Comparison of Good Wear single button A-1 and ELC 0.50 A-1

[Dr H]

A quick comparison of the two Type A-1 jackets that I have from GW (the early 20s test jacket) and ELC (a reissue .50 Cal A-1 based on the original in Gary Eastman's collection).

Image of both Type A-1 jackets buttoned (GW on the left, ELC on the right).

Similar view of the rear of the jackets.

Some significant differences in the patterns (notably the buttons versus snaps, and the pocket sizes, flaps and positioning).

The GW sleeves are usually three-piece, inset/rotated with triple stitched raw seams; ELC have two-piece, in line, rolled seams.

GW has paler/mustard lining, double stitched hanger loop, compared with ELC darker brown lining.

Different heights in collar knit apparent (and treatment of box stitching to hanger loop).

Fully buttoned front and rear.

In my opinion, the only weakness of the ELC pattern is in the collar knit height, which hinders the collar from falling properly. In contrast, the depth and thickness of the GW collar makes this neater in use.

It's my intention to replace the current collar on the .50 cal with a pattern based on the GW, but using the ELC knit material. Bit of a project, but ultimately very worthwhile as it'll make such an improvement to the lay of the collar and the overall appearance of the jacket.

The difference in the hides is remarkable. The GW cape is wearing quickly at friction points, becoming paler and flattening grain. The .50cal simply looks very old and worn right out of the box.

The patterns offer a great contrast - I'm using the GW for work now that it's a little warmer. It's dressier and there's a little more room for a little layering. The ELC is more casual and is grand with jeans in the evening.

 

[Skip]

Re: Comparison of Good Wear single button A-1 and ELC 0.50 A

Great comparison, quite a difference in the hides. Besides the GW being slightly roomier and the collar much difference when there on?

 

[PaulGT3]

Re: Comparison of Good Wear single button A-1 and ELC 0.50 A

NICE Display Doc. I learned alot about a jacket that I know nothing about.

 

[CBI]

Re: Comparison of Good Wear single button A-1 and ELC 0.50 A

both look great - enjoy!!!

 

[Dr H]

Re: Comparison of Good Wear single button A-1 and ELC 0.50 A

Great comparison, quite a difference in the hides. Besides the GW being slightly roomier and the collar much difference when there on?

Difficult to discuss solely in terms of the pattern Matt as the GW is a 46 (test jacket) and the ELC is a 44. However, I have treated the GW with warm water to draw in the small of the back and arms (as well as having had the sleeves shortened). OTOH, the ELC is my natural size and fits perfectly out of the box (even down to the sleeves). I don't know this one was a reissue, but I suspect because of the short arms.

I'll weigh the jackets, but the GW 'feels' a touch heavier jacket in use (not by a lot - it's not an LW/Aero HH). The ELC wears much more like a leather sleeved sweater, but this could simply be down to the slight difference in sizes.

The GW is roomier in the sleeve tops/armholes, but the ELC is not tight/uncomfortable.

Wrist knits on both feel similar - marginally tighter on the GW. The waist knit is thicker on the GW, but no great difference. Big difference in collar knit means that I wear the collar differently, but I'll work on that.

The buttons on the GW are larger (diameter/depth) than the ELC, which makes them slightly clumsier to use, but I've discussed this with John and smaller buttons with more rounded edges are on the cards.

ELC feels slightly roomier across the yoke, but not a big difference. Bit nippier through the shoulders, but it's a 44 rather than a 46.

The finish of the .50 cal encourages me to be rougher with it. Again, it's not a heavy chrome tanned FQHH, thankfully, but it does mean that I'm not going to be precious with it, which suits me well. I'm not Bevan, but I am relatively hard on my repro jackets as they get worn a lot rather than being worn little and rotated, etc.

This is the best GW pattern that I've worn (this is my fourth) in a cockpit I'd prefer two buttons on the collar, although for my purposes a single button looks better. In the regular ELC cape (or the aged) it would be simply stunning. It's a very high quality jacket.
This is the best hide that I've seen on an ELC A-1 (again, this is my fourth). The pattern never varies, but the shorter sleeves on this one are a real bonus. With the collar knit modified (I've contacted ELC), this would/will be the most convincing Type A-1 replica that I've seen to date.
Cheers
Ian

 

[Dr H]

Re: Comparison of Good Wear single button A-1 and ELC 0.50 A

...on reflection this is my fifth GW A-1. :shock:
I do go through them...

 

[John Lever]

Re: Comparison of Good Wear single button A-1 and ELC 0.50 A

The ELC TW treatment looks subtle and attractive,quite similar to the way my LVC Menlo jacket has been buffed and bruised rather than abraded.
Ian, the BIG question, is the search over ?

 

[Dr H]

Re: Comparison of Good Wear single button A-1 and ELC 0.50 A

Yes John, it's official! :lol:
Just need to sort out the collar, but with a knit, patience and a thimble it's feasible.

 

[Marv]

Re: Comparison of Good Wear single button A-1 and ELC 0.50 A

Excellent review Ian, both jackets look fantastic and I am quite impressed with the timeworn finish on the ELC as it has been a bit ropey in the past on jackets I have seen but this looks very authentic and quite subtle, very similar to the timeworn finish on my 2009 Pearl Harbor A2.

Not having owned an A1 yet but having tried one on at Duxford last year, I was suitably impressed with the ELC jacket and I do think one will reside in my collection at some point in the near future.

I must say they do look good but even better on than off so it's great that reviews like this can push a superb jacket that sometimes takes a backseat to the more famous A2.

 

[Dr H]

Re: Comparison of Good Wear single button A-1 and ELC 0.50 A

Thanks Paul

I was initially very skeptical of the both hides and, whilst the GW cape has grown on me a fair bit, it's not my favourite. It gets better with age and it's a better colour than some that I've had in the past; the grain is initially off putting in my eyes and it needs wear to calm it down. The pattern is extremely well executed and a very comfortable jacket for daily wear.

Alan (Persimmon) drew my attention to the .50 Cal Type A-1 following Duxford and he posted images that left me cold - as Alan said at the time, it looked 'bleached out and lifeless'. The prototype needed a lot of work and over the past few months various prototype finishes have been sold on the re-issue site, but none in my size.

The official images on the site: http://www.eastmanleather.com/product_i ... cts_id=244 still don't come close to the latest incarnation of the finish, which is much more subtle. This is undeniably the most authentic looking artificially 'aged' hide that I've had on a repro jacket (just shading it ahead of the HWT Perry 16175-P that I almost bought from Steve (Cobblers), which was just marginally too snug).

It is superb.

Note, if you're an FL reader, I am not a shill, buyer, mate or mouthpiece of/for either outfit. :roll:

 

[Persimmon]

Re: Comparison of Good Wear single button A-1 and ELC 0.50 A

Ian
Thanks for the comparision.
For my money the Eastman has it.
Excellent comparision images

I look forward to your collar adjustment on the 50 Cal.
You never seem to stop tinkering though.

Perhaps we need to call you the Tinker Man (Doc) !!

 

[Dr H]

Re: Comparison of Good Wear single button A-1 and ELC 0.50 A

Tinker...that's about right (even down to the beret) :ugeek:
http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m5dmq ... o1_400.jpg
If I can sort out this collar, that'll be it...promise :lol:

 

[Dr H]

Re: Comparison of Good Wear single button A-1 and ELC 0.50 A

John Chapman has just been in touch. Apparently, the knits on the GW A-1 are not from RMNZ (he had a single shipment from them back in 2009), but these knits are from a USA company, and superior to the Japanese product in his view (stronger and a tighter weave).

 

[Rutger]

Re: Comparison of Good Wear single button A-1 and ELC 0.50 A

That's an excellent comparing review.
I thought ELC had been making horse A1's for a while? Or was it Findus cape? If this one is cape, and it appears so to me, it sure has a different look from the one I bought from you like 2 years ago.
But wow, the A1 has a certain style that the iconic A2 lacks.
I have been considering ordering an A1 in the US, but even from these pics I still think I would prefer the lesser grainy one. Just a matter of personal taste of course.

 

[Dr H]

Re: Comparison of Good Wear single button A-1 and ELC 0.50 A

Thanks Rutger.

The ELC A-1 that I sold you is the 'regular' capeskin ELC A-1, this is the .50 cal capeskin (in the ELC 'Timeworn' finish, http://www.eastmanleather.com/time_worn.php), not horse (Findus or otherwise!). I don't think that ELC have offered the A-1 in horse for quite a while.

The cape of this jacket would have started out looking like yours before it was presumably washed/treated with organic solvents/burnished/abraided.

 

[Rutger]

Re: Comparison of Good Wear single button A-1 and ELC 0.50 A

Ah Ian, would you care to give me/us the basic measurements of the ELC?
p-p, arm,shoulders, back length incl. waist knit, front length. I feel it might be time to sell on my current A1 which is a bit tight and may help fund a new one from ELC.

 

[Dr H]

Re: Comparison of Good Wear single button A-1 and ELC 0.50 A

Sure Rutger.

Pit to pit 24"
Back length 25"
Front length 24"
Shoulders 19"
Sleeves 24.5"

Cheers
Ian

 

[Doug C]

Re: Comparison of Good Wear single button A-1 and ELC 0.50 A

The A1 I had custom made by US Authentic several years back had a collar that always annoyed me because it was just that little bit too tall. I usually prefer the collar left standing (part of the A1's charm IMO) and the taller collar made this a little silly looking. On the other hand, the horsehide A1 I had from Lost Worlds had a somewhat short collar (looks like the one on your ELC) and I quite liked it.. it worked for the popped collar look. NIce jackets you have though and a great comparison! ~ Doug

 

[Dr H]

Re: Comparison of Good Wear single button A-1 and ELC 0.50 A

Yes Doug, there's no accounting for taste!
I like to wear the A-1 with the top button undone and collar folded (a couple of buttons undone if it's warmer).
On the other hand if it turns cold/windy I like to be able to turn it up and button the collar knit. The GW pattern does that well (slight curve on the pattern - sounding more and more like Jeff, Rotenhahn- means that it sits comfortably under the jaw).
That's what I'm aiming for in the ELC - all the examples that I've had have seemed short (compared with the depth of the collar on Gary's original G&F A-1),
Cheers
Ian

 

[Doug C]

Re: Comparison of Good Wear single button A-1 and ELC 0.50 A

...On the other hand if it turns cold/windy I like to be able to turn it up and button the collar knit.
Ian

Yep, now that is true.. the taller collars sure are nicer on the colder days, while fully buttoned. I see your point too regarding your ELC and the original example. Nice jackets, I'd love to have either.