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Denim jacket, any suggestions ?

Kermit3D

Well-Known Member
I'm in the mood for a denim jacket. :)
I don't know much about it... but I understand that there are historically 3 types of jackets (for the Levis brand):
- Type 1 (506XX appeared in 1936)
- Type 2 (507XX appeared in 1953)
- Type 3 (557XX or "trucker jacket" appeared in 1962).

veste-levis-histoire.jpg


I have a slight preference for types 1 and 2 and am looking for a quality jacket with a fairly (reasonably) heavy cotton. There are a lot of different brands offering nice jackets... I'm not sure which way to go.
I'm open to suggestions and sharing of experience.
 

blackrat2

Well-Known Member
Hi, have a look at TCB denim, they do some cracking denim jackets, I went for there WW2 jacket, has some unique features for that era
There denim has some great fades, I have posted pics in the denim thread
Depending on your size you might get a T seam …think that’s from 42/44 upwards or smaller just a single back panel
I have to say depending on where you purchase get the jacket measured as there sizing is a little “odd”
 

mulceber

Moderator
I don't have much to contribute, since, while I'm a denim-head, I pretty much stick to jeans. My only thought would be, if you're going for a denim jacket, go all out: find some Japanese brand with a kickass denim that fades beautifully and quickly. My vote would be Full Count - @Nnatalie has a pair of their jeans in Zimbabwe cotton and the fades have been beautiful, even though she only got them last Christmas:
IMG_8972.jpeg


Full Count would also be nice because they're a member of the Osaka 5, and they're really into vintage fits. Momotaro would be great for this too, although a bit more modern.
 

CBI

Well-Known Member
yes but be careful because those fades are the result of indigo dye rubbing OFF on other things like.............your furniture, car seats, walls, etc. Love the look but....................
 

Kermit3D

Well-Known Member
Hi, have a look at TCB denim, they do some cracking denim jackets, I went for there WW2 jacket, has some unique features for that era
There denim has some great fades, I have posted pics in the denim thread
Depending on your size you might get a T seam …think that’s from 42/44 upwards or smaller just a single back panel
I have to say depending on where you purchase get the jacket measured as there sizing is a little “odd”

Hi blackrat2,
I didn't know TCB, great discovery! It's exactly what I'm looking for... a quality denim jacket, from what I read, it's cotton from Zimbabwe, for a very decent price. They seem to have some historical accuracy (although I don't know much about it), and that's important to me.
Frankly, it sounds great!

I can't decide between type 1 (40's) and type 2 (50's)...
How do you like the fit of the 40's you own? I don't want a jacket that's too long, and not too loose either.

Thank you so much for this discovery

I don't have much to contribute, since, while I'm a denim-head, I pretty much stick to jeans. My only thought would be, if you're going for a denim jacket, go all out: find some Japanese brand with a kickass denim that fades beautifully and quickly. My vote would be Full Count - @Nnatalie has a pair of their jeans in Zimbabwe cotton and the fades have been beautiful, even though she only got them last Christmas:
View attachment 115129

Full Count would also be nice because they're a member of the Osaka 5, and they're really into vintage fits. Momotaro would be great for this too, although a bit more modern.

Momotaro makes exceptional denim. But I must admit they're expensive, and I don't know if I'm ready to pay the price yet.
It would probably be perfect for a type 2 jacket. But I confess to being seduced by the historical aspect of a type 1 ww2 jacket (a single breast pocket without the flap).

I think Conners Sewing makes a pretty fine type 1

I also discovered the Conners Sewin brand.
It's wonderful ! ... but it's expensive. :D
 

blackrat2

Well-Known Member
Hey Kermit, I had the type 2 and sold it on along with an original Levis type 2 as I prefer the length and cut of the type 1, it’s a smidge longer than a 2 which to be honest sits better with newer denims
I do pair it up with the LVC 44’s and the S40 jeans by TCB, the TCB jeans have a higher waist than the Levis equivalent…and it was when wearing the Levis 44’s I felt that the type 2 was to short
The S40’s jacket is really nice in shape and size and has unique features that set it apart from other Type 1’s, I believe TCB do both type 1’s if you prefer a pocket flap for example.
The denim is really nice and you can get it from Denimio , TCB and if UK based Son of Stag, personally went through Denimio
I’ve washed it couple times now and the S40 jeans once , the fades are great for sure
 

mulceber

Moderator
Just a final thought: I think if you go with anyone using Zimbabwe Cotton, you'll be in great hands - that includes TCB, Momotaro and Full Count. For some reason, the cotton that comes from that country is both very strong and unusually soft. It'll make a nice jacket.
 

Kermit3D

Well-Known Member
Just a final thought: I think if you go with anyone using Zimbabwe Cotton, you'll be in great hands - that includes TCB, Momotaro and Full Count. For some reason, the cotton that comes from that country is both very strong and unusually soft. It'll make a nice jacket.

Yes, I think you can't go wrong with Zimbabwe cotton. I did quite a bit of research last night on the different denim brands. TCB seems to be an excellent value for money.
I'm starting to realize the dimension of denim science... there are some really sharp guys (and gals) out there ! I'm starting from (almost) zero and I feel like I've got tones of things to learn, but it's really interesting.
 

blackrat2

Well-Known Member
Jump on supertalk/superfuture…is denim biased group..you could find images of various jeans and if you search TCB S40’s contest there are pages of images of TCB denim
 

CombatWombat

Well-Known Member
I haven't been into denim since I was a young teen but I do remember a small company out of Arizona made some fantastic "Wild West" denim pants and jackets.
I was more a HBT high waisted "brakeman" pants (has a adjustable buckle on the back and reinforced legs to just below the knee)
The only thing I kept was a engineers coat that definitely had a steampunk vibe to it.....I'll root around the house and see if I still have it
 
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