Making an ANJ-3

[fishmeok]

I've been slowly working on my ANJ-3 and as usual my pattern is leaving a lot to be desired. I am basing this on my rotted out G&F M-422A but since this is my only example (and the upper half of the back is rotted out) I had to make some educated guesses about the way the pieces are made. It's surprisingly difficult to figure out whether a seam is supposed to be straight or if the "set" the leather has taken over the last 60 years is the true pattern line. I have a "C" contract G-1 to compare it with, but there are so many differences between the two that I can really only use it as a construction guide. Since the pics I have sewn up the side seams, constructed the arms, and am working on epaulet placement. John clued me in on the best way to sew the buttonholes on the pockets, and I am going for a nice scalloped pocket flap. This jacket is going to have Dubow epaulets and collar, A-2 front including zipper construction, and I'm going to use the leather strips inside along the liner as on an M-422A so I can include the inside pocket. No inside windflap though, I think that would be redundant. also M-422A knits.

I already messed up the original back panel and had to make a two-pice out of my remaining leather...

These jackets are very difficult to make, and incredibly labor intensive. A real challenge for the hobbyist..
Cheers
Mark

 

[greyhound52]

John Chapman agrees with you that making Navy style jackets is more labor intensive than the A2.

 

[dujardin]

hello Mark

congrat for your work and thanks for the educationnal photos you place for our information.
pitty you had not enough leather to make a one piece back.
i'm amazed to see you making your jacket.
byeeeeeeeeeee marcel

 

[fishmeok]

Thanks Marcel- What ever happened with that ANJ-4 you have that used to be mine? Was your wife able to make it wearable?
Cheers
Mark

 

[dujardin]

Thanks Marcel- What ever happened with that ANJ-4 you have that used to be mine? Was your wife able to make it wearable?
Cheers
Mark

hello again Mark

alas not...
she sewed some reinforcment piece but were the pin is passed, the shearling is so fragile that i can't wear the jacket, just on the sewing line, new tears appear.
this jacket wil only be used as display

bye byeeeeeeeeee marcel

i will search the post on that try to restore and send it back to you by pm

 

[dujardin]

hello again,

i've searched my old post but no chance, surely on the old forum.
i will make the post again, see you in a few minutes
byeeeeeeeeeeee

marcel

 

[fishmeok]

Sorry to hear that Marcel- those ANJ-4's are great jackets, would love to have one in my size.

Moving along on the ANJ-3. Finished the pockets, sleeves, and epaulets. I messed up one shoulder but the other side turned out fairly well. I am going to have to take a hard look at the way the epaulets lie on the shoulders. Right now they run along the body shoulder seam which puts 5 layers of leather (folded) in my way- that's too thick to sew through consistently. will probably have to make them narrower and maybe forward just a bit.
Cheers
Mark

This is the shoulder I messed up- compare to the previous pic

 

[srivats]

Its fascinating to watch the progress of you making this jacket ... outstanding effort!

 

[dujardin]

Its fascinating to watch the progress of you making this jacket ... outstanding effort!

i agree 200% with you
if only i can do just a small part as Mark did, i would be able to restore some jackets i have; because after my bad experience with the shearling, it's no more question that i touch to a jacket, exept maybe to replace a zipper or maybe on a cotton jacket to replace knits

real good work Mark and thanks again for posting photos about evolution of your jacket

byeeeeee marcel

 

[fishmeok]

Moving along. Unfortunately I guessed the cut of the back wrong giving me a pretty sweet '80's vibe to the back of the jacket. This one is going to be strictly a practice piece. I like the collar and the liner is coming along well.
Cheers
Mark

 

[kevlarg]

wow

nice work!

keep it up!

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Mark did you pick up another machine or are you still using the Singer 78.Interesting progression of a jacket makes me appreciate jackets more .All the best Jeff

 

[fishmeok]

Hi Mark did you pick up another machine or are you still using the Singer 78.Interesting progression of a jacket makes me appreciate jackets more .All the best Jeff

I still have the 78-3, but sewing the arms into the ANJ-3 finally pushed me into upgrading. The 78-3 is a great machine and is perfect to learn on, but it only has a bout 3/16-3/8" working presser lift (which I modified to get more out of) and just isn't able to sew as reliably over the thicker areas of the jacket. I can make it work because I know the machine, but now that I am really into this I want something I don't have to baby as much. I just paid for a Singer 211G465 (large bobbin, 1/2" working presser lift, about 40 years newer) compound feed machine, should be getting it next week. It doesn't have a reverse, but that has not been a problem so far. Going to be a lot of fun trying it out.

Cheers
Mark

 

[fishmeok]

As done a it's gonna be...

I finished it a best I could today- the pattern is just too wonky to make it wearable. I hoped it would turn out better, but that's why it's a test jacket. Fun to do, but a pricey little hobby I've got going here. I'll keep this one to try different things on, and keep practicing.

Beer on one side, coffee on the other. That's how I roll...

This ended up being one odd looking jacket. I have lots of work to do.

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Mark can a compound feed machine sew in reverse ,if it can you retrofit a servo motor to drive the machine and also get more power to the head ,precise speed control and also a reverse via a switch and quiet .Gets rid of that clutch and takes off with ramping ,ie does not jump instantaniously to the set speed more of a progressive to the set speed .These type of motors have been used on CNC machines in the manufacturing industry for 20 years,lathes ,mills, grinders.Here is a kit up on ebay for a sewing machine .

http://cgi.ebay.com/SERVO-MOTOR-for-ind ... C294%3A200

Rgds Jeff

 

[fishmeok]

Compounds can sew in reverse, Singer, Consew, etc. all make versions that have a reverse feed. (like a Singer 211G156). I decided not to get a machine with reverse, don't really need it (and I got a good deal on the other one). I have heard good and bad things about the servo motors, I want to try one before I switch over.
Cheers
Mark

 

[1911A1US]

What talent sir I must say....