Guide to manufacturers somewhere?

[RumRunner]

Hi gang --

As I'm gradually getting my sea legs on the site here (and to the appreciation of jackets in general), I'm noticing that there doesn't seem to be a "Flight Jackets 101" reference anywhere. In particular, I'm trying to find the reputable manufacturers; what's challenging is that it seems like most of the regular forum banter involves informal references to them.. "John", "Sean", "Platon", etc...

It's hard to find websites or information just going by a single name or casual reference. Is there a list somewhere of who each person is and which website/company they run? There are no shortage of super-premium leather jacket sellers... but it seems like this community is trustworthy and so I'd be interested to know who/what/where to look for purchases or information.

 

[mulceber]

Hi Rumrunner, to my knowledge there isn't any one place where they're all listed, or even a list of reputable dealers. But for the sake of being able to understand what's going on...

• John, JC, GW, Chappy all refer to John Chapman of Good Wear Leather. A one-man operation based in Seattle, WA, GW has long waits and high price tags, but you're paying for the craftsmanship of a true scholar of vintage jackets whose skills shoot for the stars. He's also a great conversationalist and one of the nicest guys you'll ever meet.
• RMC and McCoy refer to Real McCoy, a Japanese company that's been around forever and makes great (and extremely expensive) repros, although their more recent models, I'm told, aren't as good as they used to be. They still have people who are loyal to them though and their rarity combined with their pretty hides means that they turn heads whenever they show up. The cream of the crop seemed to be RMNZ (Real McCoy New Zealand), a now-defunct branch of the company that produced some stellar jackets up until a few years ago.
• Gary, ELC both refer to Gary Eastman's company, Eastman Leather Clothing, based in southern England. You'll also occasionally hear reference to ELMC (Eastman Leather Motorcycle Club), which is a division within the larger company that focuses on civilian jackets and mid-century biker culture.
• BR is a reference to Buzz Rickson, another Japanese company that makes all manner of WW2 and mid-century reproductions at a very high standard of quality.
• Andy, BK are both references to Bill Kelso Mfg, a Greek company that makes jackets in the same general range of quality as Eastman, but with more customization options and a better price.
• Platon is the owner of J.A. Dubow Mfg. (not to be confused with the WW2 contractor of the same name), a spinoff of BK that's also based in Athens, Platon offers jackets at the same level of quality, but without customization options and at about half the price that BK charges.
• Ken (mentioned a little less frequently these days) is the owner of Aero Leather Clothing of Scotland (also not to be confused with the WW2 contractor of the same name). Very nice jackets, although Aero's greatest strength is in "vintage inspired" original designs. Nevertheless, they're one of the best producers of accurate RAF WW2 flight jackets.
• Morten, AVI both refer to AVI Leather, which is based in Denmark, but has its jackets made in Pakistan. We're talking budget jackets that are well made and reasonably accurate.
• Shawn, 5*, FS, all refer to Five Star Leather, a budget jacket maker entirely based in Pakistan that still offers some well-made jackets and has been able to take patterns from several originals. They've always got something new in the works.

The above list is organized in descending order by how excited (I think) people on the board seem to get when they see these jackets. I did my best not to bring my own personal opinions into this, but just to look at how people react. All of the companies listed above are reputable merchants. There are also a few others that make great jackets as well, but this is a good list to be getting started with.

 

[RumRunner]

Ok wow, you get the gold star for that answer. Thanks much!

 

[Kermit3D]

Hi Rumrunner, to my knowledge there isn't any one place where they're all listed, or even a list of reputable dealers. But for the sake of being able to understand what's going on...

• John, JC, GW all refer to John Chapman of Good Wear Leather. A one-man operation based in Seattle, WA, GW has long waits and high price tags, but you're paying for the craftsmanship of a true scholar of vintage jackets whose skills shoot for the stars. He's also a great conversationalist and one of the nicest guys you'll ever meet.
• RMC and McCoy refer to Real McCoy, a Japanese company that's been around forever and makes great (and extremely expensive) repros, although their more recent models, I'm told, aren't as good as they used to be. They still have people who are loyal to them though and their rarity combined with their pretty hides means that they turn heads whenever they show up. The cream of the crop seemed to be RMNZ (Real McCoy New Zealand), a now-defunct branch of the company that produced some stellar jackets up until a few years ago.
• Gary, ELC both refer to Gary Eastman's company, Eastman Leather Clothing, based in southern England. You'll also occasionally hear reference to ELMC (Eastman Leather Motorcycle Club), which is a division within the larger company that focuses on civilian jackets and mid-century biker culture.
• BR is a reference to Buzz Rickson, another Japanese company that makes all manner of WW2 and mid-century reproductions at a very high standard of quality.
• Andy, BK are both references to Bill Kelso Mfg, a Greek company that makes jackets in the same general range of quality as Eastman, but with more customization options and a better price.
• Platon is the owner of J.A. Dubow Mfg. (not to be confused with the WW2 contractor of the same name), a spinoff of BK that's also based in Athens, Platon offers jackets at the same level of quality, but without customization options and at about half the price that BK charges.
• Ken (mentioned a little less frequently these days) is the owner of Aero Leather Clothing of Scotland (also not to be confused with the WW2 contractor of the same name). Very nice jackets, although Aero's greatest strength is in "vintage inspired" original designs. Nevertheless, they're one of the best producers of accurate RAF WW2 flight jackets.
• Morten, AVI both refer to AVI Leather, which is based in Denmark, but has its jackets made in Pakistan. We're talking budget jackets that are well made and reasonably accurate.
• Shawn, 5*, FS, all refer to Five Star Leather, a budget jacket maker entirely based in Pakistan that still offers some well-made jackets and has been able to take patterns from several originals. They've always got something new in the works.

The above list is organized in descending order by how excited (I think) people on the board seem to get when they see these jackets. I did my best not to bring my own personal opinions into this, but just look at how people react. All of the companies listed above are reputable merchants. There are also a few forum members that make great jackets as well that you'll hear about, but this is a good list to be getting started with.

Probably one of the most useful posts for new members. Even me who has been around the forum for a while, I learned some things. Thanks Jan

 

[B-Man2]

Nicely done Jan !

 

[Lord Flashheart]

Well done Jan. I think that's a pretty fair list for those who offer across the A-2 spectrum. But if you're interested in US Navy or a nice vintage utility jacket I'd add our very own

• Dave Sheeley, @Maverickson here, https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/sheeley8yv5?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 . Dave is really knowledgeable and a genuine enthusiast of USN series jackets and has delved deep into their history for the accuracy of his jackets. You will have to be patient with an order but you'll be guaranteed the accuracy and detail that comes with his passion. Dave regularly posts here and shares that passion in conversation.

 

[Micawber]

Mark at NorShor....

 

[mulceber]

Well done Jan. I think that's a pretty fair list for those who offer across the A-2 spectrum. But if you're interested in USN or a nice vintage utility jacket I'd add our very own

• Dave Sheeley, @Maverickson here, https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/sheeley8yv5?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 . Dave is really knowledgeable and a genuine enthusiast of USN series jackets and has delved deep into their history for the accuracy of his jackets. You will have to be patient with an order but you'll be guaranteed the accuracy and detail that comes with his passion. Dave regularly posts here and shares that passion in conversation.

Hah, yep, my Air Force bias is showing. Dave definitely belongs on that list, and fairly close to the top as well. While we’re at it, we should probably add:

• Steve Sellers, our own @STEVE S., a very talented guy who most people on the board know for his skills at repairing vintage and repro jackets. Nevertheless, if you talk to him he does have several offerings of his own, including at least one M-422a contract and the ultra-rare Air Force B-2 jacket.

 

[Lord Flashheart]

This list would've been really helpful when I started off in this hobby a few years back. I haven't dealt with Mark but I agree with you Steve Sellers is another skilled craftsman who knows his way round flight jackets. Come to think of it we're fortunate that we have these guys to call upon here.

 

[B-Man2]

Not trying to diminish his contributions over the years, but I think Ken (Aero) has left the forum and is no longer actively involved here.

 

[MaydayWei]

Well done Jan. I think that's a pretty fair list for those who offer across the A-2 spectrum. But if you're interested in US Navy or a nice vintage utility jacket I'd add our very own

• Dave Sheeley, @Maverickson here, https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/sheeley8yv5?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 . Dave is really knowledgeable and a genuine enthusiast of USN series jackets and has delved deep into their history for the accuracy of his jackets. You will have to be patient with an order but you'll be guaranteed the accuracy and detail that comes with his passion. Dave regularly posts here and shares that passion in conversation.

Strongly seconded, a true gentleman to boot. Busy, for sure, but definitely responsive to his clients.
His eye for detail is (I dare say) equal to JC's for USN jackets; equally as pricey too.
But at those price points you're not buying one of their jackets because you need to buy a jacket, you're commissioning what is, essentially, a wearable piece of personal design. (Cliche, I know!)

 

[Spitfireace]

Not trying to diminish his contributions over the years, but I think Ken (Aero) has left the forum and is no longer actively involved here.

I think for leather jackets custom sizing and just all around quality, and value has to be Aero. For down to the last detail cloth AAF jackets BR has to be the best. They are indistinguishable from the real issued jackets. Down to the NOS zippers. Only the small in the pocket BR label tells otherwise than if it's a WW2 issued jacket.