-
When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Soften up hard leather
- Thread starter bazelot
- Start date
Andrew
Well-Known Member
I'd try wetting the inside surface well with hot water and scrunching it up working the leather one way then the other. This just resembles and accelerates the natural wear and tear of any type of leather gear- shoes, boots, belts etc. Once it's in position it should regain some stiffness and stay in position.
This also raises a question- why is it only USN flight helmets have chin-ups? Something to do with carrier deployment?
This also raises a question- why is it only USN flight helmets have chin-ups? Something to do with carrier deployment?
unclegrumpy
Well-Known Member
Andrew said:
This method works well for new leather, but not always for old.
I have encountered the same problem with Navy flight helmets. I have a few mint unissued chin cups, and they are all rock hard. I suspect that they were stiff when newly pressed, and that process did not leave much life in the leather....and even less after 70+ years.
My luck has only been limited "restoring" these, and so I basically decided long ago to just live with it. I have upgraded a few chin cups to ones that I thought looked better, but don't try to "restore" them anymore.
If I were to make an attempt, I would soak it in Lexol, not water. The chin cup will probably respond to that, but may or may not hold up a year from now. For the most part on all things leather, I am a "leave it alone" guy. Generally overtime, the "restoration process" will make the item worse. Most museums are doing very little these days, except maybe a little light cleaning using the smallest amount of distilled water they can to get the mold, surface dirt and such off.
bazelot
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys. I think I will try to put it in hot water to see if it softens it up. All the Navy chincups I have are fine and flexible (and I have a lot!!!) Right now I put a replacement chincup but I would love for the helmet to retain the one it came with especially since it is a rare helmet. The chincup i put is exactly the same but deep down I know it was not issued with this specific helmet 
The Navy types M450 helmet and 1092 (same design, different material) are both pre war helmets and a lot of helmets had chincups then. THe Navy kept both those helmets throughout the war. Later Navy helmets got rid of the chincup.
The Navy types M450 helmet and 1092 (same design, different material) are both pre war helmets and a lot of helmets had chincups then. THe Navy kept both those helmets throughout the war. Later Navy helmets got rid of the chincup.
bazelot
Well-Known Member
Ok, so the hot water treatment softened up the leather in 2 seconds. I am afraid I was over-zealous with the amount of water as i actually soaked the whole chincup in hot water. One strap broke . I will fix it with barge cement once the chinstrap is dry. I am now drying the chinstrap to the required form. Hopefully thta will work.
. I will fix it with barge cement once the chinstrap is dry. I am now drying the chinstrap to the required form. Hopefully thta will work.
unclegrumpy
Well-Known Member
Barge is a type of glue that is best known for repairing shoes. It works really well, though I am not sure it will hold a broken chin strap together.dmar836 said:
unclegrumpy
Well-Known Member
bazelot said:
This is one of the problems of soaking in strait water, and where Lexol excels. Lexol is water based, and is used as a dressing on wet tack. Horse tack is usually heavy duty leather, but can still dry out once it has been wet.
When restoring something, the question after deciding if you are going to attempt it or not, is what to use. I think that is always a tough choice. You want something that is formulated for old leather, and does not contain the acids and silicones that products for new leather use for softening agents.
The next choice is the way the product delivers the nourishment to the leather. For example, Lexol is water based, and a product like Pecards is petroleum based. Both have their pluses and minuses, but for something like a chin cup, I think the Lexol might be the better choice.
Thirty years ago, the product of choice was pharmaceutical grade lanolin, which you bought at the Drug Store. That still is the best choice for some things. It rarely destroys the piece you are working on, but it can discolor and can permanently leave a greasy a residue.
I had not used Pecards in years, and recently decided to buy some. However, I was not pleased to find that instead of having multiple formulations for different applications....new leather, antique leather, motorcycle leather....and so on like they indicate on their website...it is all the same stuff, but in tubs with different lids.
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=10742&p=97033&hilit=pecards#p97033
Another product I have heard about, but not used is Zymol. I might order some, but have found out the original formulation from Germany, which is what I would want to try is $31 for 8 oz. They have sold their name in the US, and "Zymol" is available in Target Stores for about $8, but it is not the same product.
http://www.garageenvy.com/shop/treat-le ... ioner.html
Everyone has different opinions on what to use on antique leather. However, the hard core museum conservators, after using a number of different products over the years, are generally in agreement that doing nothing is most often the best option. I am not saying I always do nothing, but that is the plan "A". Moving to a plan "B" is never an easy choice, and one as you can see I am still wrestling with.
