Shoulder fit?

[jschare]

What is the opinion on how or where the shoulder seam should fit? I have A-2s and G-1s where the shoulder seam is right at the top of the shoulder notch and some that sit lower on the arm. I think I prefer the seam to be at the top of the shoulder notch before it curves toward the arm.

Just curious for a new thread...

 

[Dr H]

For my A-2s, with epaulettes, the sleeve sits well just at the top of the arm (i.e. no droop).

The A-1 is a more rounded pattern (lacking epaulettes) and sits more neatly/is more trim at the shoulder, but also sits at the top of the arm.

If these fit well then the jacket tends not to ride up when arms are raised.

 

[deeb7]

Yes, I like any leather jacket to fit squared up on the shoulders. On an A-2, for me, that means an epaulet length of around 6".

 

[Good Wear Fan]

In a size 48 A-2 I've seen shoulder to shoulder from 18" to 22" from many makers, which will effect the epaulets length from 7" to 8 1/2" so it's very important to know your size. I like jackets squared up on the shoulders also.

 

[RCSignals]

I prefer squared up on the shoulder as well.

'Modern' fashion preference of many seems to be to go too large (not just A-2s) with the end of the garment shoulder drooping over the top of arm sometimes by many inches, and a correspondingly too large chest cut.
Maybe that is why a G+B M422a in size 40 has a 52" chest circumference.

 

[wheat1479]

My first A-2 was a Cooper goatskin in the 80s.The sleeve and chest were fine,but the shoulders were 20 across.I tried a smaller size but the chest and neck were too tight.I like a 17-18 but no more.I wear a size 38 a-2. Its a ELC roughwear about 17.50-17.75.

 

[RCSignals]

I agree wheat, you can start to get into odd ratios for fit going up and down in sizing. For example to get closer to a real size 40 chest fit in the current G+B M422a, you almost have to go to a size 36, but then other areas such as shoulder fit and sleeve length are off, and going to a Tall doesn't improve it. Some companies patterns are just 'odd'.

 

[CBI]

a lot depends on the contract. sometimes a droopy look (a little), looks pretty cool, the straight/smart approach can also work. also depends on body type/shoulder width. Sometimes a slight extension of the shoulder line can help make a narrow, droop shoulder person look a little better. The list goes on ......... :shock:

 

[RCSignals]

Agreed CBI. WW2 photos show a variety of fit for A-2s.

It's also effected by the jacket being zipped up or open.