Thread size on leather jackets

[Bombing IP]

Something I always wanted to know what is the thread size used on an jacket .To me it appears to be much thicker than the threads available for home sewing machines .Can this thread size be used on a domestic machine and if yes what size needles do I need . This question is for Ken at Aero leather but anyone is welcome if they know the answer . I have asked this question at sewing machine retailers and they do not know what I am talking about . I currently use a Bernina 730 and a Singer 15-91 direct drive .

Rgds BIP

 

[eac]

Here are some guidelines to help sew leather at home - poly or nylon topstitching thread is what you want.

Sewing Leather on a Home Sewing Machine – Brooklyn Craft Company

How to sew leather on a home sewing machine. It's easy to sew a leather bag on a home sewing machine. Presser foot, thread, stitch and leather sewing tips.

www.brooklyncraftcompany.com

It's not the whole machine but the needle that allows you to use a wider gauge of thread. A special-for-leather sewing machine needle will take wider gauge thread. You can swap out your regular needle for the leather needle.

Is your machine strong enough to sew through two or three layers of serious leather? I have a heavyweight Janome that I got specifically because it can sew light leather, such as lambskin. Of your two machines I would use the Singer 15-91 with a leather needle. The article says that should sew through up to 3 layers of leather - but they mean garment-weight lambskin, not horsehide!

For small leather repairs, like a loose lining or a little gap, I do them myself, by hand, with a leather needle. The fun part there is avoiding sewing myself to the jacket, because leather needles will go through human skin, so watch out!

 

[Chris 55]

I use T70#69 bonded thread with 110/120 leather needle this is on singer 96k 29k and Allbook and Hashfield fur sewing machine.
There recommended needle to thread charts.

 

[robrinay]

My Singer 201k isn’t a leather machine but will sew a couple of layers of leather with the correct needle. You’ll find these machines on eBay described as ‘semi industrial’ which they are not. They were however arguably the best domestic cast iron model Singer machines ever made - cost nearly as much as a car in their day. The last incarnations of the 201k had aluminium bodies but shared the same heavy duty innards gears etc. as their older siblings. You can buy leather needles for domestic machines -if you buy some look at the groove above the point - it’s width determines the maximum thread thickness as this groove is where the thread sits when the needle penetrates the material. Leather needles have ‘diamond’ shaped points to cut through the leather. You can also buy denim needles that will take thicker thread but they’re not so good at sewing leather as they don’t have diamond shaped points. The standard domestic feet are not so good for sewing leather as they grip too much at the pressures you need to stop the leather jumping as the needle rises. You can get round this by buying a roller foot - it’s got little rollers to help feed the leather. Finally If you’re serious about sewing leather then you’d be best to buy a proper leather sewing machine. As mentioned above small jobs can be sewn by hand with leather needles (diamond shaped point) and a sailmakers palm or a stitching awl and pricking chisel for thicker leather - bags etc. (Google them). There are lots of YouTube videos to train with.

 

[Bombing IP]

Well the Bernina and the Singer 15-91 have been sold and have been replaced with a Consew 225 and a Singer 111-102 both are industrial machines with walking feet .I also got the tables with them + clutch motors bobbin winders and thread holders .I have removed the clutch motors and dumped them ,they have been replaced with brushless servo motors .I am in the process of making a speed reducer with double pulleys so I can use the machine in slow mode and with the benefit of increased torque . I will be fitting a laser a led lighting so I can see what I am doing. This solves the problem with heavy thread and the ability to sew through some serious leather with a 1/2" presser foot lift .
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Thanks for the replies Rgds Jeff

 

[fongman]

Mil. Spec. コットン縫い糸(革用) ミッドブラウン、#16(蝋引) 500yds /新品

You may take a look to the MASH JP repro thread with 16/4, 4 cord cotton thread for military leather jacket like A-2 and M422A