New Good Wear A-2 1936 Werber Contract 10-23-12

[CBI]

Gents - what can I say? Simply lucky enough to have just received John’s second example of his new 1936 Werber A-2 pattern. This is a new contract/pattern for Good Wear. This is over the top: superb quality!, Slightly darker russet semi-aniline HH. Loads of different details, great 1930’s drape and feel. GREAT new premium knits. I have included “real” photos that John took of the jacket before he shipped it to me so you can see all of the details. This particular jacket is a tagged 46 but fits more like a 44. This is just the case with this particular jacket, not the pattern itself. IMO, it fits me perfectly. The sleeves will probably be shortened a little after I wear it this season but I am in no hurry.

Compared to say a 41 Werber (which I own) the shoulders have a slightly more vertical cut in the body and the sleeves are a little more formed. Very different pockets for sure and the stitching around the body seams is closer to the fold. Gotta tell you, the throat tab is cool, no metal clips sticking you in the chin!

I believe this contract with the premium knits and high end repro zipper will run a little higher than John's other A-2's. Check with The Man

Totally worth the wait, price, etc. This is the first new jacket I have gotten from John in about a year (and my 15th GW?) The continual refinement in quality is noticeable (and the jackets before were/are already amazing). Also, absolutely outstanding customer service. I know how busy John is but we communicated like I was his only customer.

John’s frantically completing orders but has run into a few snags both at work and outside work which can slow a small operation down easily. All to say, no worries -totally worth the wait.

This 36 Werber is one of his nicest contracts to date IMO (and I have owned a lot of them). Now, to wear the hell out of this one! Oh, the semi-aniline HH will develop some nice rub-off around the seams (not flaking) and the grain is already starting to appear!

Good Wear Link: http://www.goodwearleather.com/gw_werber_1936/

 

[ButteMT61]

OYE! Fantastic! Can you take some close-ups of the premium knits? Knowing you have ~15 GW, can you tell us the difference?
The jacket of course looks great. Congrat's and thanks for posting it up.

 

[CBI]

It just occurred to me (looking at the first photo) that the body has an almost A-1 "ish" shape to it - COOL

Damn - forgot to do some close ups of the knits. Check out the GW link for some proper "retail" shots

 

[ButteMT61]

It just occurred to me (looking at the first photo) that the body has an almost A-1 "ish" shape to it - COOL

Damn - forgot to do some close ups of the knits. Check out the GW link for some proper "retail" shots

Yeah, I was hoping to get your 2¢ on the differences...

What I love about this jacket is what makes the '38 Aero (Acme) so cool - the extra stitching on the sleeves and waist. It also looks a bit more roomy than the Aero - is that the case? And finally, what are those sunglasses you're wearing? Sorry - way too much coffee today
Just noticed this feature - what's up with that?? I love it.

 

[Persimmon]

John

Now that is a Werber

Fantastic looking.

I like that body fit and as you say the sleeves will shorten to perfection with a few wear wrinkles.

Its the perfect colour to match the knits

Now what is the story with the extra collar wrap.
An additional piece of material with a further stud right beside the collar stud

An unusual piece on an A2 that I have never seen before

 

[CBI]

I love the overall drape of this jacket which is a little more body contoured (IMO more 1930's) than many other contracts I can think of (nothing related to the actual size of the jacket). I would say Aeros are roomier but this has a "fits like a glove" feel to it. I like a high/well structured collar which is a Werber trademark and don't like collars that lay more flat on the collar bone/upper shoulder area. Some don't care for the high collar. The double button you see is for the throat tab. This contract does not have the traditional metal throat hook. Love the pocket shape and that the jacket is narrow (note the side view). Other contracts have some/many of these traits but this one has all of my favorite A-2 details in one. Is till love MANY of the contracts. I think Werbers are a little underrated. Something like the Aero 21996 has the same smallish openings (wrist/waist) but opens up a little more in the body/sleeves. At least IMO.

 

[CBI]

Ray-Ban "Round Aviators"

 

[767fo]

The pre-war details really set this contract apart from others. A real work of art!!! Enjoy

 

[blackrat2]

You gotta be happy with that
I think the size is good...as has been said see how the sleeves look once the jacket gets some wear
Enjoy

 

[crazyace]

WOW! Really nice. The attention to details is amazing and the hide looks like it should break in and wear really well. I bet it will look fantastic with a few years of wear. Enjoy!

 

[CBI]

thanks all, yes the sleeves if needed to be shortened eventually can be done here locally and professionally for about $15 so I am not worried. This jacket was a photo/test sample and was not made with my short arms in the measurements.

 

[Roughwear]

Thanks for posting these pics John and the link to the GW pics. The jacket is certainly impressive. The 1936 Werber contract was an interesting one in that there are examples of this contract with the hand sewn throat latch as on the 1933 Werber and others like yours with a leather throat latch. I wonder which was the most typical for this very rare contract?

 

[Anonymous]

very nice stuff
amazing jackets again
and the knits look very nice
congrats for your new jacket

is there a GW contract you don't have?

 

[ausreenactor]

VERY impressive!!

Couchy

 

[ButteMT61]

is there a GW contract you don't have?

The one JC hasn't made yet may be the only one :lol:

 

[Roughwear]

is there a GW contract you don't have?

The one JC hasn't made yet may be the only one :lol:

Seriously it's more than one contract he has yet to make.

1933 Weber
1937 Aero
1937 H.L.B Corp
1938 Werber

 

[ButteMT61]

I was being figurative, Andrew!

 

[Roughwear]

Yeh, I know that Scott ad that's why I used "Seriously"...

I think JC has replicated more original contracts than any other maker and he has made them on his own with just some admin support. This really is quite an achievement.

 

[ButteMT61]

Yeh, I know that Scott ad that's why I used "Seriously"...

I think JC has replicated more original contracts than any other maker and he has made them on his own with just some admin support. This really is quite an achievement.

Is the list above (yours) really the only ones left undone? Are there any possible missing contracts out there? I just enjoy learning. This one today has me floored - never saw anything with that throat latch and double snap.

 

[767fo]

Yeh, I know that Scott ad that's why I used "Seriously"...

I think JC has replicated more original contracts than any other maker and he has made them on his own with just some admin support. This really is quite an achievement.

I couldn't agree with you more Andrew. Not only is he a true artist, but in my opinion he is preserving history. There are no makers who put this much research in providing the most accurate versions of the military jackets he provides.