Photo comparison: Original RW 17756 B-3 vs. GW

[Nickb123]

Hi guys,

Thought I’d have some fun comparing @Jorgeenriqueaguilera’s original B-3 with a GW repro of the same contract. The details are very close, but obviously the shell colors differ.

 

[Nickb123]

 

[mulceber]

Thanks for posting these, Nick. Two jaw-dropping jackets. John did a wonderful job copying the details of that contract.

 

[B-Man2]

I’d say that JC has this one nailed down pretty nicely.

 

[Dany McDonald]

One thing I like on originals is the imprecise or out of alignment details here and there. The craftmanship is not judged here, those details are just a glimpse of the manufacturing process, industrial.

Both of these jackets are amazing. John Chapman is a true artisan excelling in his reproductions.

Thank you Nick for comparing, its fun.

Dany

 

[Nickb123]

You’ll note the slightly different styled hanger loops

And the “Regular” in the original example on the size tag. Though my hunch is originals had a variance of labels with the “Regular” and without.

The fleece looks to be a bit different too. But it’s an insane copy.

 

[warguy]

Dany nailed it. I was just getting ready to post the exact same thing when i read his comments. The GW jacket is an outstanding repro, but it is the “industrial” sloppiness if you will, of the originals that always reminds me these were made en mass, to meet contract deadlines and get them out to the troops. I bought an original B3 in similar condition to Jorge’s last year (a Werber 1942 contract) and the manufacturer had done a very small repair to the hide on the back. It looks like a facial suture it is that precise and no doubt done by the original contractor. Again just evidence that these were utilitarian, and not made to please a consumer dropping $1500.00. This was a cool comparison. Thanks!

 

[B-Man2]

It seems that perfection has its detractors in this hobby. We’ve discussed it a number of times . The wonkyness of wartime originals Vs the perfect reproductions of those same jackets. If you plop down $1400 or $1500 most guys want a perfect repro… while some want a little misalignment of a pocket flap or a pocket just like a war time production jacket. It’s a funny bunch we are
I’ve found myself going in both directions from repro to repro.

 

[mulceber]

Well-said, Burt. I'll add, John absolutely can give it that wonky, industrial sloppiness if you want him to. But as you said, most don't.

 

[Dany McDonald]

while some want a little misalignment of a pocket flap or a pocket just like a war time production jacket

Quite true for me, I'd even add that my Aero was made by an apprentice and I still like it a lot. It was even made with lower grade horsehide and it shows in a way I appreciate, and I'd do it again!

I bought an original B3 in similar condition to Jorge’s last year (a Werber 1942 contract) and the manufacturer had done a very small repair to the hide on the back. It looks like a facial suture it is that precise and no doubt done by the original contractor

I love scars and fixes especially on leather jackets or bags. Repairs on jeans gets my attention too. When its well made and integrated and the craftmanship transpires I feel it adds uniqueness to the garment.

John absolutely can give it that wonky, industrial sloppiness if you want him to.

That I'd like to see.

 

[mulceber]

That I'd like to see.

Sure:

Note the stitching on the spec label:

Rough Wear wind flap stitching:

 

[blackrat2]

Yeah that’s a frighteningly good repro of the original
As Jan said John will do wonky stitching, mismatched pocket placement if you ask him

 

[Chandler]

Sure:

Note the stitching on the spec label:
View attachment 114703

Rough Wear wind flap stitching:
View attachment 114705

What hide is that?

 

[mulceber]

What hide is that?

Horween for both of them.

 

[Dany McDonald]

Fun details, I especially like the label, it also looks a bit misaligned.

 

[Chandler]

Horween for both of them.

Sorry, meant the Monarch, but good to know.

 

[mulceber]

Fun details, I especially like the label, it also looks a bit misaligned.

Honestly just the other day I was looking at the RMC M-444 I picked up, and the thing that struck me, is that my GWs look like a slightly dressed-up version of WW2 stitching. They look like they were sewn by a human being, but a human being that knows what they're doing. The RMC's stitching looks *perfect*. Could have been sewn by a robot (i.e. not what originals look like). This is the New Zealand branch of the company, so I don't think it's that Japanese perfection that Jeff has commented on, but the stitching was very different from what John does.

 

[Dany McDonald]

Yeah I understand what you mean, and ''counting stitches'' is something I really like about this hobby. Though I consider myself a newbie and know nothing, I can enjoy comparing originals and repros when possible. Because GW is a one man show, he reproduces what he sees and what he likes. RM-Few-BR etc are industrialist with a production chain, not quite too far from the original manufacturers in some way. It would be very optimistic to ask RM for a slightly misplace pocket unless its marketed and pitched as a new trend. They do go for the odd and unique feature sometimes, like the UV faded pink Albert Turner MA-1 or multi olive shade panels Sigmund Eisner N-3 parka. Speaking of Nylon jackets, all my originals have many imperfections, the bottom top is Rolen Sportswear, so off its almost funny sometimes. Personally I am captivated with the Japanese vintage culture and its ramification into the fashion/garment market. I see it as manga dress-up for the hipsters.

Again, we can conclude that John Chapman is in his own league!

D

 

[Dany McDonald]

Forgot to mentioned, now you got me looking ''again'' for more misalignment and wonky stitching...

And when you say:

The RMC's stitching looks *perfect*

Do you mean perfect like made with a modern machine versus GW using an older sewing machine emulating the 30's and 40's style?

D

 

[mulceber]

Do you mean perfect like made with a modern machine versus GW using an older sewing machine emulating the 30's and 40's style?

Yeah, perfect as in made with a modern machine, whereas GW's looks like the originals do. The RMC way is nice and precise, and I get why they do it - if they were to introduce any sort of wonky stitching, most of their customers would flip out and demand a refund. It's kind of ironic because, when it comes to denim, the Japanese are all about wonky weaving. But they won't get behind wonky stitching.

Being a one-man operation, though, John can actually make jackets that cater to people who know what the originals were like. I'll take his way over RMC's any day.