Jacket number 4 is done

[fishmeok]

I finally finished the next jacket. I made a different pattern for this one, based more on an A-2, essentially a Dubow body (one pice back, two pice arms) with narrow arms. I noticed that the A-2 patterns have a different shoulder cut than the civi jacket I originally used. In an A-2 the shoulder seam slopes toward the back, leaving the epaulet square on the shoulder. On my other pattern the shoulder seam is straight. It's a subtle difference, but I like the A-2 shoulder better. Unfortunately I tried to speed things up a bit and complete more steps at once, but that was a mistake and I ended up with the pockets and inner leather strips along the zipper being slightly off from each other. I was trying to make a 46-48, but I misjudged the final size and this is more like a small 44/42 long. Except for the items mentioned above I'm pretty happy with this one, I really like the cut and the pointy collar/pocket flaps (again loosly based on the Dubow).I kind of like the slightly off pockets too, adds a bit of character to the jacket. I'll be putting this one up for sale, I can't zip it up and still breathe...
Cheers
Mark

 

[Anonymous]

Nice work that man !!

J.C. check your six buddy, you got someone on your tail !!!!!!!

Dave

 

[John Lever]

I wish I was clever enough to do work like that.

 

[dadgad]

nice job...hats off.

 

[airfrogusmc]

Nice job!!!

 

[Roughwear]

Mark, they get better each time. Have you considered making your next jacket with a conventional A4 windflap and collar snaps?

 

[dujardin]

Nice work that man !!

J.C. check your six buddy, you got someone on your tail !!!!!!!

Dave

well said,
it's good to have two specialist on the forum
good work
congrats

byeeeeeeeeee marcel

 

[Curahee]

Awesome work outstanding, I'm deeply impressed. Have you considered making more ? and if so have you
thought of name to put on the label ?.
Best thing there's no nitpicking or anything to wory about, since you have your own style and not just copying
an existing maker. Again great looking jacket

 

[fishmeok]

Thanks everybody. Each of the three jackets I have made keep drifting closer and closer to being an A-2, if I make another like this it's going to have a windflap, be basically my version of a Dubow. I have been shying away from A-2 copies 'cause I enjoy adding my own touches to the jackets- besides, John already has them perfected. The biggest thing I need to gain more experience with is pattern making. I've been trying to make each of these jackets a 46, but they end up smaller. The shoulders, etc. are right, but since the 44-46 are so close it's easy to make the chest just an inch too small, etc. and I have been trying very hard to maintain the period cut and fit- very easy to go too small. Just something I need to practice more.

My next jacket is going to be an ANJ-3. I have a rotted out size 46 M-422A I am taking apart and making a pattern out of, then I will add a windflap, Dubow collar, etc.

I need to talk to John about labels, but I think something like this would be the ticket. Particularily since it's from my city. Probably have to change it to something like "avia-wear" or "avro-wear" (unless AVRO disagrees).
Cheers
Mark

 

[rich]

I wish I was clever enough to do work like that.

Me too, I wouldn't know where to start.

A.V. Roe merged with Hawker Siddeley in the 60's Mark and the famous Avro name ceased to be. Don't know if there are issues with redundant company names though..........

 

[asiamiles]

My next jacket is going to be an ANJ-3. I have a rotted out size 46 M-422A I am taking apart and making a pattern out of, then I will add a windflap, Dubow collar, etc.

Wow, that bi-swing back looks like it could be tricky to do correctly.

 

[fishmeok]

It's not that bad, actually. The back is one piece with the bi-swing part folded under itself and them sewed to an outer back piece that goes to the arms and front panel.
Biggest difference is that I am copying exactly an existing jacket, piece for piece and in the correct size. Should help me get a few things straightened out.
Cheers
Mark

 

[asiamiles]

Good luck with it. A quality ANJ3 is a jacket a few on here might be in the market for, since none of the major high-end players produce one and originals are somewhat scarce.

 

[SpeednAngels]

My hat off to you.. That is really awesome.. what kind of a Singer are you
usiung heavy duty or medium push! Good hunting on the AnJ3

 

[fishmeok]

I have a '30's vintage Singer industrial, but i really need to upgrade.

So I had some friends try this thing on to see if I could figure out the correct size. Unfortunately even a size 42 binds the arms when you raise them up and straight out forward. So I resorted to my favorite altering tool: the washing machine. Soaked the jacket then spun dry it. Put the wet jacket on (cold!) and did some stretches, moved some furniture, amused my infant son by waving my arms around and grimacing... Now it fits the way I intended it to in the beginning, just like my Goodwear Dubow. I have room in the chest, the arms do not bind up, and the grain has popped like a mofo in the sleeves. The fit is trim but roomy, just enough room for a wool shirt or light sweater. This is by far my favorite out of the three I have made, if I didn't need the money to buy more hides I would be keeping it.
Cheers
Mark

BTW I pulled my neck out of joint stretching this thing, be warned- jackets can be hazardous to your health...

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Mark Jeff here NY re your machine check out this ,when you go on the home page of the Eastman site play the review of the DVD there offering there using your machine to make a shearling jacket .Also I have a whole hide of green leather about 2-3 oz do you want to try making an A1 let me know I will send it to you.Dont give up on the model 78 if Eastman is still using them ,I am sure a good sewing machine mechanic can pinpoint the problems and remedy them ,this machine was so good Consew copied it in the 60s .Rgds Jeff .

 

[fishmeok]

Hi Mark Jeff here NY re your machine check out this ,when you go on the home page of the Eastman site play the review of the DVD there offering there using your machine to make a shearling jacket .Also I have a whole hide of green leather about 2-3 oz do you want to try making an A1 let me know I will send it to you.Dont give up on the model 78 if Eastman is still using them ,I am sure a good sewing machine mechanic can pinpoint the problems and remedy them ,this machine was so good Consew copied it in the 60s .Rgds Jeff .

My biggest problem with the 78-3 is no reverse- I already upgraded my needle to 110/18 instead of the hard to find 16X99 (re-time the needlebar), but I am going to have to check out that video. I had a hell of a time trying to sew my B-3 on this thing, the presser lift is too low. It has some definite advantages, like the long arm, but I think I would do better with a 111W155, 211, or Consew 225/255 series.

I would love to try an A-1, but I need to figure out how to best sew buttonholes, etc. I will be figuring some of this out with the M-422A based ANJ-3 I am working on now. It's just slow going...
Cheers
Mark

 

[jack aranda]

I purchased it. Mark4 arrived a couple of days ago. Putting it on was like shaking hands with an old friend. This jacket has that ineffable something that says "leather jacket"--the feel, the fit, the way I feel in it. It's right. You guys know what I mean. If you look for them, you'll find flaws. Yep. And, with the jacket, too.

And, the Final, the Absolute and Supreme Benediction: my wife likes it a lot, and thinks I did well to buy it. How often do we get that?

Here are some pics of me wearing Mark4. The detail shots are already posted in this thread. I'm not much of detail guy, anyway. I'm just going to wear this puppy and enjoy it a long time.

 

[better duck]

I purchased it. Mark4 arrived a couple of days ago. Putting it on was like shaking hands with an old friend.

Looks good on you! Enjoy it!

 

[dujardin]

Mark,

you deed a splendid work....

Johnnnnnnnnn check your sixxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

byeeeeeeeee marcellllllllllllllllll