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FIVESTAR LEATHER A2 JACKET

Peter T

Member
Hi has anyone photos of fivestar RW 23380 in pull-up HH (ideal in whisky brown collor) or another jacket from tris leather? On sunshine.
Thanks
 

WingAndaPrayer

Well-Known Member
Hi has anyone photos of fivestar RW 23380 in pull-up HH (ideal in whisky brown collor) or another jacket from tris leather? On sunshine.
Thanks
This is a dubow and not a RW, but you can see how the hide looks in the visky horse. It was sold on eBay. The hide was very thick.
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Larsj

New Member
The 27798 was made in both HH and goat. Gary just hadn’t seen any goat examples when he wrote the book.

edit: I was actually incorrect about Gary not having seen one - I just double-checked the entry on the Dubow 27798, and in the "notes of interest" section, he says "The majority of the jackets in this contract are of a hide type as per the subject jacket opposite (Horsehide), however, Goatskin versions were also produced."

Here’s a picture of a goat original:
View attachment 73296
Incidentally, this jacket belonged to Technical Sergeant George R. "Bob" Caron, the tail gunner on "Enola Gay". From his vantage point in the rear of the aircraft, he was the first person to witness the mushroom cloud over Hiroshima after the atomic bomb detonated. Pretty cool piece of history!
 
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GON78

New Member
I am new here. First of all, I send greetings to all of you and I apologize if my english is not good. I'll blame Google Translate. I bought my first A2 jacket from Five Star, specifically a Bronco. I ordered a 44 but I sent my measurements and the measurements of my favorite jacket as they requested. The reality is that it has been taking the jacket out of the bag and putting it up for sale. I haven't used it even once. The shoulders are completely square and there is a huge excess of skin on the back. I have conveyed my concerns FS people but there is no good communication. Even after my anger I want to give the brand another chance and I'm going to try again with another model. I am clear that the Bronco model is not well made to avoid square shoulders and even though it is supposedly a model with a better fit, the back is not free of wrinkles, at least on mine. I've been thinking about a Dubow. Five star has two Dubow models but I think the one they copied from the original is 27798. What are the opinions of the chat experts? Is a good fit possible with a FS jacket? My chest is 43.5, wide shoulders and athletic body, and I am looking for a tight size. I understand that an A2 is not the best fitting jacket in the world but I have had some Schotts and I see photos of Canyon(form me te best), GW, ELC and I see that they fit well.
Thanks.
 

mulceber

Moderator
The 27798 is a good choice - the people I've seen who bought one were satisfied with the jacket they received. The Star, Rough Wear, and Poughkeepsie contracts would also be good options.
 

GON78

New Member
What do you think of this model? From the measurements it looks like it has a snug fit and the skin color is one of the nicest I've seen on FS and reminds me of other brands I've talked about. Although the truth is that I don't know if it is good to trust the color of the photos.

 

usafchappyt

Active Member
Bronco is probably Fivestar's worst model along with the "Men Type A-2 Repro Real Leather Brown Aviator flying Pilot Jacket," it's a A2-style model that they put together before Shawn was a regular here sourcing original jackets for historically accurate patterns and getting tips and corrections from the experts on this forum. His historically based jackets are great accurate reproductions without getting into Eastman and Goodwear territory $1000+ To see the visky color, Get on the Fivestar clothing and sales Facebook page for better photos from owners, there's some good visky jacket photos out there, the website photos don't do justice to the jackets or materials, I believe you can see better pictures of the

If you want something closer to what was mentioned get a Dubow, Sheeplined or one of the makers @mulceber mentioned in russet or mid brown or goatskin in the "special Dubow" color which he calls sometimes crystal brown, or possibly mid brown or russet as well. General consensus is that fivestar "seal" is too dark, but some people love it. Shawn will make you a jacket in any color you like, if he stocks the leather, and custom fit as well. My Dubow 27798 in russet horsehide is reviewed here and here, with some customizations.

The visky horsehide is not historically accurate, but it's your jacket, and if you love the color go for it. Keep in mind historically accurate A2 leather is "semi-aniline" which means that the leather is dyed brown and then an opaque pigment color is applied on the surface. It's tough and resists water stains better, but is not as rich or natural as pure aniline dyed leather (I think the visky might be pure aniline?)
What do you think of this model? From the measurements it looks like it has a snug fit and the skin color is one of the nicest I've seen on FS and reminds me of other brands I've talked about. Although the truth is that I don't know if it is good to trust the color of the photos.

 
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GON78

New Member
Bronco is probably Fivestar's worst model along with the "Men Type A-2 Repro Real Leather Brown Aviator flying Pilot Jacket," it's a A2-style model that they put together before Shawn was a regular here sourcing original jackets for historically accurate patterns and getting tips and corrections from the experts on this forum. His historically based jackets are great accurate reproductions without getting into Eastman and Goodwear territory $1000+ To see the visky color, Get on the Fivestar clothing and sales Facebook page for better photos from owners, there's some good visky jacket photos out there, the website photos don't do justice to the jackets or materials, I believe you can see better pictures of the

If you want something closer to what was mentioned get a Dubow, Sheeplined or one of the makers @mulceber mentioned in russet or mid brown or goatskin in the "special Dubow" color which he calls sometimes crystal brown, or possibly mid brown or russet as well. General consensus is that fivestar "seal" is too dark, but some people love it. Shawn will make you a jacket in any color you like, if he stocks the leather, and custom fit as well. My Dubow 27798 in russet horsehide is reviewed here and here, with some customizations.

The visky horsehide is not historically accurate, but it's your jacket, and if you love the color go for it. Keep in mind historically accurate A2 leather is "semi-aniline" which means that the leather is dyed brown and then an opaque pigment color is applied on the surface. It's tough and resists water stains better, but is not as rich or natural as pure aniline dyed leather (I think the visky might be pure aniline?)
Thank you very much for your time to respond. I don't have fluid communication with Shawn but I understand that I am not an easy client. Although I don't think anyone here is. I want Horsehide and I'm between Sheeplined or Star. The problem I see with the colors is that the Seal brown is too dark and I didn't really like the one I bought. I find the medium brown very chocolatey and the reddish ones very red. I really like this one that I send in the photo. Is there anything in stock similar to that?
 

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GON78

New Member
These are two repros of the contract: Star W535ac 28557. One from FS and the other from Bill Kelso. Is it just an optical effect or are the FS sleeves much wider at the wrist? Does the photographer fail, or does the reproduction fail? For me it is not the same jacket. But the repro is based on the same model. I don't want a sack of potatoes, with all due respect to sacks of potatoes.
 

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B-Man2

Well-Known Member
I think the problem with respect to your comparison of these two jackets is that it’s a comparison between a higher end makers jacket who uses original jackets as patterns when duplicating their repros vs a lower cost jacket maker, who may not have had the benefit of making their patterns from original jackets. We see this issue regularly where some are hoping to purchase a jacket that looks as good , fits as good and has the accuracy of a top tier jacket such as GW or ELC or in this case a BK jacket, for a 5 Star price . My suggestion is if these are important factors to go with the BK and you won’t be disappointed at the outcome .
 

usafchappyt

Active Member
I think the problem with respect to your comparison of these two jackets is that it’s a comparison between a higher end makers jacket who uses original jackets as patterns when duplicating their repros vs a lower cost jacket maker, who may not have had the benefit of making their patterns from original jackets. We see this issue regularly where some are hoping to purchase a jacket that looks as good , fits as good and has the accuracy of a top tier jacket such as GW or ELC or in this case a BK jacket, for a 5 Star price . My suggestion is if these are important factors to go with the BK and you won’t be disappointed at the outcome .
I could be wrong but isn't Star one of the jackets FS copied from an original?

But I agree with the point about high end vs low end. Five-star is great, but you can't expect high end quality from low end price
 

usafchappyt

Active Member
These are two repros of the contract: Star W535ac 28557. One from FS and the other from Bill Kelso. Is it just an optical effect or are the FS sleeves much wider at the wrist? Does the photographer fail, or does the reproduction fail? For me it is not the same jacket. But the repro is based on the same model. I don't want a sack of potatoes, with all due respect to sacks of potatoes.
It appears the BK sleeve is puffed up round while the FS is pressed flat. FS patterns the better jackets getting disassembling originals and copying piece by piece, so they should be close to true originals.

Another point is that original jackets were mass produced to the tune of tens of thousands using mass produced cheaply tanned horse and goat cut in the most economical way, including loose grain, thin areas, soft belly hide and so on. Original jackets have missed stitches, crooked bits , uneven pockets. BK Aero on up choose great hides and cut the best parts of the leather, and sew the garments like artisans. FS jackets are well made, but reproduce more of that original mass produced feel, including grain variation etc. you will not find artisan Japanese and Italian hide at five star or anything approaching an equivalent. If you want a gorgeous work of art, save up the extra and get BK or Aero. If you want a good jacket that is realistic copy of contract sewn originals, and you're ok with the variations in grain and so on, Five-star is great at 380. But 380 is expensive for a jacket you won't love.
 
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BadMofo

Well-Known Member
These are two repros of the contract: Star W535ac 28557. One from FS and the other from Bill Kelso. Is it just an optical effect or are the FS sleeves much wider at the wrist? Does the photographer fail, or does the reproduction fail? For me it is not the same jacket. But the repro is based on the same model. I don't want a sack of potatoes, with all due respect to sacks of potatoes.
Here is my latest:
Fivestar Rough Wear A-2 HH Brandy

https://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/new-hide-from-fivestar.28379/post-365293
 

ZuZu

Well-Known Member
It appears the BK sleeve is puffed up round while the FS is pressed flat. FS patterns the better jackets getting disassembling originals and copying piece by piece, so they should be close to true originals.

Another point is that original jackets were mass produced to the tune of tens of thousands using mass produced cheaply tanned horse and goat cut in the most economical way, including loose grain, thin areas, soft belly hide and so on. Original jackets have missed stitches, crooked bits , uneven pockets. BK Aero on up choose great hides and cut the best parts of the leather, and sew the garments like artisans. FS jackets are well made, but reproduce more of that original mass produced feel, including grain variation etc. you will not find artisan Japanese and Italian hide at five star or anything approaching an equivalent. If you want a gorgeous work of art, save up the extra and get BK or Aero. If you want a good jacket that is realistic copy of contract sewn originals, and you're ok with the variations in grain and so on, Five-star is great at 380. But 380 is expensive for a jacket you won't love.
I disagree with your evaluation of WW2 leather and A-2 manufacture. Uneven pockets maybe but rarely "missed stitches". I don't know what "crooked bits" are. WW2 A-2s were produced on an industrial scale and a few may have slipped through inspection with slight flaws but never anything major affecting the utility of the jacket. They were made with beautiful leather virtually unavailable today- grain variation has always been normal for leather- only since the 90s has the smooth couch leather of today become "gorgeous'. It takes a top repro manufaturere to capture this industrial sewing look- crappy sewing by Pakistani leather guys phoning this stuff in does NOT make for an "original mass produced feel" IMO.
A 5 or 6 count of stitches per inch is not capturing the WW2 industrial look- it's crappy sewing- nothing like originals.
As I've said before- there is no Great White Hope- you're not going to get a beautiful A-2 copy paying $380 for a jacket made halfway around the world. You'll spend that $380 at least 3 or 4 times trying to get the right jacket and then you'll end up buying a good one...
 

mulceber

Moderator
FS patterns the better jackets getting disassembling originals and copying piece by piece, so they should be close to true originals.
I have never heard Shawn claim he disassembles originals. Quite the contrary, whenever the subject has come up, he's said he does NOT do that. He examines them and takes measurements, but leaves the jackets intact.

If you want a gorgeous work of art, save up the extra and get BK or Aero. If you want a good jacket that is realistic copy of contract sewn originals, and you're ok with the variations in grain and so on, Five-star is great at 380.
Who has ever said that the big name-makers don't have variation in grain? Most of them pride themselves on having variation in grain and take loving photos showing off how idiosyncratic the leather is.
 
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