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Lewis/Aviakit 'Irvin'

John Lever

Moderator
Paul and Andrew,
Derek at Lewis could be a useful source of information here. He genuinely seems to be interested.
 

asiamiles

Well-Known Member
havocpaul said:
I have a collection of their 1950/60's advertisments from various motor cycle magazines of the time, I don't recall seeing Irvin style jackets but there are flying boots and a variety of leather jackets.
They did do a sheepskin "flying jacket" though, didn't they? There maybe a photo of one in one of Rin Tanaka's books, and I seem to recall it being closer to the D-1 than an Irvin.

Interesting to hear that they may have been a maker of Irvins during the war. Always something new to learn.
 

havocpaul

Active Member
John Lever said:
Paul and Andrew,
Derek at Lewis could be a useful source of information here. He genuinely seems to be interested.

I agree, I have always found him to be very happy to help and he is keen on looking back at the company's heritage and re-introducing older designs from the archive. They have plans for cloth jackets too. If you get hold of their colour catalogue it shows how they source the same or similar items such as labels and zippers, still using Lightning zips where appropriate. it is rare to find a company with such a rich history still maintaining the standards of manufacture from their factory here in UK....take note Belstaff (Italian company now).
 

joeson

Member
I seem to remember,from talking to Derreck,that Lewis used to sell post war surplus Irvins from their shop.
I had one of the Lewis flying jackets at one time.IIRC,the 'sheepskin' lining was actually faux sheepskin and the leather wasn't that great either.Not one of their best.
 

havocpaul

Active Member
Like many motorbike clothing makers they did make jackets from 'plastic/rubber' material with fake fur, these were popular and a cheap option back in the 1950's.
 

Roughwear

Well-Known Member
havocpaul said:
Like many motorbike clothing makers they did make jackets from 'plastic/rubber' material with fake fur, these were popular and a cheap option back in the 1950's.


This is quite true and they also sold wartime Irvins as well in the post war years. The low grade "Irvins" from the 1950s were made by several manufacturers in a time of austerity. I'm sure the new LL Irvins will be top notch.
 

joeson

Member
Roughwear said:
havocpaul said:
Like many motorbike clothing makers they did make jackets from 'plastic/rubber' material with fake fur, these were popular and a cheap option back in the 1950's.


This is quite true and they also sold wartime Irvins as well in the post war years. The low grade "Irvins" from the 1950s were made by several manufacturers in a time of austerity. I'm sure the new LL Irvins will be top notch.

You are right there.I have seen the one Derreck wears up close,and it is spot on.
 

havocpaul

Active Member
they are based now at 3-5 Whitfield Street, just off Tottenham Court Road no longer at Great Portland Street. I believe Derek is based at the showroom but if planning a visit it would be wise to phone and check....their website gives directions to the new shop.
 

m444uk

Active Member
Roughwear said:
As pre-War maker of motorcycle gear D.Lewis was ideally placed to make Irvin jackets. If they traded under the DGL TM, which is quite possible, they were responsible for making some of the best quality Irvins from the War, including the one in my avatar!

I'm looking forward to seeing the new Lewis Irvins later in the year.

Their 1929 label mentions aviation clothing

http://www.lewisleathers.com/gallery/ab ... ers_2.html

What does the G in DGL stand for ? It doesn't tie in with the directors names at that time.
Bud Ganz the US importer was not involved until the 1950's according to the website archive.

Interestingly ,their 1941 ad in flight magazine offers cash for used "Irvine type jackets"
 

John Lever

Moderator
It would be cool to find out that a WW2 contractor was still making Irvin jackets. I wonder where this would put Motol[sh]ita ?
 

m444uk

Active Member
John Lever said:
It would be cool to find out that a WW2 contractor was still making Irvin jackets. I wonder where this would put Motol[sh]ita ?

Looking at the vintage ads it's clear Lewis were selling their own 1936 pattern flying boots. It's surprising given the success of Eastman and others over the last 20 years that Lewis haven't marketed flight gear. They could claim in their advertising they are the only genuine makers. Everyone else has just bought the rights to trade names and make reproductions.
 

John Lever

Moderator
Derek just sent me a scan from a 1953 catalogue showing their 'Irvine [!] ' jacket.
Apparently there has always been confusion over the spelling.
On the same page is a dead ringer for the French cycle jacket. They plan to re-introduce this summer.
 

joeson

Member
havocpaul said:
They always reply fast, those forthcoming flying boots sound good, I have been looking for a wearable pair of RAF WW2 boots but I have relatively large plates, 10/11.
I popped into the shop just before Christmas and had a look at the flying boots.I have an original pair of '36 pattern and these seem to be the closest to those I have seen.I suggested maybe trying to market them towards re-enactors.
 

rich

New Member
John Lever said:
Derek just sent me a scan from a 1953 catalogue showing their 'Irvine [!] ' jacket.
Apparently there has always been confusion over the spelling.
On the same page is a dead ringer for the French cycle jacket. They plan to re-introduce this summer.

Seems they couldn't always get it right themselves...........!

LISIG2.jpg
 

Roughwear

Well-Known Member
The spelling of the name on my 1933 Irvin Air Chute jacket's label is "Irvinsuit". However the manufacturer is given as "Irving Air Chute". It did not have an "e" then and I think the "e" was added post War but not by IAC.

As far as the G is converned in DGL no one seems to know what it stands for. Another contender is Gamages of London, but until the original contracts can be located who actually made DGL jackets is likely to remain a matter for speculation.
 

havocpaul

Active Member
John, any chance of posting the scan of the Irvin from that catalogue? The situation with Aviation Leathercraft is sadly not uncommon, a famous and recognised name bought and then IMO abused to the detriment of the original product and legacy; with their owing the Irvin brand they prevent any other maker using such a name despite several companies now making more authentic and sympathetic jackets to the originals.
 

Roughwear

Well-Known Member
havocpaul said:
John, any chance of posting the scan of the Irvin from that catalogue? The situation with Aviation Leathercraft is sadly not uncommon, a famous and recognised name bought and then IMO abused to the detriment of the original product and legacy; with their owing the Irvin brand they prevent any other maker using such a name despite several companies now making more authentic and sympathetic jackets to the originals.


Well said Paul. I wonder whether a manufacturer could use "Irving" as a tilte or would it breech copyright?
 

Hawkeye

Member
I'm surprised that no one has mentioned the fact that these look absolutely identical to Eastman Irvins. The cut, the stitching, the zips, the fleece, all the little details just scream Eastman to me. Are we sure Eastman didnt make a special order of late-war jackets for Lewis?
 
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