Goodwear SAT A2 and Original California Ventura Review

[alfanator]

Here are the reviews as promised from my visit to John Chapman @ Goodwear last week.

SAT
GW's first prototype of this jacket in Seal Brown HH.

Leather
The leather is simply beautiful, i had a stack of new GW jackets in front of me and this color and texture resonated with me the most. It is thick and has a deep moist color, although it is a little squeaky.

Picture below is after about a week of wear and some HWT to tighten the waist and streach the shoulders. It is already taking shape and breaking in nicely. Suprisingly soft for how thick the leather is.

Fit
This is a size 46 and it is just about right. I have a 43 chest and 33 waist, stand about 5'8 and weigh 175 lbs. I followed JC's instructions to HWT the jacket to shrink the waist and streach the shoulders for greater movement. Worked out fine. Like Redwing boots, I expect the jacket to fit better the more i wear it. Currently layering with a wool sweater for the winter, pics are with just a shirt. It fits like a sports coat so i will not be doing gymnastics in it. As opposed to the G1 that fits more like a parka which is much easier to move around in.

Construction
Quality is top notch and JC's passion for his craft shows throughout. I love getting stuff from local Seattle craftsmen and getting to know the maker. JC is a super nice guy that is truly passionate about his craft.

Details
I am not a A2 collector so could not point to all the fine details of the SAT jacket, but the pocket buttons are different from other A2s and easy to spot. I'd prefer to have an original SAT but doubt that i would be able to find a wearable original SAT in my size, so this repro will have to do till then

Verdict
Great quality, fit requires some break-in depending on your body style, superb leather and great guy to do business with.

Here are a coule of pictures.

John sent me these pics of original SATs and him wearing the jacket last year.

California Ventura
This jacket is the original California Ventura JC used to model his agains, it needs lots of restoration, the cotton threads have rotted away but the leather and metal are in good condition. My tailor is taking it completely apart and resewing the entire jacket and relining it with gaberdine. Hope he will not charge too much for the work. Will post the completed restoration in another thread.

[/QUOTE]

 

[Cliff]

That SAT looks amazing and appears to be a really good fit on you. I love the look of that heavy leather. I have just ordered a "King of the Road " motorcycle jacket from Aero but when funds permit that is a "must have" ! Enjoy breaking it in !

cheers
Cliff

 

[John Lever]

Cliff,
What about the Roadstar from Eastman ?

 

[better duck]

That SAT looks amazing

Totally agree

and appears to be a really good fit on you.

Sorry, I don't agree: it looks a tad too large on you, sorry to say. Compare it to the way it fit JC himself. Of course, this is all down to personal preference now, as it was to the quartermasters whim then, But I'd downsize a bit.....

I love the look of that heavy leather.

 

[asiamiles]

Sorry, I don't agree: it looks a tad too large on you, sorry to say. Compare it to the way it fit JC himself. Of course, this is all down to personal preference now, as it was to the quartermasters whim then, But I'd downsize a bit.....

I sort of agree. The jacket looks a tad small on John, and a bit large on alfanator though it seems consistent with the originals which look to blouse out at the waist. To me the leather looks too thick/heavy for the style of jacket; I would have thought a lightweight hh would be required for the SAT, which is a sort of mid-point between the A-1 and the A-2.

 

[alfanator]

I do think it is a little large around the waist, consistent with the originals pictured i guess. Trouble is the chest and arms fit great and a smaller size would likely be too restrictive. I did some more targeted HWT to the wasit area last night and it has shurnk down quite a bit more this morning, will most some pics later.

I have a couple of original size 42s and will be selling those because they are simply too tight in the chest area for comfort. Maybe I am a G1 sort of guy

 

[Weasel_Loader]

I think the SAT doesn't look too bad as far as fit goes. Plenty of pre-war photos showing similar fit. Also remember that this was JCs prototype SAT.

 

[alfanator]

Here it is after HWT number 2 targeted at waist area per JC's directions. ignore the rain drops on the shoulder, i just came in from the cold rain.

 

[Cliff]

Cliff,
What about the Roadstar from Eastman ?

I like the Roadstar John, but Gary warns in his marketing blurb that it is cut to fit the tradional male triangular shape of broad shoulders and slim waist ie a fit athletic 18+ year old . Sadly I waved goodbye to that shape around 20 years ago !!! :roll:

 

[Cliff]

That SAT looks amazing

Totally agree

and appears to be a really good fit on you.

Sorry, I don't agree: it looks a tad too large on you, sorry to say. Compare it to the way it fit JC himself. Of course, this is all down to personal preference now, as it was to the quartermasters whim then, But I'd downsize a bit.....

I love the look of that heavy leather.

I always favour a looser fit of my A2s than most here as I am not shaped like a 1940s young airman but I thought the fit of JCs SAT resembled perfectly the fit of the vintage photographs, particularly the first two from the left.

cheers
cliff

 

[zoomer]

I always favour a looser fit of my A2s than most here as I am not shaped like a 1940s young airman but I thought the fit of JCs SAT resembled perfectly the fit of the vintage photographs, particularly the first two from the left.

I hate to be a nut on the topic, but those airmen are neither 1940s nor are they all that young!

I agree the Security would be easier on those of us who aren't perfect physical specimens, but note that all the rest of the 1930s A-2 contracts were much leaner cut thru the waist, so there may have been some complaints from the Air Corps even then.

The SAT wasn't a typical 30s A-2 by any means - really a first draft of a garment that later became a classic.

 

[Weasel_Loader]

Completly agree Zoomer. The SAT is very different in cut in the waist than later Werbers and Aeros from the mid-late 30s.

 

[asiamiles]

Here it is after HWT number 2 targeted at waist area per JC's directions. ignore the rain drops on the shoulder, i just came in from the cold rain.

I think the fit is fine. Sure, it could be a bit trimmer but then it probably wouldn't be a SAT so would defeat the object; the fit is definitely consistent with those period photos. I still think the leather is too thick, and am reminded of what John Lever said about the horsehide on the Buzz A-1 not being suitable for the design. I'm not sure here if John has used a heavier hh than normal or if the design requires a lighter hide.

 

[Jaguar46]

Pardon my ignorance but what is a SAT? Is this an acronym? A company?

 

[deeb7]

Pardon my ignorance but what is a SAT? Is this an acronym? A company?

Security Sportswear, the first A-2 contract. Their civilian flight jacket label was Security Aviation Togs, so SAT.

 

[Roughwear]

Here it is after HWT number 2 targeted at waist area per JC's directions. ignore the rain drops on the shoulder, i just came in from the cold rain.

I think the fit is fine. Sure, it could be a bit trimmer but then it probably wouldn't be a SAT so would defeat the object; the fit is definitely consistent with those period photos. I still think the leather is too thick, and am reminded of what John Lever said about the horsehide on the Buzz A-1 not being suitable for the design. I'm not sure here if John has used a heavier hh than normal or if the design requires a lighter hide.

I would agree with you about the thickness of the leather. I understand this is not an issue with JC's production models.

 

[greyhound52]

I have the production SAT and the HH IMO is perfect. Exact same HH as used on the RMJ (this is what John told me). Not too thick or heavy. I have noticed that John improves greatly from the prototype to actual production.

 

[asiamiles]

I would agree with you about the thickness of the leather. I understand this is not an issue with JC's production models.

Have you ordered one Andrew?

 

[Roughwear]

Yes, I have Miles. It should be ready in a few weeks.

 

[asiamiles]

Look forward to your review.