Cuff Replacement Tutorial

fishmeok

Well-Known Member
I've been meaning to do this for a while, so here goes...

First, you need to either remove the old cuffs, or make a new jacket (whichever you prefer). Turn the jacket inside out and open up the liner underarm seam on one of the sleeves about 3-4 inches (do this in the middle of the sleeve). Reach in throught the hole and grab the far side of the jacket, then REALLY turn the thing iside out. Cut the threads and remove the old cuffs.

CompDown691.jpg


CompDown696.jpg


Note in the above picture how the jacket is laid out- with the liner on top of the leather and the arms of both laid flat with no twisting. Keep this relationship in your head, this is important to make sure you keep everything lined up!

Place the new cuff inside the leather sleeve opening with the bottom end pointing toward the armpit. Strech the cuff to match the opening and secure the cuff to the leather (using clips, staples, etc.)

CompDown698.jpg


CompDown699.jpg


Sew the cuff to the leather 1/8 inch from the edge, I find it works best to sew with the leather side up. This is a job that any reasonably stout home machine should be able to do, but you better practice first!

CompDown701.jpg


CompDown705.jpg


Now lay the jacket flat again with the liner on top- match up the liner sleeve with the leather sleeve face to face and with no twisting. Secure the liner to the jacket the same way as above. Sew the liner on 1/2 inch from the edge of the sleeve opening (ABOVE the previous stitch- this is the one that determines where the cuff will fold out).

CompDown697.jpg


CompDown711.jpg


CompDown706.jpg


That's it- now reach back through the hole you made in the liner sleeve and pull the jacket rightway round. Sew up the opening in the liner and topstitch to taste.

CompDown712.jpg


CompDown713.jpg


CompDown716.jpg


Cheers
Mark
 

deeb7

Gone, but not forgotten.
Brilliant, thanks Mark ... the forum needed that. I think it was bgbdesign who posted the cuff tutorial on the old forum, and of course it was lost.
 

fishmeok

Well-Known Member
I remember reading over that one several times trying to figure out how to do cuffs... seems so simple to me now... :lol:
Cheers
Mark
 

better duck

Well-Known Member
Hey Mark,
Great tutorial, even for us folks who have no urge to ever do this ourselves. It was something I always wondered about: How Do They Do It?

The end result of this tutorial is, that the thread is visible on the outside of the sleeve. What would you have to do to have it hidden, as with most A2s? Keep even closer to the egde of the leather, so that it remains folded into the sleeve?
 

deeb7

Gone, but not forgotten.
better duck said:
The end result of this tutorial is, that the thread is visible on the outside of the sleeve. What would you have to do to have it hidden, as with most A2s? Keep even closer to the egde of the leather, so that it remains folded into the sleeve?

Peter, the last photo is with optional added top stitching ... two pictures above shows how the job is finished for most A-2's.
 

fishmeok

Well-Known Member
Strengthwise it's probably not necissary, but topstitching gives it a more finished look.

Cheers
Mark
 

zoomer

Well-Known Member
That topstitching - which also went around the waistline - was the first feature to go when A-2s began to be made in any great numbers, around 1939. Of course, the Navy jackets kept it. Still have it.

I would think it gives a bit of insurance against the knits pulling away due to all the yanking one does on them - especially when stretching the jacket while it's on!
 

ausreenactor

Well-Known Member
I crap myself whenever I stitch a pair of chevrons on a Class A jacket, the sleeve 'donut' is heck of a hole compared to the
cuff of a leather jacket. That is a fine motor skill set you have there!!

Nice work!!

Couchy
 

dmar836

Well-Known Member
Great stuff! Any tips on stitching to the original holes? Is it easier to just sacrifice a few mm and run new stitching......... or is that sacrilege?
Thanks for sharing all your great work!!
Dave
Kansas City, USA
 

fishmeok

Well-Known Member
I'll try to remember to take some pics next time i put a jacket together to show the lining. On originals i think you are better off trying to match the original holes, if you have too many, too close the leather will tear like perforated paper.
Cheers
Mark
 

ausreenactor

Well-Known Member
Mark..

Have located a cheap ELC with mega grain and shot knits. How much for a replacement set and labor? :cool:

Couchy
 

fishmeok

Well-Known Member
Hi Couchy-

I don't do repair work, too busy making new jackets-

Back in the day I did my first repair ever completely by hand, while parked in front of the TV. It's time consuming, but relaxing...

Cheers
Mark
 

ausreenactor

Well-Known Member
Mark & David..

Thanks for the responses...Will try our other makers. Thought about hitting ELC up, but they would want the
world. It is one of theirs, maybe I could try a warranty claim? :D

Take care Gents..

Couchy
 

tomtom42

New Member
Hi there,

thanks a million for the detailed instructions + pics!
I successfully replaced the knits on an older Schott G1 following your tips.

Without a sewing machine I did the new seams by hand - not that hard, just takes some time...
So - if you haven't got a machine - this is totally doable the hard way :=)

It took me two evenings to replace the cuffs, unfortunately the jacket is too small for me,
so I donated it to my younger sister - she likes it.

br,
Tom
 

Tenfifteen

Member
I know.... I'm digging up old thread, but what a hell of an interesting tuto ! Thanks Photobucket, the pictures are no longer online :( would anyone have kept them ? (yes, let me believe in miracles ^^ )
 
  • Like
Reactions: Art
Top