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Jeans to wear with your flight jackets ...

33-1729

Well-Known Member
Greg, I think the fibers you are referring to are known as "Slub" or "slubbyness" it has to do with how the denim was processed ( But really how it hasn't been processed) as that hair is often seared off with heat in modern manufacturing. were they advertised as "Raw Denim"?
I’m not familiar with those brand of jeans, but “hairy” and “slubby” (and “nep”) mean different items.

Hairy – Seen on unfinished or “loomstate” denim, where excess cotton fibers are seen on the denim surface. I don’t know if that is what is seen here or simply not well finished.

hairy.JPG


Slub – The thread thickness is varied along the thread and sometimes different average thickness “slubby” threads are woven together to make a slubby fabric. Slubby denim kind of feels like a Triscuit cracker. As the horizontal weft is normally not dyed, slubby denim fades along the vertical warp and at different rates, depending upon the varying thread diameter. This makes for very dramatic fades not seen in usual denim (example at end).

slub.JPG


Nep – Cotton fibers, usually broken, protrude from the surface of the denim.

nep.JPG


An example of faded slubby jeans...

nandf.JPG
 

johnwayne

Well-Known Member
Anyone tried Uniglo's salvedge reg fit jeans? Compared to reg 501's they are virtually identical minus the pocket arcuate and crazy cheap.
 

Grant

Well-Known Member
Ugh, pre-washed is s deal breaker no matter how cheap. Then again, I'm a denim nerd.
Minus Cone Mills denim as well? Another deal breaker.
 

dmar836

Well-Known Member
Just got caught up. Kudos on getting back on the subject. Going back a couple pages. Just to prevent “urban legend”, didn’t I read that the commonly heard story of Japan buying up all of the old American machines was bunk? I think it may have been in an interview with the head of Cone. This was apparently a rumor but has taken hold. I’t never made sense to me as Japanese denims typically come in 28-30” widths rolls. Historically, IIRC, even Cone produced wider rolls and they were the oldest in the USA, no?
Dave
 

33-1729

Well-Known Member
Just got caught up. Kudos on getting back on the subject. Going back a couple pages. Just to prevent “urban legend”, didn’t I read that the commonly heard story of Japan buying up all of the old American machines was bunk? I think it may have been in an interview with the head of Cone. This was apparently a rumor but has taken hold. I’t never made sense to me as Japanese denims typically come in 28-30” widths rolls. Historically, IIRC, even Cone produced wider rolls and they were the oldest in the USA, no?
Dave
The Japanese predominately use Toyoda Type-G shuttle looms for denim, while Cone Mills used mostly Draper X3 shuttle looms. American denim mills supplied Japan with denim to make the first Japanese jeans in the late 1960's, with Japan making their own denim beginning in the 1970's. The rumor of large sales of American shuttle looms to Japan is just a rumor. Toyoda was preferred due to available parts (at the time).

I believe the denim width was 28" on a Draper X3 and 31" on a Toyoda Type-G, but not certain.
 

dmar836

Well-Known Member
Thanks. It is surprising the variety of widths. 28" 29" 30" 31" 32" 50" 52" and all points in between. Makes me wonder if they push the parameters of a nominal size loom.
There are some items like the old single-seam USN dungarees of WWI-WWII that could not have been made from anything but the wide rolls. I've tried!
Dave
 

33-1729

Well-Known Member
Ugh, pre-washed is s deal breaker no matter how cheap. Then again, I'm a denim nerd.
Minus Cone Mills denim as well? Another deal breaker.
I completely understand on both points. With the closure of Cone Mills and looking forward I can wholeheartedly recommend the Fullcount & Co. 1108. With 1940's details (the golden time frame), 1966 fit (the best for many), and Zimbabwe cotton it feels more like the original Levi's I remember. More so than any other jean. They stretch a bit, so if needing a 32" get a 31". Highly recommended!
 

Grant

Well-Known Member
I have a pair. They should have a higher rise and a USN stencil on the back pocket. Not sure what type of metal buttons they used, but mine have laurel wreath metal buttons.
BTW, the HBT looks good!
 

timmbo

New Member
Bumping an old topic.

I’m struggling to find a pair of high rise (>13” front rise on a 32 waist) denim. Judging by available measurements, the best option seems to be the LVC 1944 501xx. I can’t find reliable measurements for the Lee Archives 101b 1954 Riders.

Any more suggestions?
 

johnwayne

Well-Known Member
I've had several pairs of 1944's, loved the fit but they did seem to wear poorly particularly around the crotch area ( no jokes please!) and are now so damned expensive, like £200+ - haven't checked of late but Aero stock them I think plus other Levi and Lee 'vintage'.
 

stanier

Well-Known Member
I've had several pairs of 1944's, loved the fit but they did seem to wear poorly particularly around the crotch area ( no jokes please!) and are now so damned expensive, like £200+ - haven't checked of late but Aero stock them I think plus other Levi and Lee 'vintage'.
Sadly, IMHO, Levis LVC are not the best vintage denim option. I too have had several pairs of LVC '44's and they all tore around the crotch (apart from my LVC Japan '44's which are different again.) The other thing with the LVC '44's is one of the pockets is prone to displaying rather a lot of pocket bag. And the current pocket bag itself is not the shirt cloth or HBT. Oh, and again my opinion, but on the subject of the pocket bags they are so darn shallow on most of the range.

There are much better options out there and I think Lee Vintage is certainly one of those.

It's very sad about Levi's and I wish they'd just subcontract or licence the whole LVC line to a Japanese maker to really get it right. They should lead the field, not trail...

Whilst I'm at it, why do the other items LVC have, like shirts etc, invariably have stupid colour combinations or other daft "tweaks" and a fit that's all over the place
 
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