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LW Foster v United States G-1 litigation

Sideslip

Well-Known Member
Sorry if this has been covered before. Inserting here as it relates to vintage jackets which some of you may have in your possession.

LW Foster sued the United States Government in 1969 regarding a price adjustment they were seeking under contracts from 1958.

https://casetext.com/case/lw-foster-sportswear-co-v-united-states-2

Foster manufactured upwards of 200,000 jackets for the USN between 1949-1956, but nevertheless ended up in dispute over alleged quality defects. The transcript is not overly long, but makes for interesting reading regarding concerns that Foster had concerning the specification. I invite you to have a read as it is not heavy in legalese, and gives some insight into some of the construction challenges, although this is nothing new in any private or public sector contract. For instance (plaintiff is LW Foster):

From the commencement of its production, plaintiff complained to defendant regarding the specifications, the IQ AP and the inspections, which plaintiff felt were too stringent and based in part upon a misinterpretation of the specifications and the IQAP.

Plaintiff felt that the specification requirements for the type of seams for the joining of the knit to the leather and the rayon lining underneath were not in accordance with the best considered practices of the trade, were virtually impossible to perform without causing abrasions and cut leather which would be scored as defects, and that the operation should be performed by another method. Another problem developed with regard to the method of sewing the pocket flap to the face of the jacket. Plaintiff contended that the method prescribed by the specifications was inconsistent with the contract diagram, was "practically impossible" to accomplish and could cause damage to the jacket. After lengthy discussions with resident government inspectors, plaintiff thought that an agreement had been reached for it to perform the operation in accordance with the method it had suggested, but thereafter the government inspectors instructed plaintiff's operators to revert to the method prescribed by the specifications. In the latter part of August 1958, plaintiff complained to the contracting officer about both problems. About a month later the contracting officer authorized plaintiff to perform both operations in accordance with the methods which plaintiff had suggested.

The evidence disclosed that a government inspector, who had never before inspected goatskin or leather products and who had not previously known what a "briar scratch" and a "healed scar" were on animal hide, was scoring as major defects healed scars and healed briar scratches. He was also scoring as defects mended knits which did not affect appearance or serviceability. By letter of October 31, 1958, plaintiff took up both matters with the contracting officer who, by letter of November 21, 1958, agreed that certain healed scars and healed briar scratches should not be scored as defects and that certain others should be scored as only minor defects; and that mended knits, which did not affect appearance or serviceability, should not be scored as defects.
 

B-Man2

Well-Known Member
Interesting … never saw that before . So what we’ve discussed on a few occasions about original jackets having some wonky aspects was a part of this suit . LW Foster was fighting against being penalized for abrasions, briar scratches and scars in hides and they won the suit . This has been the subject of a few recent conversations having to do with some who want a perfect authentic reproduction BUT …… without any of the deficiencies or wonkiness of a standard original jacket. I guess thats one of the real conversations of this hobby . How far is a new buyer willing to go to have an authentic repro jacket? Will he accept that the original jackets had inconsistent but occasional production flaws and will he accept the same in his nice and new repro, all in the name of perfection and authenticity? Makes for a good conversation .
 

Sideslip

Well-Known Member
Good find, Sideslip.
This has, however, already been mentioned and discussed by DinoMartino1 and Mr. Sheeley in the past. Thanks for sharing nonetheless. Some might've missed this in the past.
See post #9 here: https://www.vintageleatherjackets.o...lothing-and-g-1-jackets-from-the-label.26620/
Thanks for that link, which I realised that I had stumbled across a little while ago, but then could not find (I am improving my bookmarking and labelling of certain posts). It would be nice to make that a sticky, or have a USN jacket section (you are probably going to tell me that that already exists :)). I am looking forward to the m422 vs m422a project being worked on as well.
 

Lord Flashheart

Well-Known Member
That's a very interesting read Sideslip and yes we are working on something to cover the sizeable scope of USN intermediate flight jackets from M-422 onward. As I think I mentioned elsewhere we're aiming at an introductory guide the like of which I would've really appreciated when USN jackets started to interest me. But rather than post something prematurely we're trying to make sure our guide doesn't perpetuate any urban myths. And we've found plenty of pretty good rabbit holes we could've gone headlong down.... but that's not the intention!
 

Lord Flashheart

Well-Known Member
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MaydayWei

Well-Known Member
Thanks for that link, which I realised that I had stumbled across a little while ago, but then could not find (I am improving my bookmarking and labelling of certain posts). It would be nice to make that a sticky, or have a USN jacket section (you are probably going to tell me that that already exists :)). I am looking forward to the m422 vs m422a project being worked on as well.

Absolutely no fault of yours, my friend. All of us here find great difficulty navigating through old threads.
They date from over a decade old, all with misleading titles, and piecemeal information!
Plus, the search function in the upper right hand corner of your screen is useless! If you type in something like G-1 it'd tell you its too much work because its too common a term! :p
Indeed, you'd have better luck on Google typing in "site:www.vintageleatherjackets.org"!
 

MaydayWei

Well-Known Member
Very well said, Flash. We want it to be accurate and insightful, but also concise and easy to follow. And that can be a struggle! o_O

And I can certainly vouch for the hard work both Flash and Jan are putting into this project to strike that balance between accuracy and detail while keeping it 'beginner friendly' and easy for even the newest people to this hobby to digest!
 

Nickb123

Well-Known Member
I’d be interested if @Maverickson or anyone who has spent time working on USN jackets could comment as to any differences not visible to the naked eye- under the liner, etc. but of course, not on here but in the upcoming analysis!
 

Lord Flashheart

Well-Known Member
So here’s a question Sideslip … do you think you could find the court papers from the parties on that case? That could be really really interesting (and way beyond a beginners guide!)
 
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