Levi’s Vintage

Discussion in 'Related Gear' started by blackrat2, Nov 22, 2017.

  1. stanier

    stanier Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    596
    Location:
    Bedfordshire, UK
    From memory Dave they (Levi’s) got very upset with anyone using the v shaped arc design and red tab. The focus was the Japanese repro companies where the copyright etc laws I understand are different. That’s why, for example, today’s Sugar Cane ‘47’s don’t have arc’s and the red tab, nor any of the Sugar Cane brand. From what I’ve read even customs teams in various countries were alerted to detain offending denim being brought in by denim purchasers. There are some Japanese companies today still producing with an arc influenced design and red tabs but I’d say they’re very niche and “officially” Japan only. Strangely, IMO, redline selvedge wasn’t included though that maybe because Levi’s had already given up on that.

    Some will say (and did) good on Levi’s for protecting their brand. IMHO, that would have been fine if they’d made (and they should have been able to if anyone could) the most perfect vintage Levi reproductions in existence, which almost certainly would have shut down the copiers anyway, but they took a different approach. And whilst I love LVC they’ve not been without issues. Shallow and weak pocket bags, poorly rendered or incorrect arcs, wrong coloured and composition weave thread and fiddled with patterns to start.

    And anyway, in reality the arc design wasn’t a Levi only thing. Go back far enough and Lee and others used the same.

    Sorry, slightly off course giving my personal opinion there, but I think I’ve given you the gist of it. There are undoubtedly folks who know more of the detail than I do.

    If Levi’s come after you for that pair you’re making I suggest you and all our American cousins dig dip into your Boston tea party DNA!

    Cheers

    Chris
     
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  2. dmar836

    dmar836 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,324
    Location:
    Kansas, USA
    LOL. Yeah I have no fear there! It's funny these will be most unlike Levis in cut but they appear to have let their fit and cut style go long ago defending, as you outlined, only their distinctive markers.
    I talked with a guy about industrial machine adjustments years ago on another forum and he worked for a factory that sewed for all sorts of companies. Levis was one of them. The runs were inconsistent so they were just the occasional hired hands. I suspect such subcontracting of machinists, even if kept onshore, is why the quality has been all over the place. In refining this pattern a bit I compared some old pairs of mine. Same pattern and size pairs were up to 1/2" different in areas.

    Dave
     
  3. stanier

    stanier Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    596
    Location:
    Bedfordshire, UK
    Btw Dave talking of tea parties and things, this week I got messaged with a pic I wouldn’t have believed was a possibility let alone happened if I hadn’t seen it with my own eyes. The future Queen Elizabeth and Prince Phillip at a hoedown in 1951! It occurred to me that the denim Prince Phillip is wearing looks a lot like that Grant posted earlier. Btw, to folk other than Dave, I just thought this is an interesting pic to share, not meant to be political in any way so to the world in general, let’s not go there please!

    B73BF30F-813E-41EB-9BFD-C6574B712CD0.jpeg
     
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  4. dmar836

    dmar836 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,324
    Location:
    Kansas, USA
    One more pair and more learned for my pattern. I'm saving the selvedge denim for when I'm happy with the pattern. Until then I'll just keep wearing them.
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    Last edited: Jan 26, 2018
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  5. EmergencyIan

    EmergencyIan Active Member

    ^ Very impressive, Dave!

    - Ian
     
  6. CBI

    CBI Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,828
    wow - great work!!!!!!
     
  7. dmar836

    dmar836 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,324
    Location:
    Kansas, USA
    Thanks fellas. Started another pair as I don't like a blip in that pattern. This is the hard part - drafting patterns yourself with no formal training. At least it's learning.
    I think I'll start another thread for them.
    Dave
     
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