Newbie: Which contract and size for my body measurements?

[Turntabloid]

Hi,

I am a total newbie to flight jackets, but I definitely want to buy a A-2 and already have some ideas how I want it to fit.

Feel free to bash me, as my wishes might not correspond to any original contract, but maybe you have a good suggestion!

I am 6'2" (189cm) tall, I weight 190lbs (86kg), chest is approx. 42.5" (108cm) measured with a shirt and tad of room.
Long arms and torso.

This all said, I definitely look for a LONG, instead of a REGULAR cut.

Additionally, I want the jacket to have a more fitted tendency than the usual bulky cuts I saw so far and relatively long.

Eastman Leather suggested a Werber contract in a LONG cut (adding 1.5" to the sleeve and body).

Could some of you comment on this suggestion, suggest other contracts which might fit my requirments and maybe also comment on which size to take in the contracts with the above measurements?

Any help would be highly appreciated!

Br,
TT

 

[SuinBruin]

If you genuinely want a custom fit jacket, you really need to talk to John Chapman of Good Wear Leather. He will be able to provide you feedback based on your measurements and body type as to which A-2 contract will fit you best, and then cut the jacket to those specs. As good as Eastman and some of the other makers are, you would essentially be going off-the-rack sizing with them (with perhaps some variation in length as Eastman told you).

A Good Wear is expensive, and it takes some time to receive your jacket, but John is a great guy to deal with, knows his stuff backwards and forwards, and will make you the jacket you want made.

If you're not prepared to deal with the wait or expense of a Good Wear, then Eastman seems to be giving you some good info, and they make a fine product. You may also want to consider Aero, as they also make custom jackets, though probably a notch or two below GW and Eastman insofar as authenticity is concerned.

 

[deeb7]

This all said, I definitely look for a LONG, instead of a REGULAR cut.

Additionally, I want the jacket to have a more fitted tendency than the usual bulky cuts I saw so far and relatively long.

SuinBruin offers good advice ... talk to John.

I'm 6', and wear regular sized (42) Dubow pattern A-2's from Real McCoy. I realise that that the extra 2" makes a lot of difference, but try and avoid altering the A-2 pattern too much. The A-2 has that boxy look, if you add length, and slim down the body, it can look odd.

 

[bseal]

Good Wear Leather Coat Company: Star Sportswear or Dubow A-2.

 

[Andrew]

For me the arm length is the dimension that's important. I'm 6'2" and 94kg (that'll make a difference) and wear a size 48L Dubow in both RMNZ Dubow and Goodwear Dubow but 46 is ok as well. I'd suggest that a 44-46 might be right for someone your build.

This is the GW when new

This is the RM

 

[better duck]

(....) but John is a great guy to deal with, knows his stuff backwards and forwards (....)

Yes he is, and I'd add: inside and outside as well!!

 

[better duck]

I'd suggest that a 44-46 might be right for someone your build.

Andrew, I'd say 46 here. My experience with 44s is that I "hang" in them. I'm 6'1" and 95 kilos. Having said this, I stick to my comment above: contact John and you'll be OK, but prepare for a long wait. I've done so several times and every long time it was more than worth it!!

 

[better duck]

Oh, BTW: welcome to our forum!! Have fun here! Any chance of some more info about how you got here and what your interests are? We'd really appreciate that! You could add a bio in the bio-section ...

 

[Turntabloid]

wow, thanks for the help and kind words!

the answer seems to be john/GW. that is the "subtle undertone" I get here :lol:
I lurked his site for quite some while too, and might need to really call him up on this one.

in terms of pricing, the actual GW price is only slightly higher than the EL, but as I am located in Germany - I am afraid of 30% custom fees & tax. might need to activate my family overseas to get this done.

what is the average waiting period with GW? page states 10-14 weeks which is less than my current waiting period on my custom ordered ultimate indys from leathersoul, but still ...

i will try to update my profile soon and add some bio. but, I will obviously not be able to contribute for some time if I go with GW

just a short motivation which got me interested in flight jackets - vintage (repro) denim, leather belts and boots.

i am also registered as "turntabloid" with SuperFuture (SUFU), which some of you will be familiar with!

thx again,
TT

 

[johnwayne]

Not sure how the tax situation is in Germany but I bought a jacket form John which aparrently was 'worn' for a few hours - he described it on the customs invoice as a 'used military jacket' and I didn't pay any tax! Quite agree with what's been said about John - absolutley excellent to deal with - have you checked if he's anything which might suit you that's 'on sale'? That might be cheaper and quicker rather than wait - I wanted a 'sale' A1, gave him my measurements and he advised it would not fit me but then offered an A2 that would plus was a good saving on a 'new' one and it duly arrived, is a perfect fit and it's the new love of my 'jacket' life!!!
You will find John's jackets a more true fit when compared to an original than Eastmans. I wear a 42" Eastman and the shoulder seams sit lower down the top of the arm than they should and the body is a more generous cut ie a more modern fit but having said that, some prefer it that way for an everyday jacket. John reckoned the epualets on my Eastman are the size used on a 48" original!! My Goodwear is a 44" yet I think looks and feels better and it felt right from the very first wearing but I still love my Eastmans, nearly as much!!
Best of luck, welcome to the forum
From a rainy grey London
Wayne

 

[Turntabloid]

thx wayne,

will keep that in mind!

br,
TT

 

[handworn]

I second the recommendation of John Chapman. I just can't say enough good things about his degree of knowledge and professionalism. A better value for the money, I think.

I had to wait a long time for my GW (more than 10-14 weeks) but I didn't mind.

What is SuperFuture?

wow, thanks for the help and kind words!

the answer seems to be john/GW. that is the "subtle undertone" I get here :lol:
I lurked his site for quite some while too, and might need to really call him up on this one.

in terms of pricing, the actual GW price is only slightly higher than the EL, but as I am located in Germany - I am afraid of 30% custom fees & tax. might need to activate my family overseas to get this done.

what is the average waiting period with GW? page states 10-14 weeks which is less than my current waiting period on my custom ordered ultimate indys from leathersoul, but still ...

i will try to update my profile soon and add some bio. but, I will obviously not be able to contribute for some time if I go with GW

just a short motivation which got me interested in flight jackets - vintage (repro) denim, leather belts and boots.

i am also registered as "turntabloid" with SuperFuture (SUFU), which some of you will be familiar with!

thx again,
TT

 

[Turntabloid]

SuperFuture is, similar like StyleForum, a Forum for Fashion.

http://www.superfuture.com
http://www.styleforum.com

While I generally do not check or post in Styleforum, there is a good sub-section on SuperFuture dedicated to Denim (called "Superdenim").
http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/forumdisplay.php?f=15

Here, people are interested in things which fade over time, establish a patina and simply put "look better with age", as well as vintage and repro.

There is a thread dedicated to "Flight Jackts",
http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=24448

and a forum dedicated to military or workwear clothing (or inspired by it).
http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=149209

 

[CBI]

I think if you are interested enough to becaome a VLJ member and ask this, you won't be happy until YOU are convinced you have the best jacket you can get and that's going to be a Good Wear. The wait? its worth it and even though you may pay more with tax (I like the "used" idea) you will end up saving money getting it right the first time. SO MANY enthusiasts can't wait and end up getting something else and then buy something again becasue the first buy was not 100%. - expensive!!! There are exceptions of course.

 

[Turntabloid]

I totally agree - I honestly want to buy a jacket which might last me for decades, so why make any compromises?