Dubow "Platon" A-2 Quality

[Jenks49]

Hi, sorry to revive this thread. I own a beautiful 2 years old seal brown A2 jacket from Platon, size 42. Recently I pulled the jacket from my closet and realised, it is too tight. The jacket was a perfect fit when it arrived, but after two years I almost can´t close the zipper. Don´t get me wrong, I did gain some muscles, but nothing spectacular. So today I checked again the measurements of my jacket with the ones on the website and I now own a size 40 jacket . Is it normal for Platon jacket to shrink that much?

 

[mulceber]

In my experience, yes. I haven't owned one of Platon's jackets, but he's using Victoria (Italy) horsehide, which is basically the same stuff used by BK (Liberty HH), Aero (Vicenza), GW, and Sheeley (when he isn't using goatskin). My BK Star started out perfect for the measurements of a 42 Long, and over time and wear it's now about right for a 40L.

The reason is that Victoria tannery stretches the horsehide as part of the tanning process in order to get as much bang for their buck as they can. Unfortunately, over time, the leather goes back to its original size. It is possible for the jacket maker to pre-shrink the HH, but they have to know to do it.

 

[Silver Surfer]

Over the course of about a year, a newly tanned hide will shrink a very small amount. However, depending on the amount of remaining water, tanning liquids, dyes, etc, the hides can shrink noticeably. I have noticed this with some shinki hh, and Italian hh. The shrinkage can happen with moo, but less so with goat.

 

[Jenks49]

Thank you for the replies! I will have to obtain a new one size 46, I guess.This one will be for sale. Do you know, what the waiting times with Platon jackets are right now? Thanks again!

 

[Pa12]

Mine took 7 months last year, but I’m not sure they’re taking any new orders. Been cut off for quite a while now.

 

[Jenks49]

I just contacted him, so let´s see. I will let you know

 

[Pa12]

Oh man, unless there’s been changes in the organization, I wouldn’t hold my breath. Flogging a dead horse here but my experience was pretty much zero communication. I received a receipt for payment (from bill kelso manufacturing) and an email 7 months later saying it’s been shipped. Emailed them a half dozen times in between with just automated responses saying they’ll get back to me in due course. Sounds a bit scary but you might have to just try ordering one. I believe they’re honest enough to refuse or refund payment if they’re not taking orders. Might be a way to at least get a response.

 

[mulceber]

@Pa12 , aren't you trying to unload a 46?

 

[Pa12]

Yes, but it’s russet. And on the Platon subject, when I listed it dimitri mentioned the measurements were identical to his 44. I’m starting to wonder if it was a cock up? I take a 44 in modern jackets and Goodwear. 46 in Elc. This Platon 46 “just “ fits with nothing but a shirt underneath. I think that’s why I don’t wear it. It fits, but I have a couple gw’s that fit a lot better.

 

[B-Man2]

Yes, but it’s russet. And on the Platon subject, when I listed it dimitri mentioned the measurements were identical to his 44. I’m starting to wonder if it was a cock up? I take a 44 in modern jackets and Goodwear. 46 in Elc. This Platon 46 “just “ fits with nothing but a shirt underneath. I think that’s why I don’t wear it. It fits, but I have a couple gw’s that fit a lot better.

Platon made jackets just seem to run a hair smaller for their marked sizes . Also shorter down the back length. I had a 48 that measured only 25 inches from the rear collar seam down the back to the bottom of the waist knits . That’s short for a size 48 regardless of what Platon says . I’m guessing it’s just one more way to shrink the hide consumption when making jackets.

 

[Pa12]

Platon made jackets just seem to run a hair smaller for their marked sizes . Also shorter down the back length. I had a 48 that measured only 25 inches from the rear collar seam down the back to the bottom of the waist knits . That’s short for a size 48 regardless of what Platon says . I’m guessing it’s just one more way to shrink the hide consumption when making jackets.

Cheap bastards

 

[Pa12]

Platon made jackets just seem to run a hair smaller for their marked sizes . Also shorter down the back length. I had a 48 that measured only 25 inches from the rear collar seam down the back to the bottom of the waist knits . That’s short for a size 48 regardless of what Platon says . I’m guessing it’s just one more way to shrink the hide consumption when making jackets.

Looks like guys who take 44 or under have an ace in the hole. The rest of us suck the hind teet.

 

[Pa12]

Platon made jackets just seem to run a hair smaller for their marked sizes . Also shorter down the back length. I had a 48 that measured only 25 inches from the rear collar seam down the back to the bottom of the waist knits . That’s short for a size 48 regardless of what Platon says . I’m guessing it’s just one more way to shrink the hide consumption when making jackets.

I’ve talked to John about Dubow’s and he said they’re no shorter then any of the other contracts, so I think your right.

 

[coolhandluke]

In my experience, yes. I haven't owned one of Platon's jackets, but he's using Victoria (Italy) horsehide, which is basically the same stuff used by BK (Liberty HH), Aero (Vicenza), GW, and Sheeley (when he isn't using goatskin). My BK Star started out perfect for the measurements of a 42 Long, and over time and wear it's now about right for a 40L.

The reason is that Victoria tannery stretches the horsehide as part of the tanning process in order to get as much bang for their buck as they can. Unfortunately, over time, the leather goes back to its original size. It is possible for the jacket maker to pre-shrink the HH, but they have to know to do it.

Any photos of the Star after it has broken in Jan? I think I've only seen photos of that jacket when it was first received from BK.

 

[mulceber]

Honestly, I'm still not sure I'd call it broken in, as it's still pretty stiff, but here ya go!

 

[coolhandluke]

Honestly, I'm still not sure I'd call it broken in, as it's still pretty stiff, but here ya go!View attachment 108359
View attachment 108361

Nice! Thanks Jan.

 

[Flightengineer]

I agree that Platon's jackets are a bit on the short side (back lenght and sleevelenght) initially and also slightly different from the table on his website, as already mentioned here.
But both of my Dubows have not shrinked over the years that I own. On the contrary, my second Dubow, whose shoulders were 0.7 cm narrower than the first, stretched and now identicak to first one.

 

[Wedge417]

Jumping on the train, my Platon made dubs hasn't shrunk either. As a matter of fact the more I wear it the more it stretches. The odd thing is I initially ordered a size 44 but received a size 42 due to Platon's mistake. The 42 fits like a glove. But I do reckon they're on the short side and could be a problem for tall gents. The "short bit" fits me well as I'm a short guy who always has to get everything shortened, sleeves included.
I guess it's good to have various repro makers that each offer products that satisfy different niches and body types.

As for shrinkage maybe it's worth asking Platon if he changed the hides he's using. Or it perhaps has something to do with where you live and the humidity/heat. I'm under the impression the same leather in Europe will behave very differently in Asia or South America because of weather and humidity.

 

[Flightengineer]

One of my two Platon's Dubow after 1.5 years of wear, becoming looks better every day.
The photo was taken in bright sunshine, there may be a chance to take a photo on an overcast day to show wear and patina formation.








the jacket hasn't shrunk in this time

 

[Juanito]

Platon made jackets just seem to run a hair smaller for their marked sizes . Also shorter down the back length. I had a 48 that measured only 25 inches from the rear collar seam down the back to the bottom of the waist knits . That’s short for a size 48 regardless of what Platon says . I’m guessing it’s just one more way to shrink the hide consumption when making jackets.

I would agree with all that has been said. I had a 44 Platon that was small and ended up with Burt's 48 mentioned above, which is perfect. In real terms, the jacket is smaller than any 46 I have ever owned.