Getting Back To Our Roots … The Rough Wear 23380.

[B-Man2]

Hey Guys
This is another posting in the “Getting Back To Our Roots” series of posts. It’s an original Rough Wear 23380 in very nice condition for its age. While the size tag is no longer in place, I’m sure that it’s a size 48 based on the measurements and the way that it fits.
The Rough Wear 23380 contract was the 4th contract issued to the Rough Wear, Clothing Co. In 1941. Once again … in spite of previous notions to the contrary , the 23380 contract was predominantly made in cow hide. The manufacturers label was unique in that it had a smaller add on label sewn under the main label stating “Property Air Force US Army”.
The jacket had an M-41 No5 Crown zipper in bright nickel. This contract had a collar stand.
As previous posted … these original jackets are being featured in hopes that many of you will compare your repros and post comparative photos of them to see where the original and the repros match and where they are different. Additionally I’m hoping that any of you who may own original jackets will share photos of them with all of us in an effort to keep the “ Vintage “ in VLJ, alive.
Hope you guys enjoy the photos .
Cheers

 

[B-Man2]

 

[CK90]

Thanks for sharing B-man. My favourite A-2 maker, these insights are priceless, I'll be sure to keep following this series. Beautiful jacket to have in the collection. The condition of the hide still looks superb. One question, would you try and have the lining fixed, or just leave it alone?

 

[B-Man2]

Thanks for sharing B-man. My favourite A-2 maker, these insights are priceless, I'll be sure to keep following this series. Beautiful jacket to have in the collection. The condition of the hide still looks superb. One question, would you try and have the lining fixed, or just leave it alone?

At this stage I would just leave it alone. Changing a lining in an original has a some negative impacts on the jacket in terms of value , authenticity and the increased wear and tear of turning it inside out and sewing new holes in the hide when attaching the lining. It’s not a daily wearer so leaving in this condition is probably better for it in terms of care and preservation .

 

[Pa12]

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Here ya go Burt. As requested for comparison my gw23380 in Italian hh size 44.

 

[B-Man2]

Here ya go Burt. As requested for comparison my gw23380 in Italian hh size 44.View attachment 141799View attachment 141801View attachment 141803View attachment 141805View attachment 141807

Pete
That’s about as close to an original 23380 as you can get. John Chapman has a gift when it comes to duplicating these original contracts.
As you look at the different sections and match them up with the photos of the original they are spot on .

 

[Silver Surfer]

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sweeeeeeeet!

 

[Silver Surfer]

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sweeeeeeet

 

[Pa12]

Pete
That’s about as close to an original 23380 as you can get. John Chapman has a gift when it comes to duplicating these original contracts.
As you look at the different sections and match them up with the photos of the original they are spot on .

No doubt rw is johns specialty. Though all his stuff is perfect. As I said before, thought I’d sworn off roughwear for life until I got this. It’s about 2 years old. If some kind of catastrophe befell me and had to go down to one jacket, this would have to be the one.

 

[Pa12]

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Is your original at all “creaky “?

 

[mulceber]

Fantastic series, Burt, this is my favorite one yet.

 

[B-Man2]

Is your original at all “creaky “?

Not really …. 80 years has pretty much taken the noise out of the hide

 

[Pa12]

Yeah, not really a fair comparison I guess. The Italian hh is pretty stiff and creaky. Reminds me of old school motorcycle jackets. It is getting better though. Just can’t sneak up on anyone yet

 

[B-Man2]

Yeah, not really a fair comparison I guess. The Italian hh is pretty stiff and creaky. Reminds me of old school motorcycle jackets. It is getting better though. Just can’t sneak up on anyone yet

A couple of good rainy days will help to cure that .

 

[Micawber]

A thing of beauty Burt.

 

[bseal]

Envious. Enjoy!

 

[caddyd]

Name the contract! Here's an original Rough Wear in top shape for an eighty year old. The leather is totally solid without any cracks or peeling and still has its original Crown zip and waist knit in good condition. It probably

was a war issue as it has name and squadron stitching through the leather but not the re-lining. But its missing its original label so what contract?

 

[ButteMT61]

Burt, you're just trying to send me over the edge, right?
I guess the only solution is a place in the queue...I'm done.

 

[Silver Surfer]

With rws, it’s hard to pin down conclusively. A coupla guide posts. For the most part, 1401s had shorter pocket flaps, and sometimes longer collar lobes, and or slightly larger collars. Most, but not all 27752 contracts were made with darker russet or seal hides. The 23380 were made with the additional property of label, though it is entirely possible that some were made with out it. Many of the earlier rws were made with knits that were slightly orangy brown……but not all. Point being, there are tells, but as mentioned, they are not conclusive.

 

[mulceber]

Name the contract! Here's an original Rough Wear in top shape for an eighty year old. The leather is totally solid without any cracks or peeling and still has its original Crown zip and waist knit in good condition. It probably View attachment 141813View attachment 141815View attachment 141817View attachment 141819View attachment 141821View attachment 141823was a war issue as it has name and squadron stitching through the leather but not the re-lining. But its missing its original label so what contract?

My guess would be 1401-P - my reason being the crown zipper (seen on 1401-P all the time, 23380 commonly, 27752 very rarely) and the brown thread (always seen on the early RWs, whereas 23380 and 27752 were more commonly seen with OD thread).