Buzz Rickson Chino thread

[Doug C]

Hey guys I have a pair of the 1942 chinos from buzz rickson and they're amazing quality as we all know, but I'm considering a pair of their 1961 models. I never hear anyone mention these specifically - anyone here have a pair? I'm curious as to what the cut's like, you can only tell so much from the japanese websites.

Doug C

 

[watchmanjimg]

I have the 1942 chinos as well and they're nice, but I don't know much about the 1961 models other than to say that I have originals from that era and they're nothing to write home about. I'd stick with the earlier designs. The trimmer cut and zip fly of the later versions take away all the character of the trousers in my opinion.

 

[Doug C]

watchman wrote:

The trimmer cut and zip fly of the later versions take away all the character of the trousers in my opinion.

Yes well that was sort of my opinion as well until recently. But actually the earlier "original spec." models (1937 I think) are much more trimmer with a (almost?) tapered leg even. I will be getting those too but will be wearing them very casually with vans or sandals or deck shoes, I don't think the taper would favor a boot or even a dress shoe as much as the others. Now as for the 1961 models, to me they (BR repros) don't seem that much more narrow legged than the '45 model ('42 being the widest leg). Also the rise still seems farely high/long. I assume BR has taken liberties with the cut and details as they often do/have so I wouldn't be totally surprised if they weren't like your originals. The thing is I really dig the quality and also would like having the variety of models at my disposal. Besides I think the waste/belt loop details are cool and they also have a decent zipper (talon I think). But then this is assuming my perceptions are accurate. Here's a pic of the 1961 model:



Doug C

 

[Cobblers161]

Doug, the Original Spec look very good with a dress shoe and 405's. Yes they're slimmer than a '42 but they are still a wide trouser in comparison to modern standards. The leg opening on the 36" waist is 9.75", that's a measurement from one of my pairs after a wash.
I wear 'em jivin' and they look and feel quality.

Obviously it depends what you're after but in no way are they a slim trouser, from the knee down they are 9.75".

 

[watchmanjimg]

Don't get me wrong. Owning a pair of quality khaki trousers beats getting poked in the eye with a sharp stick-even if their design is borrowed from the 1960s GI specs.

It would appear that the Buzz repros probably deviate somewhat from the original, which makes all the difference. I can tell you that the Vietnam-era originals in my collection are no match for the ones I have from WW2 and the Korean War period, but it certainly depends on what you like. I prefer the button fly and double-needle seams of the earlier models, and they seem to be cut somewhat fuller than those made in the 1960s onward. My 1971 khakis with hook closure at the waist are ghastly by comparison (again, only my opinion). That said, my Buzz 1942s appear to be almost exaggeratedly full relative to any original khaki trouser in my collection.

Now that I've thought about it a bit more, I guess there's no way you can lose with any of the Buzz designs. It's really a matter of preference.

 

[Cobblers161]

Jim, the 'Original Specs' are a different model to the 1961, they appear much slimmer on the Buzz Rikson's website than in the flesh, ok cotton, seams are double stitched and the fly zip is a spring loaded Talon! Nice touch.
I agree entirely that the detailing on the 42's is excellent, the button fly is worth the price alone(well almost), I'm just not sure I have the courage to wear a pair of 42's out on the streets just yet. Maybe my Original Specs are a staging post in my journey towards full size kecks.

 

[watchmanjimg]

When I used the word "original" I meant genuine GI trousers dating from the wartime era. I'm actually unfamiliar with the Buzz "Original Spec" model and will have to consult my trusty catalog.

Now that you mention it, I must confess that I tend to admire my Buzz '42s from afar for the most part. I've worn them once or twice, but they are quite wide in the legs!

 

[Doug C]

cobbler161 wrote (about the 'orig.spec') :

, from the knee down they are 9.75".

thanks for that, it's exactly the kind of info needed. Wish someone had the same for the '61 model. Particularly because the pics posted at Rickson's website can be unintenionally misleading, mostly because of how they've sized the model wearing them I think for instance here's their pic of the "Orig. Spec", which don't come across so great IMHO (compared to the others) :



..And then here's the same model (orig. spec) and I really dig the cut:



Doug C

 

[watchmanjimg]

Well, here I go reviving another old thread. Having decided to order the Buzz M43 roughouts from HPA, I'm also considering a couple more pairs of the 1942 chinos. Earlier in the thread I expressed mixed feelings about the full legs of this model, but after taking a second look at mine they're actually quite nice--especially now that I've acquired an original pair of the early, metal-button variant for comparison.

Anyone out there have long-term comments on these?

 

[Grant]

Before spending big bucks on repros don't give up hope on finding original wartime or earlier khaki trousers. This year I managed to pick up a pair of pre-war 1930's as well as mid 40's khaki's both in great condition.

I have a pair of the '42 Buzz khaki's and they're almost identical in color and cut to a deadstock original pair I have from 1941.

 

[watchmanjimg]

Grant, thanks for responding. I actually have a fair number of originals in my militaria collection. I know my approach is costlier but I just don't have the heart to wear originals unless they're fairly rough. Thus, for me the Buzz repros seem like the way to go.

 

[Grant]

I hear ya. The '42 buzz repros are cool and are breaking in nicely. I've got a couple pair of beater wartime khaki's that I don't mind wearing the hell out of.

 

[watchmanjimg]

Just got 2 pairs of the '42 pattern in. I can't wait to get them hemmed and ready to wear!

 

[Grant]

Just make sure you wash and wear them a couple times before hemming them. They do shrink in the inseam!

 

[watchmanjimg]

Just make sure you wash and wear them a couple times before hemming them. They do shrink in the inseam!

Thanks for the heads-up. I thought of this already and have washed and dried them twice (hot water wash, high heat dryer setting). Do you think they're ready to be hemmed at this point?