Deliveries from GW

[Aeroga]

Folks, I hope everyone is keeping well. It's been a long time since I last posted a thread given there have been some changes in life. Anyway, my passion for military jackets is still going strong and a few years ago I have started to become selective in building a wardrobe with specific military jacket makers only. Goodwear now accounts for ~95% of my jackets, leaving the a handful of old/special editions from Japanese brands. Thought I would share some of the new jackets John made for me in 2023.

As we know, John makes some truly wonderful jackets. Whilst I have been obsessed with the leather jackets, I started to appreciate the cloth jackets more and more. Not only they can be very 'stylish' and versatile for many different occasions, they are also very, very comfortable. Once you dive into a conversation with John you would be positively surprised (again) by his attention to details, and also the wide range of fabric choices - endless possibilities and combinations.

Without further adieu...

 

[Pilot]

The finest of the finest!
Thanks for sharing!

 

[Dany McDonald]

Impressive jacket's. Love the L-2's

 

[CBI]

amazing!!!!

 

[Ritchy]

Amazing jackets, thanks for sharing

 

[Aeroga]

Updating the details

Gordon & Ferguson AN-J-3A

Since I have got my hands on my first navy jacket (Willis & Geiger AN-J-3A) it has pretty much been my go-to jacket when it comes to travelling. The bi-swing back design gives the maximum arm movement and it's warm enough for slightly cooler weather. Easy to pair with anything, t-shirt, shirt, jeans, khaki pants, and makes any ordinary outfit looks cool and debonair. The only drawback is that the horsehide is not light and all that pieces that go into the construction of a navy jacket makes it quite heavy. If I wear it, it's not a problem but if I were to hold it the weight would start to wear me out after a while.

So in the quest of a lighter navy jacket I discussed with John a number of options (M-422, M-422A, AN-6552). Each option has varying details and it's truly a joy to learn about the differences of navy jacket (a new world from A-2 jackets that's giving me the excitement). However perhaps not uncommon amongst enthusiasts, we often have that one thing that we can't let go of - be it a detail, a pattern or a maker. For me it's the uniqueness and rareness of AN-J-3A and upon speaking with John for an hour on the phone we confirmed a G&F AN-J-3A . Whilst AN-J-3A from other makers (Monarch) look great we thought the G&F version looks best when worn. This is also in part due to him having a very rare original to copy, and in my size.

I opted for a lighter colour mouton (from Laskin that also tanned a lot of the sheepskin for WWII shearling jackets) and the Eurasian goatskin that John had strongly recommended (he shared the experimentation in getting the color right - mixing a dye that had 2/3 brown, and 1/3 green). Together they created a nice contrast and in time could resemble the period navy jackets even more with an exposure to sunlight and patina development.

It would be an understatement to say I was excited when I received the jacket. The leather is perfect to touch with a decent aroma, and the mouton is buttery soft and changes its color when brushed in different direction. The jacket build is solid, the combination of the stitching reinforcement and the quality of the goatskin and lining would easily let this jacket weather harsh elements. I am personally a fan of patinaed and shined leather, which explains my love for Shinki and Horween Shell but this goatskin being muted is very easy on the eyes (especially to others who are not, well, as obsessed about leather jackets as I do) and it is very resistant to creases and scratches.

The jacket is very comfortable and most importantly A LOT LIGHTER than its horsehide counterpart. This achieved my goal and would now be my alternate choice for a travel jacket. I am sure time will prove that this jacket will become my top-3 mostly worn jackets. There is an interesting observation for me, which started as a concern and then turned into a point of desirability - the fit. I have been accustomed to wearing my W&G AN-J-3A and it is very close-fitting and short, and there is no blouson effect at all. The F&G jacket even in my own size fits roomier in the torso and longer (by about 2' in jacket length) which made me unsure of the fit. Obviously this couldn't be a mistake (I mean, it's John we are talking about) I reached out to John to seek his thoughts which I am quoting below:

"If you can believe it, I actually make the lower torso shorter and tighter than the original I took apart. It was your size, and had the same shoulder/sleeve shape, but I knew the lower torso would be bigger than what you prefer. I made the torso 1" short, and then took off about 2" from the lower torso width."

When you read a response like this, you would come to realise and acknowledge that your jacket maker actually knows what you need and want better than yourself! He's also shared period photos of the G&F jackets (M422A etc) and you could easily tell that the fit, is on point. Amazing how not only he nailed the details and craftsmanship but also was able to recreate the same silhouette of a jacket made half a century ago. Simply Amazing.

F&G

W&G

 

[Sideslip]

That is a fantastic jacket and a wonderful review, thank you! I have been discussing a G&F ANJ-3A with JC, so your description is just wetting my appetite.

 

[Aeroga]

That is a fantastic jacket and a wonderful review, thank you! I have been discussing a G&F ANJ-3A with JC, so your description is just wetting my appetite.

Thanks, it really is a fantastic jacket. Depending on your preference for the fit, the G&F could well serve as a all-rounder. The roomier torso is perfect for layering and you don't need to worry about trading comfort for style.

You may have seen this, but this was the trigger for me. https://www.goodwearleather.com/Gordon_Chapman_ANJ3A_44/

I love the leather though it is now run out - if you were to ask for my suggestion I would no doubt recommend the Eurasian goatskin. It's subtle and I have learned that in many occasions this proves to be a good thing. Some of the leather on my jackets is so unique (heavy patina and grain) that it makes me think about what to wear them with.

 

[ZuZu]

Updating the details

Gordon & Ferguson AN-J-3A

Since I have got my hands on my first navy jacket (Willis & Geiger AN-J-3A) it has pretty much been my go-to jacket when it comes to travelling. The bi-swing back design gives the maximum arm movement and it's warm enough for slightly cooler weather. Easy to pair with anything, t-shirt, shirt, jeans, khaki pants, and makes any ordinary outfit looks cool and debonair. The only drawback is that the horsehide is not light and all that pieces that go into the construction of a navy jacket makes it quite heavy. If I wear it, it's not a problem but if I were to hold it the weight would start to wear me out after a while.

So in the quest of a lighter navy jacket I discussed with John a number of options (M-422, M-422A, AN-6552). Each option has varying details and it's truly a joy to learn about the differences of navy jacket (a new world from A-2 jackets that's giving me the excitement). However perhaps not uncommon amongst enthusiasts, we often have that one thing that we can't let go of - be it a detail, a pattern or a maker. For me it's the uniqueness and rareness of AN-J-3A and upon speaking with John for an hour on the phone we confirmed a G&F AN-J-3A . Whilst AN-J-3A from other makers (Monarch) look great we thought the G&F version looks best when worn. This is also in part due to him having a very rare original to copy, and in my size.

View attachment 119311View attachment 119327

I opted for a lighter colour mouton (from Laskin that also tanned a lot of the sheepskin for WWII shearling jackets) and the Eurasian goatskin that John had strongly recommended (he shared the experimentation in getting the color right - mixing a dye that had 2/3 brown, and 1/3 green). Together they created a nice contrast and in time could resemble the period navy jackets even more with an exposure to sunlight and patina development.

View attachment 119325View attachment 119321View attachment 119323

It would be an understatement to say I was excited when I received the jacket. The leather is perfect to touch with a decent aroma, and the mouton is buttery soft and changes its color when brushed in different direction. The jacket build is solid, the combination of the stitching reinforcement and the quality of the goatskin and lining would easily let this jacket weather harsh elements. I am personally a fan of patinaed and shined leather, which explains my love for Shinki and Horween Shell but this goatskin being muted is very easy on the eyes (especially to others who are not, well, as obsessed about leather jackets as I do) and it is very resistant to creases and scratches.

View attachment 119333

The jacket is very comfortable and most importantly A LOT LIGHTER than its horsehide counterpart. This achieved my goal and would now be my alternate choice for a travel jacket. I am sure time will prove that this jacket will become my top-3 mostly worn jackets. There is an interesting observation for me, which started as a concern and then turned into a point of desirability - the fit. I have been accustomed to wearing my W&G AN-J-3A and it is very close-fitting and short, and there is no blouson effect at all. The F&G jacket even in my own size fits roomier in the torso and longer (by about 2' in jacket length) which made me unsure of the fit. Obviously this couldn't be a mistake (I mean, it's John we are talking about) I reached out to John to seek his thoughts which I am quoting below:

"If you can believe it, I actually make the lower torso shorter and tighter than the original I took apart. It was your size, and had the same shoulder/sleeve shape, but I knew the lower torso would be bigger than what you prefer. I made the torso 1" short, and then took off about 2" from the lower torso width."

When you read a response like this, you would come to realise and acknowledge that your jacket maker actually knows what you need and want better than yourself! He's also shared period photos of the G&F jackets (M422A etc) and you could easily tell that the fit, is on point. Amazing how not only he nailed the details and craftsmanship but also was able to recreate the same silhouette of a jacket made half a century ago. Simply Amazing.

F&G
View attachment 119335

W&G
View attachment 119337View attachment 119315View attachment 119319

You couldn't ask for a better fit. I think part of the reason the horsehide jacket feels heavier is that it's tighter. Amazing jacket!

 

[Falcon_52]

Thanks for sharing. It just looks right on target! And I learned something: I didn't realize that Laskin was still making mouton lamb skin.

Wear it in good health!

 

[Aeroga]

Thanks for sharing. It just looks right on target! And I learned something: I didn't realize that Laskin was still making mouton lamb skin.

Wear it in good health!

Thanks. Just to clarify I believe the mouton was a NOS. Was told that they were a huge company but I don't think they are still running.

May be wrong but I'll let others chime in!