A
Anonymous
Guest
To me the RW collar has all the mystery and intrigue of the famous lady's smile. Curves and countercurves seem so simple yet are very difficult to capture in a repro jacket- many have tried- most fall short... Here's my favorite of all time- the quintessential RW look:
impossible to explain why it looks so good- the combination of sloping (not droopy) shoulders and those curves looks amazing IMO!
A couple more of my faves:
and:
All the jacket are Roughwears and yet look different. There was a discussion somewhere about clown collars- they did exist in WW2 but I think mostly due oversizing and/or photographer's arrangement:
Here are examples of modern reproduction jacket clown collars for real!
Eastman:
and RMNZ:
as you can see the photos are from JC's CD- I saw these particualr jackets in person and can vouch for the peculiar round, large unpleasant cone effect.
These guys were probably trying to copy the large Roughwear collars that are seen on some jackets- here's a 44 1401p original that had such a large collar:
The problem is that just making a big round-shaped collar just doesn't quite cut it (and using smooth couch leather didn't help either)...
IMO (and I can see you guys rolling your eyes) today there is one repro maker who captures the RW collar far better than anyone up to this point- of course I'm
talking aout Goodwear. Especially now John's pattern's "get" the RW collar and therefore look the most realistic when worn.
To me this GW jacket:
looks an awful like this jacket belonging to a famous general:
This isn't necessarily the dramatic high collared RW of my first picture but it the most common and more subtle RW look as illustrated here:
Anyway- my point is that the RW collar is large often and can frame the face more than other jackets like Dubows and Werbers which have either lower or smaller collars. Example:
My whole jacket obsession now has boiled down to the RW and its collar- I've studied every nuance and have tried to figure out it's little secrets. Goodwear's patterns are as close as you can get in 2011-
I recently sold a GW 27752 which had that perfect combination of big curvy collar and lively epaulets and grainy horsehide leather- I regret that a little but now I have a GW goatskin 18091 which is every bit as fantastic.
No one else come close at this point- Eastman has made some improvements in leather but still hasn't got a good pattern- also they doggedly continue to make the same mistakes in pocket height and windflap width throughout all their jackets!. RMNZ and the Japanese also try but have major failures in their RW patterns (pocket flaps, body shape among other things).
Last- another period photo which reminds me of why I like RWs...
impossible to explain why it looks so good- the combination of sloping (not droopy) shoulders and those curves looks amazing IMO!
A couple more of my faves:
and:
All the jacket are Roughwears and yet look different. There was a discussion somewhere about clown collars- they did exist in WW2 but I think mostly due oversizing and/or photographer's arrangement:
Here are examples of modern reproduction jacket clown collars for real!
Eastman:
and RMNZ:
as you can see the photos are from JC's CD- I saw these particualr jackets in person and can vouch for the peculiar round, large unpleasant cone effect.
These guys were probably trying to copy the large Roughwear collars that are seen on some jackets- here's a 44 1401p original that had such a large collar:
The problem is that just making a big round-shaped collar just doesn't quite cut it (and using smooth couch leather didn't help either)...
IMO (and I can see you guys rolling your eyes) today there is one repro maker who captures the RW collar far better than anyone up to this point- of course I'm
talking aout Goodwear. Especially now John's pattern's "get" the RW collar and therefore look the most realistic when worn.
To me this GW jacket:
looks an awful like this jacket belonging to a famous general:
This isn't necessarily the dramatic high collared RW of my first picture but it the most common and more subtle RW look as illustrated here:
Anyway- my point is that the RW collar is large often and can frame the face more than other jackets like Dubows and Werbers which have either lower or smaller collars. Example:
My whole jacket obsession now has boiled down to the RW and its collar- I've studied every nuance and have tried to figure out it's little secrets. Goodwear's patterns are as close as you can get in 2011-
I recently sold a GW 27752 which had that perfect combination of big curvy collar and lively epaulets and grainy horsehide leather- I regret that a little but now I have a GW goatskin 18091 which is every bit as fantastic.
No one else come close at this point- Eastman has made some improvements in leather but still hasn't got a good pattern- also they doggedly continue to make the same mistakes in pocket height and windflap width throughout all their jackets!. RMNZ and the Japanese also try but have major failures in their RW patterns (pocket flaps, body shape among other things).
Last- another period photo which reminds me of why I like RWs...
