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Please help me understand G-1 leather types and thickness...

So I'm on kind of a white whale hunt here and could really use y'all's help!

I first came across 60s/70s G1s at flea markets, vintage stores, etc. I was amazed at how well they fit me, specifically one type that kept cropping up- Star Sportswear size 38s. Besides the amazing fit, one of the things that really struck me about these was their thick-as-a-bulletproof-vest hides. Some might not like the super stiff, extremely thick type I'm talking about, but I was in love. I never bought the ones I found because they were either in bad shape or it was at the beginning of my journey and didn't want to spend the money. That's changed!

Fast forward about a year and a half. I was absolutely convinced what I wanted was a goat skin Star. I though goat was considered the toughest of all the hides, and in my hazy memory of the ones I'd tried on, I thought I remembered the pebbly texture and shine goat has. Well, I got my hands on one, almost new, and it shocked me how thin the thing's hide was! In the upper back area it was practically like a sheet of paper. I contacted my friend who knows a lot about this and helped me out, and he said, "oh no, you want cowhide! Goat is super thin." But I can't shake the feeling that all those others were goat. Maybe they were the pressed cow ones made to look like goat. At least one was a D or E series, for whatever that's worth, and I believe a number had Dynal.

So before I go spending any more money on this, I'm left wondering...

1. Are all goat ones in fact super thin? Or were there ones that had this ultra-thick/stiff feel I'm describing?
2. Were cow-pressed-to-resemble-goat ones common (by Star, notably)?
3. Am I really just remembering cow ones? (In other words, were cow ones the *only* ones that had this unique, ultra-thick/stiff feel?)
4. Any other insight you can provide?

Thanks so much all, I really really appreciate it!
 

MikeyB-17

Well-Known Member
There are chaps here who are more knowledgeable than me about G-1’s, but I can tell you that no, not all of the goat ones are thin, although I doubt any were super-thick. Definitely it varies a lot from contract to contract, maker to maker, even jacket to jacket. Sounds to me like the ultra-thick ones you admired were cowhide-yes they did press them to resemble goat. Goat is, as you say, one of the toughest of hides, which makes it possible for the hides to be thinner. Cowhide G-1’s are generally not as highly regarded as goatskin ones, but can age beautifully. Personally I have come to much prefer the thinner, lighter hides over thicker, heavier ones. Far easier to wear.
 

Skyhawk

Well-Known Member
The thickness of the Goat is specified in the Government Specifications - MIL-J-7823E (AS) 1971 - It's not very thick.
Screenshot 2023-12-01 093616.jpg
 

ZuZu

Well-Known Member
So I'm on kind of a white whale hunt here and could really use y'all's help!

I first came across 60s/70s G1s at flea markets, vintage stores, etc. I was amazed at how well they fit me, specifically one type that kept cropping up- Star Sportswear size 38s. Besides the amazing fit, one of the things that really struck me about these was their thick-as-a-bulletproof-vest hides. Some might not like the super stiff, extremely thick type I'm talking about, but I was in love. I never bought the ones I found because they were either in bad shape or it was at the beginning of my journey and didn't want to spend the money. That's changed!

Fast forward about a year and a half. I was absolutely convinced what I wanted was a goat skin Star. I though goat was considered the toughest of all the hides, and in my hazy memory of the ones I'd tried on, I thought I remembered the pebbly texture and shine goat has. Well, I got my hands on one, almost new, and it shocked me how thin the thing's hide was! In the upper back area it was practically like a sheet of paper. I contacted my friend who knows a lot about this and helped me out, and he said, "oh no, you want cowhide! Goat is super thin." But I can't shake the feeling that all those others were goat. Maybe they were the pressed cow ones made to look like goat. At least one was a D or E series, for whatever that's worth, and I believe a number had Dynal.

So before I go spending any more money on this, I'm left wondering...

1. Are all goat ones in fact super thin? Or were there ones that had this ultra-thick/stiff feel I'm describing?
2. Were cow-pressed-to-resemble-goat ones common (by Star, notably)?
3. Am I really just remembering cow ones? (In other words, were cow ones the *only* ones that had this unique, ultra-thick/stiff feel?)
4. Any other insight you can provide?

Thanks so much all, I really really appreciate it!
Been doing this since the 70s and I've never seen an overall thick goatskin jacket from the 60s or 70s. A few WW2 M422 types had thick goatskin I believe. That being said I have seen 60s/70s G1s with very variable goatkin with a thick portion say on the sleeve and very thin (paper thin) leather on other parts or on that same sleeve. The overall thick leathered G1s are 99% cowhide 70s 'E's. You may have found one of the 1% thick goat G1s however...
 
Been doing this since the 70s and I've never seen an overall thick goatskin jacket from the 60s or 70s. A few WW2 M422 types had thick goatskin I believe. That being said I have seen 60s/70s G1s with very variable goatkin with a thick portion say on the sleeve and very thin (paper thin) leather on other parts or on that same sleeve. The overall thick leathered G1s are 99% cowhide 70s 'E's. You may have found one of the 1% thick goat G1s however...
You know @ZuZu , over maybe ten different locations I posted this question online, I think yours has been the single most helpful response I’ve gotten (no jabs to everyone else- I appreciate the help! :)) This is exactly the information I needed. Thank you!! Mine is exactly as you describe- relatively thick in the arms and then almost tissue-thin in the upper back!

I also added elsewhere, but not in this post here:

“Oh, forgot to mention and came back to add this: I own a WWII AN-J-3A in goat, and that one IS quite thick and stiff. So more to my confusion!”

which I suppose plays into your M422 comment.
 
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