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Refurbishded Last Model 7823 (AER) G-1 Jacket

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

I would like to share with the Forum members my latest project that was just completed. This jacket came into my possession over one year ago. Since first recievng it, most of that time it spent " airing it out " in my attic in a successful attempt to rid it of a very unpleasant tobacco odor. Some of you may recognize this jacket as the last true 7823 ( AER ) model jacket which was manufactured in 1960.

To facilate this refurbish job that work included installing a NOS aluminum Conmar zipper assembly and cuffs. The cuffs are NOS and exact same as the original. That new zipper assembly was slowly & methodically hand stitched in by me using a double needle technique. In doing this work every original hole was reused. The original waist band was retained by disconnecting it from the extension and then modifying the length and some light darning work. The mouton collar is original to the jacket and was left untouched along with the lining.

Besides simply exhibiting a few photos in celebration of a completed project, I thought it might be fun to include some explanation to the peculiarities of this jacket! Not to mention & it being one of my most favorite model G-1s, this particular jacket's maker gave this jacket it's own unique characteristics. The California Sportswear is a true transitional jacket which borrows traits from both the earlier made M-422A and the G-1. With this in mind, besides simply featuring my newly completed jacket within this thread, I will also attempt to illustrate those characteristics which I do not believe exists in any same (AER) model G-1 jackets.

For the most part, I'm very pleased with the way this project turned out. Although modified slightly to make for a better fitting jacket, for the most part and as you will see in the photographs seen below although modified to suit my needs I attempted to maintain the original equipment.

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Here is some of that double needle work in progress!

The first thing that stuck me about the jacket is it's longer body length. With a 26.00" body length, it is longer than most all those G-1s ever made. That longer body length makes the sleeves seem short. To illustrate that defining difference can be best seen in my early 1950s G-1 Werber & same model jacket but with it's 25.50" body and seen directly below.

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What really separates this jacket from all other G-1s is the small back panel. The smaller panel definitely is a characteristic of the M-422A & seen below.

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That back panel is shortened when the front panel raps around from the front & crosses past or slightly beyond the arm pit. On the the G-1 jacket the back panel is increased as is the length of the back belt extends towards the front of the jacket and ends directly under the arm pits. An example of this larger back panel is seen below.

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Again, this photo is taken from my early 1950s 7823 (AER) Werber jackets. Notice how the back belt is longer and the ends disappear as it extends further towards the front of the jacket. The one thing I would like to point out, besides having underarm gussets, what these USN jackets all share in common is the fact that their sleeves are always inset. The inset sleeve combined with the underarm gussets gives these jackets the ultimate in comfort. However, even with this superior design, these upgrades will not accommodate any extra gut!

Another slight but particularly uncharacteristic trait of this California Sportswear jacket is the sleeve size. The G-1 generally has an over all tight sleeve with a generous taper at the end. However, in the case of this California Sportswear this is not the case. The sleeves are slightly baggy and the end exhibits a slight taper and where the cuff meets the sleeve is exactly 6.00" in diameter. Again, a good example of this clinging style sleeve with a small hole at the sleeve end is seen on my same Werber jacket which comes in at 4.75"

In addition to being like the M-422A. This jacket does have it's own unique characteristics that as far as I know is not shared with any other USN jacket. That subtle nuance of this jacket jacket is the construction technique of the zipper extensions. Although not unique in itself, instead of being made from two different individual pieces sewn together seen in most all USN jackets, in this case each extension is made from one single folded piece.

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Likewise, there is no telltale exposed stitching seen at the ends of the extensions.

If anyone is looking for a fine vintage G-1 the California Sportswear makes for a great wearer! More often than not these jackets are found with deep grain and chocolate colored hide with lots of natural character. By far this jacket has the heaviest hide from any of my vintage jackets to include all my older M-422As. For the most part, I'm very pleased with the way this project turned out. Although modified slightly to make for a better fitting jacket, for the most part and as you have see in the provided photographs, to compete this project I attempted to maintain authenticity.

As one of my late Father's squadron mates said of his old flight jacket my OLD JACKET WILL PROBABLY LONG LAST OUTLAST ME AS THEY WEAR LIKE IRON .

On to the next project :)

Cheers, Dave
 

blackrat2

Well-Known Member
Really nice and sympathetically done.
Some good pics and nice little article about this contract.
 

dmar836

Well-Known Member
Your attention to detail is well noted. Great work!
That stitch is great for hand sewing. It is labor intensive but if one strand were to break, and even unravel, there is another one still there. I have a pair of needles I blunted just for this purpose.
Super nice jacket!
Dave
KC
 

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
bretron said:
Dave, you taking refurbish orders anytime soon? :D

Very impressive (all hand stitching?)

-Bret

No, this work is too laborious to want to take on any additional work as I already have enough of my own!

Not all of this work was done by hand! Some of this work was done with a machine but all the visible or top stitch work was done using the double needle technique. This type of needle work best mimics original machine work and guarantees the filling of all those old original holes while not adding any new. After perfecting this technique, to the naked eye, I found it very hard to tell the difference between where the old work stops and my new work begins.

Some time ago I did this same work to another but smaller sized California Sportswear G-1. For anyone interested, that thread can be found here viewtopic.php?f=15&t=7180 in the How To Info section of the Forum. After reading that same thread it might inspire you to take on some of this same work!

Cheers, Dave
 
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