1938s
Is that one of the changes you've planned? I've spotted a few things we've done different but these are probably how we see things but to my thinking the Zipper is a "no brainer"

Thanks! Steve is not making these jackets but I would not be worried if he was.

These Hookless zippers are new to my production team. They will get up to speed on them with a little practice. We can put the strips on the zipper. They are not visible on the Goldsmith original so we can't be 100% sure. If the consensus is that they were on there, we will put them on.

 

[silvio76]

I have some more preliminary photos of our test jacket. There will be a lot of changes coming to this prototype to bring it up to the level of authenticity I am aiming for. A few of the items that I think are looking good are the pocket shape and flap design and the collar. The pattern and the fine details need some work so we will be making up another test jacket to solve those items. I already identified the issues with the hook attachments and the zipper, as well as the windflap. Just some misunderstandings with production. Those are among the changes that will be made so no need to critique those items, I am on the case.

In regards to the labels, we went with the most likely combination that would have been used. The white Goldsmith label was actually used on Goldsmith's clothing items in 1930-31. The black label was never seen in this format or size. They did use a black and gold label on some baseball mitts but the actual label format and size were different. We don't think that they would have made a new label just for this 25 jacket production. If they did by chance use an existing mitt label that was black and gold, or even if they made a label, it would not match the spec label gold color perfectly as has been theorized with the other production. It looks to me like those perfectly matching labels were made at the same time by the same label maker. History has shown that this would have not been the case with the original jacket as the government supplied the Spec Labels.View attachment 10680
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jacket looks beautiful.

 

[B-Man2]

Jay
Looking at the period photos I think you matched the color of the leather in the photos quite nicely. When do you think the jacket might be ready to sell?

 

[zoomer]

Smashing!
I'm thinking 3 things:
- the original pocket flap is between Ken's (deeper) and yours (shallower) in depth. The tell is the height of the buttonhole vs how much flap lies above it.
- the way Arnold's collar curls suggests it's got a sharper point, somehow.
- his collar had, not an A-1 type thin loop, but a flat tab with a cut buttonhole.

But I imagine these are just a few of the things you’re on top of...

 

[gav]

The aero pockets look too curved in the corners on that picture comparison.

 

[jeremiah]

That could be the angle making it deceptive.

 

[gav]

Do you think?

 

[Juanito]

Smashing!

- the original pocket flap is between Ken's (deeper) and yours (shallower) in depth. The tell is the height of the buttonhole vs how much flap lies above it.
.

I would agree on the sample--smashing! Eagerly awaiting the actual production jacket, and I am certain I will need to add one of these.

Zoomer, an absolutely astute conclusion on the "tell" on the pocket flap. I find that it is many times the relaionship and placement/location of the varion components that give a jacket it's credibility.

 

[Skyhawk]

I would agree on the sample--smashing! Eagerly awaiting the actual production jacket, and I am certain I will need to add one of these.

Zoomer, an absolutely astute conclusion on the "tell" on the pocket flap. I find that it is many times the relaionship and placement/location of the varion components that give a jacket it's credibility.

I agree. I think once we make our flap a little Taller and get rid of the extra stitch line on top, it will be just about perfect.

Also I am toying with making the other pocket wider. It appears to be wider when you compare the two sides of the jacket.

 

[Ken at Aero Leather]

The aero pockets look too curved in the corners on that picture comparison.

I thought the Aero corners looked a tad sharp if anything rather than being too curved? Headwind's have a nice corner but look too shallow and that cramps the button hole, but I can imagine the original 25 had little variations from one jacket to the next, every original contract where I've examined at few at the same time had loads of little variations, Aero Beacon being one of the serial offenders

Smashing!

Arnold's collar had, not an A-1 type thin loop, but a flat tab with a cut buttonhole.

.

Zoomer, I can absolutely guarantee that if Goldsmith had a buttonholer to put a button hole in the throat latch then they'd have used it on the pocket plaps too..............100%

 

[zoomer]

Sure didn’t look like an inset hole to me...but all that’s come to light is that one pic...

 

[Bombing IP]

So where does that loop connect too ,is it a button under the collar ?. What is its primary function .

BIP

 

[zoomer]

It connects to a button under the opposite side of the collar. The function was to close the collar when flipped up, in somewhat the way an A-1 collar would close. (The hook/eye fastener at the neck assumed the function of the missing lower button.)

The shape, size and front angle of the collar all ought to reflect this. Ideally, the front edges would butt neatly or even overlap a little, given a typical size neck and chin.

With only one button and a much heavier collar, the button securement is likely to have been something more robust than a thin loop. Thus a flatter, wider tab (as Arnold’s best photo suggests).

 

[Skyhawk]

Naw I think it's just a loop. You can see the sewn together parts:

 

[zoomer]

It could be...but it's definitely thicker than the typical A-1 loop!

The concern here, obviously, is stretch. Those thin cape loops on the A-1 collar are really prone to stretching out of shape, but if made of horse and cut thicker, this might not be such a concern.

 

[2BM2K]

Re Buttons, collar and pockets; Just out of curiosity do the buttons have back-button reinforcement
similar to the ones on A1 jackets?

 

[Ken at Aero Leather]

It could be...but it's definitely thicker than the typical A-1 loop!

The concern here, obviously, is stretch. Those thin cape loops on the A-1 collar are really prone to stretching out of shape, but if made of horse and cut thicker, this might not be such a concern.

It's a stupid idea, little wonder it wasn't repeated. Indian got it right with their Bike Jacket collar tab