Sheeley Perfecting Civilian Type Button UP Leather Jackets

Discussion in 'Reproduction manufacturers' started by Maverickson, Feb 14, 2019.

  1. Maverickson

    Maverickson Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    386
    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Hi All,

    Recently, I've been spending some time perfecting my talents doing button up vintage jackets and thought to share that work with the forum. Especially Monarch type designs that I have noticed some of the Japanese jacket makers have been busy duplicating.

    In doing this latest build I employed 5 different machines to create the correct vintage look (using French seams complete) for civilian 1930s to early 1940s button up jackets. Done to raise the bar to more correctly and completely duplicate the Monarch way of building a jacket.

    I've completely developed this button up pattern. All done using some of the many vintage Monarch jackets that I have accumulated. At this point I can now build that specific size model jacket as needed. All by simply changing lengths or swapping out the back panels to create the desired look & model for that given size. Whether form fitting like a half belt or semi relaxed like this referenced split back or an altogether loose fitting boxy jacket like seen done with Monarch's double breasted jacket aka Barnstomer.

    See some descriptive pix on what you might expect to see with your build. In this case, from Monarch's pre War pattern.

    Perfect Keyhole Buttonholes

    French Seams Complete
    Even the inside/lower Sleeve Panels
    Splitting Back Panel

    Vintage Buttons

    A rarely seen but a true Monarch design (copied from an original 1940s civilian Monarch jacket) & more often than not also used by Japanese makers https://www.thewildone.jp/item/theVanishingWest_freewheelers_FourCornersJacket_VINTAGEBLACK/ (same half gussets can be seen if you scroll down through those pix) on their builds.

    As I do more like builds & from different model jackets I'll be adding to this thread!


    Cheers, Dave
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2019
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  2. jeremiah

    jeremiah Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,088
    Location:
    Mississippi
    Looks great Dave. Thanks for sharing.
     
  3. saucerfiend

    saucerfiend Active Member

    Messages:
    477
    Boy, those French seams are really impressive. Looks like they'd be tough to do. But, I guess you have the right machine for the job.
    Great work !

    Brian
     
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  4. Jonesy86

    Jonesy86 Member

    Messages:
    93
    Thats a beauty, gotta love that original Monarch design! Is that goatskin?
     
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  5. Maverickson

    Maverickson Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    386
    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Hi Brian,

    Yes, French seams complete are avoided by most. As the work load is greatly increased when incorporating them into a build. That is as compared to the simple folded and reinforced seam generally seen. Even more simple are the straight blind stitch work done almost exclusively to the lower/inside sleeve seam by most. However, always seen done using French seams on a vintage Monarch.


    On my builds I am after that correct Monarch MFG vintage look with my jackets.

    As seen here https://www.thewildone.jp/item/theVanishingWest_freewheelers_FourCornersJacket_AmberBrown/ my pending version of this same model jacket with the Monarch MFG. inspired twist I am getting ready to build. If you notice, even the Japanese avoid double stitched French seam work.

    Cheers, Dave
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2019
    nkang and Pilot like this.
  6. Maverickson

    Maverickson Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    386
    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Hi,

    Yes, goatskin. The Japanese (like that seen referenced above) seem to be into horsehide which I also have available. I can do horsehide in three different colors. With goat hide I've got four completely different versions and many different colors of of goat hide. Sourced here in the USA, Italy & France & all vegetable tanned.

    That seen referenced comes from France.

    Cheers, Dave
     
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  7. Pilot

    Pilot Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,375
    Very nice! Great work! impressive!
     
  8. Skip

    Skip Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,335
    Location:
    Great Southern Land
    Nice work Dave
     
  9. Stony

    Stony Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,613
    Location:
    WA, USA
    Nice!

    I would like to see something similar in a shorter jacket if that's on the horizon.
     
  10. steve u.

    steve u. New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Dave,

    You have my complete attention...

    steve u.
     
  11. Maverickson

    Maverickson Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    386
    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Hi All,

    I'm happy to see that there is some interest! Although still in the developmental stages I recently found an inspirational photo of the look I am after. According to Grant by a fairly well renowned portrait artist Mike Disfamer. No doubt taken some time during or soon after WW-2.


    My preference being with the shorter lengthed of those two button up jackets seen in that attached photo. The difference being that my proposed jacket would be upgraded. Set up with button up cuffs and a scalloped shape yoke triple pleated back panel. In addition, all done the Monarch MFG. look with French seams complete. Much like the off set zip up I did for the Silver Surfer like seen below.


    As seen done on that referenced jacket's (size 40 w/ 25" to 25 1/2" LOA back panel) reverse view & exactly what to expect with that proposed button up. All an upgrade above and well beyond those Japanese made Freewheelers.

    Everything is in place for me to do this build. Currently, there is no hold up with expertise, materials or machinery. I just have to find the time.

    Cheers, Dave
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2019
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  12. nkang

    nkang Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    371
    Just saying, Dave, reading your posts is literally the "cure" (or curse) for me to get back into the leather jacket game. Nothing worked until I saw this jacket made by you, and now suddenly there are so many jackets I want (strangely ones made by you) but can't afford!
     
  13. steve u.

    steve u. New Member

    Messages:
    2
    I was finished buying any more jackets until I saw the Monarch 30's aviator style Dave was offering....^^^
    steve u.
     
    Maverickson likes this.
  14. johnwayne

    johnwayne Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,636
    Well, can't let reading this thread without giving compliments where compliments are due! That jacket looks top drawer I must say, superb Dave, I take my hat of to you.
     
  15. John Lever

    John Lever Moderator

    Messages:
    6,854
    Location:
    Southern England
    Looks amazing, I admire your skill and dedication.
     
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