Willis and Geiger AN-J-3

[STEVE S.]

This is the next project on the list. It's an original Willis and Geiger AN-J-3. I've had this one put away for a few yrs trying to find a set of knits to match the originals. Finally had a set made, so ready to move forward with putting this one together. I'm completely dissecting this one & restitching everything, so am also making patterns while its apart in case I make some in the future if there is any interest. I haven't looked around to see if anyone is reproducing these.

notice the original rust colored knits. They are original to the jacket & I've never seen a Willis and Geiger with this color on the knits.



with new set:

 

[Skip]

going to look Super Steve!

 

[asiamiles]

So you think the jacket when new came with cuff knits that didn't match the waistband?

If you need some encouragement, then I'd say it definitely needs someone to take a stab at doing a quality repro of the AN-J-3, and especially as this is the more desirable of the styles with the A-2 type windflap and epaulettes, rather than it just being like a G-1 without the mouton collar. How much do you think you'll be able to churn them out for?

 

[STEVE S.]

not sure what the deal was with the cuffs fading like that, but underneath where they are stitched to the jacket is darker & matches the waistband. all stitch lines & thread is original. thread is dark brown underneath but faded to a tan on the outer surfaces.

not sure on pricing yet as finding hides i like in goat has been hard. the newer goat that i've found so far has a much finer, smoother grain & just seems to lack the character I'm looking for. I also have a 55j14 that needs a panel replaced. when i can find a hide that matches it, I'll know better what the materials will cost. these jackets with the bi-swing back do give more movement than a solid backed A-2.

 

[Peter Graham]

To find an original with a label. Now that would be something.

 

[STEVE S.]

per other discussions on the AN-J-3, I think it would be kinda cool to install these labels:

 

[asiamiles]

Makes sense to me.

 

[dujardin]

splendid

great project of restoration

congratsssssssssssss

 

[MikeyB-17]

What tells you it's a W&G? I didn't think anyone knew who made these, or even if they were actually a military issue jacket? AFAIK nobody has found one with a label, although I recall someone saying Charles DiSipio had one?

 

[STEVE S.]

it matches up stitch for stitch with a W&G that was on John's cd along with comparisons to other W&G produced jackets, they had a unique stitching pattern on the back of the collar that matches up with my W&G M-422a along with the pocket flap shape.

yes, alot of gray area on these but they are a really neat jacket!

 

[MikeyB-17]

That's interesting, it's been a mystery for years. As Peter says, would love for someone to come up with one with a label.

 

[Roughwear]

I have never seen one with a military spec label, only with commercial labels, which would make sense if the jacket was not produced in quantities for the USAAF and USN.

 

[STEVE S.]

yes, its strange when you look at the dates. there was alot crammed into a very short period of time with the AN series & the start of cloth jackets vs. leather.

A similar situation is currently going on with the US military in their constant switching of camo patterns on the BDU's. the Army keeps switching patterns, but the Marines keep sticking with the MARPAT pattern.

 

[STEVE S.]

i did find the remnants of what i suspect to be a lot#/size tag in the rt pocket when i removed it.

 

[asiamiles]

It seems doubtful that any of these were ultimately issued, and highly likely that they all ended up as commercially available jackets. There's just too many out there with labels removed. Is there a single photo of one being worn by military personnel? None of which takes anything away from the quality of the design and the finished jacket.

 

[STEVE S.]

here's one I've seen. can't say for sure, but does look to be awfully similar.

 

[STEVE S.]

Project is moving along pretty well, restitching is almost finished. While apart, the pockets were relined as the O.D. green cotton was in pretty bad shape. I did make patterns from everything while it was apart & have goatskin hides ordered to produce a test jacket.

 

[STEVE S.]

outer shell together, waistband on & new elastic in the bi-swing.

 

[dmar836]

Love watching this done!

 

[Skyhawk]

Sweet! Great work!!