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Redye a B3

John Lever

Moderator
Someone (not me) is asking how to colour the russet hh on a B3 to match the seal sheepskin panels.
I advised not to but any suggestions please ?
Materials and techniques
 

Silver Surfer

Well-Known Member
feibers oil based leather dye. dark brown mixed [depending on the color ya want] with black. mix the color you are happy with, with fibers dye reducer, and do two passes, possibly three. use a piece of 6" x 6" soft cloth dipped into the dye mixture, squeeze out excess, and apply to some newspaper before applying to the leather. that way you will not have unusual concentrations of dye in some areas. wear latex gloves so ya don't color your hands and fingers. frankly, I prefer the russet facings, but.....
 

B-Man2

Well-Known Member
John
We both know that no matter how well he does this color change, the odds are, it’s not going to end up exactly as he hoped . Even professionals have issues with doing perfect re dyes. As his friend you might want to share this thread in its entirety with him before he starts the process, just to let him make an informed choice .
 

dbtk44

Active Member
Grab a set of those furniture "scratch repair" pens at your local hardware store...I think the brand is rejuvenate or something like that, but any brand will do as long as theyre furniture touch up pens...looks like a set of art markers. They are alcohol/spirit stain, and work EXCELLENT on finished leather. The darkest brown one (NOT espresso or ebony, think it's mahogany) is a dead ringer for seal brown. I had a B3 type jacket that the seal finish had worn off down to pale flesh color in a few spots, and stippling the dye evenly on the spots covered perfectly. Can't even tell there was ever a wear spot, it blends in so well.
I can't think of a reason why they wouldn't work really well on hh russet leather. The trick to it is to do one pass...see how it looks, and if it's not dark enough, another pass...you really can't go too dark, because the dye only goes as dark as the actual dye color. If that makes sense.

I'd try a small spot first, stipple a spot on and see how it looks, add till it looks how you want it to. It dries almost instantly, so you'll know in 5 seconds if it's too light.
 

B-Man2

Well-Known Member
Grab a set of those furniture "scratch repair" pens at your local hardware store...I think the brand is rejuvenate or something like that, but any brand will do as long as theyre furniture touch up pens...looks like a set of art markers. They are alcohol/spirit stain, and work EXCELLENT on finished leather. The darkest brown one (NOT espresso or ebony, think it's mahogany) is a dead ringer for seal brown. I had a B3 type jacket that the seal finish had worn off down to pale flesh color in a few spots, and stippling the dye evenly on the spots covered perfectly. Can't even tell there was ever a wear spot, it blends in so well.
I can't think of a reason why they wouldn't work really well on hh russet leather. The trick to it is to do one pass...see how it looks, and if it's not dark enough, another pass...you really can't go too dark, because the dye only goes as dark as the actual dye color. If that makes sense.

I'd try a small spot first, stipple a spot on and see how it looks, add till it looks how you want it to. It dries almost instantly, so you'll know in 5 seconds if it's too light.
If you check the archives here you’ll find this. It may help you out .

 

Micawber

Well-Known Member
Just an excuse to huff some acetone. :)

There is something to this. As in all things preparation is key so it is advisable to remove any post manufacture treatments such as temporary fixes with coloured polishes or leather treatments should be stripped before redying.
 
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