My repro Irvin project

[jonnyboy]

Hi guys,

I've had this Irvin project on the go for about a year and a half now, but it's taken me this long to start to put together the first parts of the jacket! So far, just a sheepskin 'vest', but hopefully I'll be attaching sleeves and adding seam tapes, zips, collar back, belt, etc over the next month or so. It's been slow progress, as work tends to get in the way, and I have two daughters (aged 3 and 5) so not much free time! Still, I'm really pleased with the materials that I've managed to source and have made. Hopefully, when it all comes together, it will be a nice wearable jacket with a good deal of authenticity.

Here are a couple of photos - one of the jacket as it is so far, next to the original, and one showing a few of the component parts. John Chapman has been a real help with great advice and tips, as have several other forum members. At the moment I'm still getting to grips with my industrial sewing machines (one of which is being repaired!).

Cheers,

Jon

 

[bseal]

Awesome!!!

 

[Falcon_52]

Wow! What a great project! It's looking very good so far. I wish you the best of luck. Keep us posted, please.

Noel

 

[Roughwear]

It's great to see you attempting an Irvin and you have made a very promising start. What type of industrial sewing machine are you using?

 

[Jason]

Its amazing the resourcefulness of members here. That looks really good... do keep us updated on how it progresses.

 

[jonnyboy]

Thanks for the positive comments guys - I really appreciate it. It's been a steep learning curve, but very enjoyable and I'm pleased with the results so far.

Andrew, the machines I'm using are an industrial twin needle (which can also be used as a single needle) and a fur sewing machine. They were pretty expensive, but I'm serious about doing a proper job. The fur machine is a bit temperamental, but I'm slowing getting the hang of it! If the jacket turns out how I hope, then I'll be looking to produce more jackets.

I'll keep you posted with how it's developing!

Cheers,

Jon

 

[Andrew]

Excellent work Jon, where did you manage to sounrce the Lightning from? The zips have always been a major downfall of all repros.

Really looking forward to seeing the completed animal.

 

[jonnyboy]

where did you manage to sounrce the Lightning from? The zips have always been a major downfall of all repros.

I had the zips made Andrew - they're not perfect copies by any means, but look pretty good. I would love to eventually have exact copies of either the Lightning or Dot zips made, but for now these aren't bad. I think exact reproduction zips would be very expensive - a project for a little way down the line I think!

Cheers,

Jon

 

[Andrew]

I had the zips made Andrew - they're not perfect copies by any means, but look pretty good. I would love to eventually have exact copies of either the Lightning or Dot zips made, but for now these aren't bad. I think exact reproduction zips would be very expensive

I'll bet that was an excercise. From this one shot it looks a lot better than anything i've seen so well done. There are so many details to improve on these so it's going to be great to see your interpretation.

I can see myself possibly getting in line for one of your creations in time.

 

[John Lever]

where did you manage to sounrce the Lightning from? The zips have always been a major downfall of all repros.

I had the zips made Andrew - they're not perfect copies by any means, but look pretty good. I would love to eventually have exact copies of either the Lightning or Dot zips made, but for now these aren't bad. I think exact reproduction zips would be very expensive - a project for a little way down the line I think!

Cheers,

Jon

That's interesting.
Derek at Lewis Leathers is making a copy of their wartime Aviakit jacket. The original has Lightening zips. He can't have repro Lightnings made because of fear of legal action by Harley who make a Lightning jacket.

 

[havocpaul]

How does a Harley jacket infringe on a 'Lightning' zip? (or other way round!) In the Lewis catalogue they show a repro Lightning for some of their jackets, also when Harlen Glenn was making repros of Denison smocks he was using Lightning zippers too.

 

[John Lever]

Just what Derek told me.

 

[jonnyboy]

Derek at Lewis Leathers is making a copy of their wartime Aviakit jacket. The original has Lightening zips. He can't have repro Lightnings made because of fear of legal action by Harley who make a Lightning jacket.

John - these zips aren't exact copies, and don't feature the Lightning name. I guess you could say that they are 'Lightning inspired', in the same way that the Eastman sliders are. I can well understand that having the brand name would be a copyright infringement though.

Cheers,

Jon

 

[jonnyboy]

Re: My repro Irvin project - expert knowledge requested!

Calling all Irvin experts!

I've been trying to decide between using a hanging chain, or leather strip in my repro Irvin jacket. I'm leaning towards the leather strip, mainly because I've always preferred them.

Most leather strip hangers that I've seen are sewn straight through the seam tape where the collar joins the main body of the jacket. Below are pics of a jacket I have which uses a 'box and rivet' method. Does anyone know how usual this is? I don't think I've seen it before. I like the extra detail of the stitched box with the central rivet - any opinions?

Thanks,

Jon

 

[Roughwear]

Jon, the rivet method with box stitching together seems to have been quite rare compared with the use of rivets alone and the sewn method of securing the chain or leather hanger.

 

[philip.ed]

This project looks awesome, I can't wait to see the finished product. That Irivn of yours is a beauty too; is it dated?

 

[rich]

Derek at Lewis Leathers is making a copy of their wartime Aviakit jacket. The original has Lightening zips. He can't have repro Lightnings made because of fear of legal action by Harley who make a Lightning jacket.

John - these zips aren't exact copies, and don't feature the Lightning name. I guess you could say that they are 'Lightning inspired', in the same way that the Eastman sliders are. I can well understand that having the brand name would be a copyright infringement though.

Cheers,

Jon

According to this, Lightning Fasteners closed in 1982 - difficult to see what right Harley has to the name.............
http://avonpdc.co.uk/page5.html

I've never seen this positioning before Jon - my Irvin had a leather strip hanger, unfortunately no longer present. I'd hate to think of even hanging a repro by the chain though, does anyone use them?

 

[jonnyboy]

Andrew, thanks - I thought it was unusual. As much as I like the box stitching/rivet combo, I think for my repro it needs to be more typical of original jackets. So probably a leather strip with just the box stitching then. ELC and Aero both use chains, so it would be nice to do something different.

Rich - interesting info regarding Lightning. I wonder who holds the copyright then?

Ben - thanks for the encouragement - I just hope I can get it all to come together! I'm happy with the materials, and I should have the pattern nailed soon. The original in the photo is dated 1943, but I'm using a different original jacket to make the pattern. The 1943 jacket is too nice to take apart!

Cheers,

Jon

 

[jonnyboy]

Rich - not sure if I'd hang a sheepskin jacket up using the chain either. I know that's what they're for, but I don't think I'd risk it!

Cheers,

Jon

 

[Roughwear]

Rich - not sure if I'd hang a sheepskin jacket up using the chain either. I know that's what they're for, but I don't think I'd risk it!

Cheers,

Jon

Wise words here and I agree 100% with them.