A-2 seam question

[2jakes]

The sleeve seam which is not top-stitched
is usually aligned with the body side seam , as in this Cable :

Alternatively, some makers construct their jackets with an
inset sleeve where the seam is rotated
from the body side seam, as in this Monarch:

What is the significance of these two different constructions ?
I will be ordering a repo A-2 leather jacket with standards
that are close to the originals & your answers will help me
to further understand which one I may order. Thanks.

 

[2jakes]

Over 40 views & no reply ?
Perhaps I posted in the wrong category ! :roll:

 

[Skip]

I viewed it but honestly have no idea. You could ask Mr Chapman, or Mr Kelso, as they should be able to offer their rather experienced opinion

 

[Dr H]

The choice configuration is a practical one - the inset/rotated seam (used by Doniger, amongst others) gives a more natural arms sleeve shape (slightly more curved) and more 'reach' in use. When you raise your arms ahead of you the jacket rides up less.
However, it is a more time consuming seam to produce (the construction is more complicated to align) and might have bedevilled a production line under pressure..
I should go the additional mile and read Gary's book to see whether the contract sizes bear out my assumption that this was more likely to have been used in small run contracts (e.g. Doniger, ca. 5,000) rather than larger (e.g. Perry, ca. 50,000) where the simpler, faster construction would win out.

 

[Jaguar46]

Here is the link to quote I put over on the FL

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6706&hilit=inset+sleeve

 

[Skip]

Always having had Navy (bi swing back) jackets I've never realised the difference. Does the inset sleeve just make it more comfortable in the sleeve joint (armpit) area, or does that comfort extend to the shoulder and back as well?

 

[Dr H]

Hi Matt
Hmmm...bit of both, but mainly the shoulder/armpit.
It's not in the same league as the bi-swing back for comfort though...

 

[Skip]

Thanks Ian, guess I'll find out soon enough, just put an order in for an BK Aero, and from memory dont think they are inset.