Sewing machine advice please!

[jonnyboy]

Hi guys,

I'm posting this in the repros section, as essentially it's a repro that I'm working on! I'm in the process of making a copy of an original WW2 jacket, and have reached the stage where I'm now ready to assemble the parts.

I've borrowed a sewing machine (a home one, not an industrial one) and it's clearly not man enough for the job. It's struggling with things like seams, collar straps, etc.

As several members have experience in making their own jackets, can anyone suggest a sewing machine model or make which I should look out for, and what features it needs to have? I have a limited budget (who doesn't!) so will probably go the second hand route. I have seen a few old machines in a second hand shop near where I live (a couple of Singers, PFAFF, and a few others) all for between 50 euros and 80 euros. If they work, would they be up to the job?

This is a project I've been working on for quite some time, and am really happy with the materials I've sourced - I just don't want to fall at the last hurdle! Any advice welcome! I hope someone can help.

Cheers,

Jon

 

[ghq1]

Please tell us what you're making . . . .

then I'll help you .. :lol:

 

[jonnyboy]

Well, that would be telling!

OK, I didn't want to say much to anyone until I'd put it all together (in case it ended up looking a mess), but it's a copy of an original 1943 Irvin.

Cheers,

Jon

 

[fishmeok]

Jon- you need a compound feed (upper and lower presser feet as well as the needle "feed" the material) industrial, don't even waste your time with a home machine. I have a Singer 211G465 that I use to make my jackets,

Singer, Consew, Seiko, etc. make these machines. Expect to pay $600 plus at the minimum for a (used) machine, table, and motor that actually works. The only other option is hand sewing. Believe me, I've tried. Unfortunatly the sheepskin jackets also use a special machine that double sews the tape on all the seams- it's a serious investment if you want it to look good.
Cheers
Mark

 

[jonnyboy]

Hi Mark,

Thanks for the info, and pics of your machine. I didn't know that a special machine is used for the seams on sheepskins - is that essential, or just preferred? I'm sure it's what Eastman use, as their seams look very precise and uniform. The original jacket I'm basing the repro on isn't quite as precise, but is well made. I've managed to get hold of leather and sheepskin which is more like an original than the ELC jackets I've seen to date, so if I can manage to put it all together - who knows....

The old machines I've seen in the second hand place near where I live look pretty decent - in fact one of the Singers looks a lot like yours! I think I'll take a trip there this week and see if any of them work.

Thanks for your help!

Cheers,

Jon

 

[fishmeok]

It's VERY difficult to sew the tapes on without a double needle machine. I have tried a little bit and it sort of worked, but I wouldn't recommend it. If you buy something make sure it's a compound feed machine! Sew with it first too, using the actual material you want to work with- bring scraps along, sew two pieces together, then fold and sew again to see if it will work. Also get several extra scrap hides to practice on.
Cheers
Mark

 

[DiamondDave]

Although I make caps, I do have some experience in this area as well....

For sewing on Shearling, You will need a "fur" sewing machine. This is a specialty type of machine with a needle that has a "flat trajectory", in stead of an up and down type model. The shealrling is placed "face to face" and is pinched together by a set of wheels and then a looping type of stitch is applied, much like the binding on a carpet. These machines are not especially expensive you I would expect you could get a second hand one for around 4 to 600 USD or that equivalent in GBP.

I know that FISHMEOK is also correct in his assessment of the need for a double needle machine, for sewing down binding tape, as it is virtually impossible to sew down the second side of the tape, once the first side has been secured.

Hope this helps, and is not discouraging, GOOD LUCK!

DD

 

[fishmeok]

I wondered how that works- I've seen fur machines on e-bay from time to time, but nothing close enough to make it worthwile.
Cheers
Mark

Although I make caps, I do have some experience in this area as well....

For sewing on Shearling, You will need a "fur" sewing machine. This is a specialty type of machine with a needle that has a "flat trajectory", in stead of an up and down type model. The shealrling is placed "face to face" and is pinched together by a set of wheels and then a looping type of stitch is applied, much like the binding on a carpet. These machines are not especially expensive you I would expect you could get a second hand one for around 4 to 600 USD or that equivalent in GBP.

I know that FISHMEOK is also correct in his assessment of the need for a double needle machine, for sewing down binding tape, as it is virtually impossible to sew down the second side of the tape, once the first side has been secured.

Hope this helps, and is not discouraging, GOOD LUCK!

DD

 

[jonnyboy]

Thank you all for your advice - I really appreciate it. I'll be scouring second hand places now for the right machines!

I'm pretty much there with sourcing all the materials, so when I've cracked it I'll post results!

Thanks,

Jon

 

[Andrew]

From memory there's a good clip of a B-3 being sewn together on the ELC DVD and I think it shows the double needle stitching down the tapes. Might be worth your while getting hold of a copy- i'm actually thinking of selling mine if you're interested.

Great idea for a project by the way and i'd love to see the end result.