More On "Period" Looking Watches

[dmar836]

Here's a shot with some military(issue) watches and some other WWII era watches. If one wants a wearer, I would trend to suggest another period watch rather than risk damage to an original A-11, etc. They certainly have the look. Even the largish Calvert(upper right) is small by today's standards.
Note: Many civilian watches were worn in theater for sure and many companies had watches they would call "military" model, etc. But if buying, be aware that unless it was a spec watch that was contract built, marked, and issued, it is NOT a military watch. Once military issue is established, it's amazing how many sellers will then call any watch with 12 numbers or lume a "pilot's" watch. Many of these civi watches running, or just needing a cleaning, can be had for $15-20 USD and are a great way to start practicing. It's quite rewarding to get one running again after years of neglect but you can see why it is seldom worth investing in a $100+ cleaning on these old watches.

Top row: A host of civilian models with a military theme: Benrus, Allen, Harmon, Elco, Bulevard, Fewa, Normandie, Calvert.

Bottom row: Two Elgin A-11s, A-17(with Elgin back with Bulova 10BNCH movement, dial, and case), Bulova 3818A(same case as A-17 and often same movement), a couple NOS stainless cases(A-17 or 3818), a pre-Khaki Hamilton quartz(9715), more 10BNCH partial movements, and an extra A-17 dial.


A few of these run as is and some are projects needing a part here or there. I'll end up with a few mongrel "military" watches.

One can purchase a quartz movement for very little and retrofit an old watch using the dials you have or, as I plan to try, printing up your own replica dials.

Lot's of options out there if you just want "the look".

Discuss,
Dave

 

[Stony]

Very nice collection Dave. I've always liked the military type watch and still have my dad's Bulova Ord. Dept. watch he was issued when he graduated from OCS in 1942. They're nice as they don't look out of place on my small wrists.

 

[dmar836]

Nor on mine. I say we bring them back!

 

[dmar836]

Here is an older Hamilton 9715 (Pre-Khaki I assume). I changed the poor running movement with a Wenger Swiss quartz movement and added a vintage domed crystal and replica band. The band is not very good(but the correct larger width for this). I might dye it but I'm almost positive the thread is synthetic and would take color poorly.

The domed crystal is one place where Hamilton gets the look right on some of the larger khaki models but misses on the smaller faux "dustproof" cases. The flat crystal just has no personality IMO.

I have yet to alter the hands or dial but I think it captures the "look" compared to what else is currently out there. What say ye?

Maybe I should use Andrew's "HWT for watches" on the case?

Dave

 

[watchmanjimg]

Dave, that's a nice little collection you've got there. I also applaud your efforts to add watchmaking to your already impressive list of skills. I guess I'd have to agree that some old watches may not be worth restoring if it costs $100+ to do so, but in my experience such services can be found for less. For a typical manual winding watch it usually costs me $45-65 per watch including a new crystal when needed, and my watchmaker has resurrected many old pieces from a half-century or more of inactivity. In the interest of full disclosure I'd point out that he's a close personal friend and accordingly treats me more than fairly, but our relationship only developed in the course of his servicing some 30 or more of my watches over the past 5-6 years! He also has a vast stock of spare parts, vintage bands, and in some cases complete donor watches to scavenge from so maybe I'm a little spoiled. I cringe at the thought of a quartz movement being installed in place of a vintage mechanical caliber, but to each his own. They don't call me the "Watchman" for nothing . . .

The Elgin/Bulova 3818A watches are of particular note. While these are almost identical to the A-17A navigator's watch, I find them to be somewhat less common although they were a general-issue timepiece. Widely believed to be Korean War-era, my understanding is that this model was in fact produced from approximately 1958-62 and was replaced by the Benrus 3818B (DTU-2A/P). In any event it certainly has "the look" for those desiring a vintage GI timepiece for wear with khakis and a flight jacket, with the added benefit of a quality steel case.

 

[dmar836]

Thanks for the compliment and excellent input. "I'm sure I could learn a lot from you!
The Hamilton was from the 80s or 90s so was originally built with a quartz movement. I have too many mechanical movements to do that to a period case, I assure you. As it was, I could not get the movement to keep good time.
There is nothing like a mechanical watch! I almost wish they were louder! The pallet ticking is about as soothing as it gets IMO.
I did this Hamilton build in the spirit of "the look" only and did not sacrifice any period civilian or mil spec parts at all(except the crystal). I did want to improve on the direction they took with the Khaki line.
You are fortunate to have such a watchmaker friend - it's a dying art for sure. Few realize how these old movements must be frequently serviced nor do they realize what a luxury it was to have a good watch "back in the day".
Since many military movements were re-cased post-war when a new watch was quite pricey, I find it rewarding to get one running again and even more so to reunite a movement with it's intended style military case.
I will show some of my refurbished watches from time to time as they sure are interesting.
Dave

 

[watchmanjimg]

I forgot to mention that although I love big dive watches I have no trouble wearing smaller models. Here are some crappy pics of today's choice, a 34mm Rolex Date from 1967. This was a documented Vietnam-era Asian PX purchase and sports a correct riveted Oyster bracelet:

 

[dmar836]

Beautiful! And few would know the quality based on the simplicity much less the story behind it. Great choice!

Share more of your collection if you'd care.
Dave

 

[watchmanjimg]

Beautiful! And few would know the quality based on the simplicity much less the story behind it. Great choice!

Share more of your collection if you'd care.
Dave

Thanks for the positive feedback. I've always been proud of this one as it came complete with the original boxes/papers. I'll be glad to post more pics later on. At the moment we're clothes shopping for the little lady, so this is the only watch I have available. However, let me assure you there are many more . . .

 

[grommet]

I would like the member's opinion of the Hamilton Khaki Field mechanical watch (H6941993). To my eye, this watch has a very clean, solid and functional look. I like the idea of it being mechanical. Another attraction is that it is relatively inexpensive ($275 on amazon.com). Of course, it is a far cry from a WW 11 period watch, with the most obvious difference being the size. The case diameter of the Hamilton is 38 mm vs. the 30 mm of my Bulova A-11. I had trouble posting a photo, but here is the link to the amazon.com webpage:

http://www.amazon.com/Hamilton-H6941993 ... =1-7-spell

 

[dmar836]

I like that watch as much as any and think it has the look. However, once you see it in person, the size ruins it for me. To me the size ruins that look. It is then just a simplified watch. Not criticizing Hamilton as I said, their styling is as close as it gets nowadays.
For the money, you could buy a quartz(I know - not mechanical) Army/Navy watch with about the same case - certainly the same style case - and either modify it for a better A-11 look or use it as-is. Plus you'd have enough left over for a nice period A-11.
Have you looked at them in person?
Dave

 

[watchmanjimg]

I would like the member's opinion of the Hamilton Khaki Field mechanical watch (H6941993). To my eye, this watch has a very clean, solid and functional look. I like the idea of it being mechanical. Another attraction is that it is relatively inexpensive ($275 on amazon.com). Of course, it is a far cry from a WW 11 period watch, with the most obvious difference being the size. The case diameter of the Hamilton is 38 mm vs. the 30 mm of my Bulova A-11. I had trouble posting a photo, but here is the link to the amazon.com webpage:

http://www.amazon.com/Hamilton-H6941993 ... =1-7-spell

They're not as easy to find nowadays with the black dial, but check out the 33mm version of the Khaki Field Mechanical. It's really closer to a Vietnam-era timepiece in dial layout, but the size approximates the WW2 "look" you're seeking. I believe Hamilton still offers the 33mm version with a green dial, but for obvious reasons it's worthwhile to keep searching for the black one.

 

[grommet]

Thanks to both Dave and watchmanjing for the excellent advice. I decided against the new Hamilton Khaki mechanical black face owing to the large size. I found several H3 models on eBay which, at 33 mm, are a better size and are fairly cheap, but I didn't like the acrylic crystals, which all looked scratched. I finally decided to buy a 33 mm black face Khaki that I found on eBay. Actually, it was the only one I could find on the Internet since this model has been discontinued apparently. The seller has a somewhat sparse track record, but what the heck.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160694799006?ss ... 1497.l2649

 

[watchmanjimg]

Nice score, Alan! Hopefully the watch will give you years of trouble-free service. While not original to the watch (as the seller points out), those straps look like the NATO variant of the Maratac Zulu. They're bulletproof and far superior to the cheap leather-back canvas strap the watch came with.

A word on acrylic crystals for future reference: I understand your concern regarding scratching, but most scratches can be buffed out with a soft cloth and a small amount of Brasso, Polywatch, et cetera. It's not a big deal at all, and even cracked crystals can usually be replaced cheaply. Unless you really abuse your Hamilton you should never have a problem with its sapphire crystal, but if I were you I wouldn't be put off by watches with acrylic crystals.

 

[Clark J]

Got one in Quartz,,bigger than an A-11 and very thin!great for jackets and has the"look"!!You can even get a WW2 style one pieced canvas band on Ebay!

 

[grommet]

I received the watch today. When I wound it a bit the second hand moved for 10 seconds. I wound it a bit more and, each time, the same thing happened. I also notice that it is not as easy to wind as I would expect. I will, of course, contact the seller, who stated that it is "in great shape and keeps accurate time". I hate to return it, but I also don't want to be out $200 for a watch that doesn't run. Any suggestions?

 

[grommet]

I received the watch today. When I wound it a bit the second hand moved for 10 seconds. I wound it a bit more and, each time, the same thing happened. I also notice that it is not as easy to wind as I would expect. I will, of course, contact the seller, who stated that it is "in great shape and keeps accurate time". I hate to return it, but I also don't want to be out $200 for a watch that doesn't run. Any suggestions?

Update: I moved the watch and it ran for 15 minutes. I put it on and it stopped. I took it off and it is running again. Could it be that it just needs a cleaning or, alternatively, an exorcism?

 

[deeb7]

I received the watch today. When I wound it a bit the second hand moved for 10 seconds. I wound it a bit more and, each time, the same thing happened ...

A watch will usually be erratic with only a little power, if you fully wind it, and it still stops, yes it probably needs a clean.

Hopefully the difficulty with winding is no more than a worn winding crown.

 

[dmar836]

Alan, What happened? I have a hard time paying that much for a non-USAAF watch but I know that's just me. Guess, like with jackets, we are always looking for "the watch."
Another member told me to only collect watches if you can afford to throw that money away. He was referring to high end watches and their ubiquitous fakes but the point also applies to these, I suppose. I haven't bought too many nice watches but I always try to subtract from the bid the amount of possible repair/service.
I hope he honors a return. Worse case you can have it serviced and maybe have a nice watch that is sought after by our likes.
Dave

 

[Clark J]

WOW Dave had to look that one up!!!Just so happens I'm wearing a "ubiquitous"(DSSD)today!!