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Full grain or top grain

2BM2K

Well-Known Member
Good article.
I would say that this article is wrong.

As I understand it Full Grain is the full width of the skin, that is to say the skin is not split, which makes it tougher than the other types.

In the Eastman manual, page 38, there is a cattle hide specification which lists the three types of leather;
Type 1 full grain
Type 2 split
Type 3 top grain.

If the skin is split then effectly there are two skins to make leather from (top grain and split), hence cheaper.

Thickness of leather is determined by processing it to the required thickness, I believe by rollering.
 
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mulceber

Moderator
As I understand it Full Grain is the full width of the skin, that is to say the skin is not split, which makes it tougher than the other types.
That's not the understanding I've used and seen used. From my understanding, Full grain means that the surface, which is the toughest part of the leather, has not been sanded or in any way "corrected." You can still removed material from the underside, and this is regularly done. This graphic is helpful:
Leather-types-and-layers-an-overview.png
 

Chandler

Well-Known Member
@2BM2K -- Google it up. There are more than that one article with the same answer out there.

FWIW -- the bottom half of a hide is what's referred to as "split grain" (split from the full grain) and is used for suede most often.
 

Chandler

Well-Known Member
I guess I must have gotten different search results to you.
Guess @mulceber did too.

Don't know what to tell you -- I wish we had a shrug emoji.

Full grain = the outermost layer of leather that hasn't been modified. Maybe some full grain hides haven't been split, but most have because it's a way to even out the thickness and weight of a hide.
 

Silver Surfer

Well-Known Member
I know what the aaf specs called for, chrome tanning, but I am convinced that many of the pre and early war a-2s were veg aniline tanned. most notably the first three rw contracts, and pre war aeros.
 
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mulceber

Moderator
I know what the aah specs called for, chrome tanning, but I am convinced that many of the pre and early war a-2s were veg aniline tanned. most notably the first three rw contracts, and pre war aeros.
I confess I'm not very well versed in the different dying techniques - is it impossible to aniline dye chrome-tanned leather?
 

Smithy

Well-Known Member
Yeah, in the boot world Horween Chromexcel is everywhere. I suspect the author was thinking about that.

Don't forget Jan that Horween CXL FQHH was (and I'm pretty sure still is) Aero's biggest selling leather option for it's jackets.

I can't add much more apart from the fact that the tradition of chrome tanned leather for flying jackets/coats dates back to 1912 and the introduction of the RFC's first flying coat pattern when chrome tanned leather was specified. This was probably due to chrome tanned leather having better water resistant properties. British motoring and flying coats of the era were also made from chrome tanned hides, presumably for the same reason.
 

Juanito

Well-Known Member
I confess I'm not very well versed in the different dying techniques - is it impossible to aniline dye chrome-tanned leather?
No. Tanning (vegetable or chrome) is what is done to an animal skin to prevent it from decomposing naturally. A tanned skin is leather.

The aniline, semi-aniline, or pigment finish is what is applied to the outside of the leather; in the case of jackets--nothing more than paint. It doesn’t matter if the jacket was vegetable tanned or chrome tanned.

Your typical WWII is a chrome tanned, drum dyed leather, with a pigment finish.
 
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mulceber

Moderator
No. Tanning (vegetable or chrome) is what is done to an animal skin to prevent it from decomposing naturally. A tanned skin is leather.

The aniline, semi-aniline, or pigment finish is what is applied to the outside of the leather; in the case of jackets--nothing more than paint.
Yeah, I knew that much. Vic's post seemed (to me at least) to imply that it being veg-tanned meant it couldn't be aniline dyed, which sounded wrong to me.
 

2BM2K

Well-Known Member
Guess @mulceber did too.

Don't know what to tell you -- I wish we had a shrug emoji.

Full grain = the outermost layer of leather that hasn't been modified. Maybe some full grain hides haven't been split, but most have because it's a way to even out the thickness and weight of a hide.

I have found where I was going wrong, there are two types of full grain leather both called full-grain, one is the whole skin and the other is mainly just the grain. As in this diagram;

full-grain.jpg


I was under the impression that there was just the whole width variant.
 

Chandler

Well-Known Member
I was under the impression that there was just the whole width variant.
FWIW -- my continuing research has yielded 50/50 results on information -- some websites even report both definitions in the same essay (without explanation).

I guess it's one of those "depends on who you ask" questions.
 

Pa12

Well-Known Member
FWIW -- my continuing research has yielded 50/50 results on information -- some websites even report both definitions in the same essay (without explanation).

I guess it's one of those "depends on who you ask" questions.
Internet :confused:
 
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