• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Discussion “A Better Fighting Garment…” - A Beginner’s Guide to the US Navy’s WWII-era and later Intermediate Flight Jackets

Lord Flashheart

Well-Known Member
INTRODUCTION

There have been various threads on VLJ which have listed the US Navy contracts from the M-422 to G-1 series of leather flying jackets. This thread is an attempt to pool the information into a beginners guide to sit alongside the A-2 contract dates thread as a resource on the Forum. This thread borrows heavily from an original thread named, “How to date US Military Clothing and G-1 jackets from the label” by our fellow members Dinomartino1 and Mr. Dave Sheeley ( @Maverickson ). It too will borrow heavily from Mr. Roger Moore’s original resource. We’d place on record our sincere appreciation and thanks to them for their time, effort, and scholarship on this subject.

This guide has been put together by MaydayWei, Mulceber and Lord Flashheart with input from B-Man2 and Jorgeenriqueaguilera. Together with our own research we have sought to identify and acknowledge references and sources as best we can. Putting together a beginners guide to this series of jackets has not been a task for the faint hearted and any errors or omissions are ours.

In compiling this guide we have sought advice and opinion from Dave Sheeley and John Chapman at various points of uncertainty or ambiguity. They have, without fail, kindly helped us to understand so much more about the design and evolution of the Navy’s intermediate flight jacket than we could or should include in a beginners guide. We also want to give our thanks to the people, some of them also writers for this project, who shared pictures with us of their gorgeous flight jackets: @Jorgeenriqueaguilera , @Stony, @bazelot, @B-Man2 , John Chapman, Dave Sheeley ( @Maverickson ), @mulceber , and @Lord Flashheart . This would be a very boring thread without these wonderful photos to illustrate it.

We’d also like to thank all of our fellow Forum members who have helped us with this work by sharing their knowledge. If you have more information please do share that here.

AN OVERVIEW

Discussion of jacket types in this hobby, among Navy jackets and beyond, frequently boils down to a discussion of hard and fast differences between jacket types: B-15 vs. B-15A, L-2A vs. L2B, etc. This impulse is understandable, but it actually doesn’t get us very far when discussing the earlier Navy jackets. We spent about a day trying to discover exactly what structural differences there were between the M-422 and the M-422a, and while we quickly found several different answers, all of them later turned out to be false, or only true of some contracts.

The reality is, prior to about 1960, manufacturers who won a contract to make an intermediate flight jacket for the Navy were provided with a sketch and a list of specifications that the jacket had to meet. As with the A-2 jacket, Navy contractors had latitude to make the garments as they saw fit. Provided the finished product met the specifications, nobody much cared if the manufacturers had used a particular type of stitch to sew on the pocket flaps, or had widened the pocket in order to make extra room for the pencil pocket. Deviations from the specification were regularly made and allowed. But whereas on the army side, the practice frequently was to change jacket designations only when they needed to make a real structural change to the jackets (nobody would ever mistake an A-2 for a B-10), changes to Navy jacket designations could come from as small a change as an edit to the wording of the contract for buttons. Sometimes there were real changes in materials or design, but just as frequently we’ll find cases like the W&G M-422A, which has much less in common with other jackets in that series than it does with W&G’s previous M-422 contract.

In short, when you’re looking at Navy Intermediate Flight Jackets, it pays to look less for differences between jacket designations and more for differences between contracts & manufacturers.

STRUCTURE

The evolution of the US Navy’s (USN) primary intermediate flight jacket can be traced through 12 iterations or specifications. This guide is therefore structured into 12 specifications split over 3 parts: WW2, the 50s, and the Vietnam era. At the end, there will be a short note on NATO stock numbers, and other useful links and resources on the VLJ. The specifications in chronological sequences are:

  • [1] M-422 [1940]
  • [2] M-422A [1940 - 1943]
  • [3] AN-J-3 [1943]
  • [4] AN 6552 [1943]
  • [5] AN-J-3A [1943]
  • [6] 55J14 (AER) [1947 - 1950]
  • [7] MIL-J-7823 (AER) [1951 - 1960]
  • [8] MIL-J-7823A (AER) [1961]
  • [9] MIL-J-7823B (WEP) [1961 -1963]
  • [10] MIL-J-7823C (WEP) [1964 - 1966]
  • [11] MIL-J-7823D (WP) [1967 - 1970]
  • [12] MIL-J-7823E (AS) [1971 - Present]

This thread is soon to be updated by the authors. There will be a Guide and a parallel discussion thread.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Lord Flashheart

Well-Known Member
SUPERSEDED BY 2.0
Part 1 - The Second World War - Pre and Early WW2 jackets

1. M-422 [1940]

The M422 jacket is the great-grandfather and progenitor to the basic formula of the USN intermediate leather flight jacket as we know it today. The design is understood to have originated in Philadelphia Navy Yard in 1938. Sharp mouton collar, action-pleated bi-swing action back, scalloped leather pocket flaps, single-ply rib racked knits, internal wind-flap with USN marked underneath the collar in stencil. The M422 is the AVG (American Volunteer Group) flight jacket. Most famously worn by pilots who were sent to fight on behalf of the Chinese government against Japan before America entered WW2 shortly after Pearl Harbour.

The most loose pattern among the three M-422 makers is the Willis & Geiger (W&G) and this is the most boxy of the M-422 jackets. The Switlik is much less so and the Monarch slightly less loose and boxy again than the Switlik. A few key features of the M-422 include a generally wider collar than later types and an absence of arched horizontal stitching on the collar reverse. The pre-WW2 USN leather flying jackets have also been shown to have been stitched in silk. The pencil holder detail on the left (as worn) pocket varies between makes. The Switlik pencil holder is a sleeve of leather inside the pocket whereas the Monarch has a cut-out slot in the body of the pocket. Monarch changed the pattern of their throat latch in contracts after M-422.

SPECIFICATION: M-422ContractComments/ source/links
Switlik Parachute and Equipment Co. CONTRACT-No. 76640Likely awarded Late 1940 or early 1941. Delivered January to March 1941.Only 247 jackets were delivered to the USN. [Sheeley]. Pencil sleeve in pocket.

https://www.vintageleatherjackets.o...-parachute-and-equipment-company-m-422.24872/
Monarch Mfg. Company CONTRACT-No. 79633Awarded 12/40 completed 2/41Pencil slot in pocket.
WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT-No. N156s16957Contract 1940[roughwear VLJ]
WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT-No. S-74892Contract 1940[roughwear VLJ]


Switlik M-422: Photos courtesy @Maverickson

M-422 Switlik Sheeley 1.JPG


M-422 Switlik Sheeley 2.JPG


M-422 Switlik Sheeley 3.JPG


Switlik Pocket .JPG


My Switlik M-422 Worn.JPG


M-422 Switlik Sheeley 4.JPG






 
Last edited by a moderator:

mulceber

Moderator
SUPERSEDED BY 2.0
Picking up where Phil left off...

2. M-422A [1940 - 1943]

The first point to make is that there do not appear to be hard and fast differences between the previous (M-422) designation and this one. There do appear to have been some changes to increase sleeve length and to body length, collar and pockets by specific manufacturers but with a new group of makers, save for Wills & Geiger, the evolution is not obvious.

Most commentators describe increased sleeve length as the critical difference between M-422 and M-422A. This evolution of the USN intermediate flight jacket design saw Willis & Geiger lengthen the jacket sleeve from their M-422 contract. Pocket width on the M-422A is also thought to be a point of difference with the M-422 series but with the H&L Block and Willis & Geiger M-422A contracts the pockets are of equal width. The Gordon & Ferguson contracts have a wider left pocket to accommodate the stitched pencil slot. Arched horizontal stitching on the collar reverse, absent on the M-422, features on the Gordon & Ferguson and Edmund Church contracts but not on the H&L Block or Willis & Geiger contracts. As near as we can tell, the only consistent difference between the M-422 and its successor is the switch to cotton thread, whereas the earlier jackets had had silk thread. Even here, there appear to have been exceptions.

Specification: M-422AContractComments/[source]
WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT NO. 85956First contract awarded to any maker for M422A jackets in the 1941 fiscal yearPencil slot in pocket [roughwear VLJ]
GORDON & FERGUSON CO. CONTRACT NO. 88860Awarded 6/41, completed 1/42
GORDON & FERGUSON CO. CONTRACT NO. NXs.416Awarded 3/42 completed 5/42https://www.vintageleatherjackets.o...on-co-spec-m-422a-intermediate-jackets.25262/
GORDON & FERGUSON CO. CONTRACT NO. NXs.416-A1942?
FRIED, OSTERMAN CO. CONTRACT NO. 1406 EXT.AAwarded 3/42, completed 1/43
FRIED, OSTERMAN CO. CONTRACT NO. 1405-AAwarded 3/42, completed 7/42?
H.&L. BLOCK CONTRACT No. Nxsa-5134Awarded 5/42 completed 8/42No horizontal collar stitching
EDMUND T.CHURCH CO. INC. CONTRACT No. NXs-5133Awarded 5/42, completed 11/42
WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT-Nos.290AContract 1943[roughwear VLJ]
WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT-N Xs-290Contract 1943[roughwear VLJ]

Gordon & Ferguson M-422A, courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera
D49C5781-901D-47C8-A37F-2E935A2EF806.JPG

DB80760A-F565-42AB-952D-14097D5DE553.JPG

C0AAD3F7-293E-4A84-B65E-875E42918ABD.JPG

80ED2329-A3C7-419B-A9E5-E049E0EEECD9.JPG

E338800D-9D72-4D5D-A453-449C813ACD4D.JPG

BA62E1AF-6B59-4F0A-A46E-249E715D6715.JPG

2333AF19-6B8C-4F60-A81D-5C7C5018C3AD.JPG

295F8493-6AE1-48A4-812A-5B7647539C0B.JPG

DE4CFC70-7C1F-4A7E-9709-9F189CFBF1A5.JPG

436C5312-7635-434F-88FE-21284EEF2769.JPG
 
Last edited:

London Cabbie

Well-Known Member
Part 1 - The Second World War - Pre and Early WW2 jackets

1. M-422 [1940]

The M422 jacket is the great-grandfather and progenitor to the basic formula of the USN intermediate leather flight jacket as we know it today. The design is understood to have originated in Philadelphia Navy Yard in 1938. Sharp mouton collar, action-pleated bi-swing action back, scalloped leather pocket flaps, single-ply rib racked knits, internal wind-flap with USN marked underneath the collar in stencil. The M422 is the AVG (American Volunteer Group) flight jacket. Most famously worn by pilots who were sent to fight on behalf of the Chinese government against Japan before America entered WW2 shortly after Pearl Harbour.

The most loose pattern among the three M-422 makers is the Willis & Geiger (W&G) and this is the most boxy of the M-422 jackets. The Switlik is much less so and the Monarch slightly less loose and boxy again than the Switlik. A few key features of the M-422 include a generally wider collar than later types and an absence of arched horizontal stitching on the collar reverse. The pre-WW2 USN leather flying jackets have also been shown to have been stitched in silk. The pencil holder detail on the left (as worn) pocket varies between makes. The Switlik pencil holder is a sleeve of leather inside the pocket whereas the Monarch has a cut-out slot in the body of the pocket. Monarch changed the pattern of their throat latch in contracts after M-422.

SPECIFICATION: M-422ContractComments/ source/links
Switlik Parachute and Equipment Co. CONTRACT-No. 76640Likely awarded Late 1940 or early 1941. Delivered January to March 1941.Only 247 jackets were delivered to the USN. [Sheeley]. Pencil sleeve in pocket.

https://www.vintageleatherjackets.o...-parachute-and-equipment-company-m-422.24872/
Monarch Mfg. Company CONTRACT-No. 79633Awarded 12/40 completed 2/41Pencil slot in pocket.
WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT-No. N156s16957Contract 1940[roughwear VLJ]
WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT-No. S-74892Contract 1940[roughwear VLJ]


Switlik M-422:

View attachment 71066

View attachment 71067

View attachment 71068

View attachment 71069

View attachment 71070

View attachment 71072





Thankyou for this. Being a USN G-1 Fanboy this is as informative as Gary Eastman A2 book. I know it’s bandied about but with the Knowledge and Collections and Photos on this forum it seems almost Criminal that an utterly in-depth analysis of EVERY flight/ military/ civilian jacket type Book has not been made. It would be a big task, but it’s sitting there waiting.
To all those involved in these in-depth jacket posts that people have spent large amounts of private time amassing for our information and enjoyment, Thankyou. The recent Irvin one with John and Burt has raised my antenna I hope there will be more on fleeces. Lord Flasheart
INTRODUCTION

There have been various threads on VLJ which have listed the US Navy contracts from the M-422 to G-1 series of leather flying jackets. This thread is an attempt to pool the information into a beginners guide to sit alongside the A-2 contract dates thread as a resource on the Forum. This thread borrows heavily from an original thread named, “How to date US Military Clothing and G-1 jackets from the label” by our fellow members Dinomartino1 and Mr. Dave Sheeley ( @Maverickson ). It too will borrow heavily from Mr. Roger Moore’s original resource. We’d place on record our sincere appreciation and thanks to them for their time, effort, and scholarship on this subject.

This guide has been put together by MaydayWei, Mulceber and Lord Flashheart with input from B-Man2 and Jorgeenriqueaguilera. Together with our own research we have sought to identify and acknowledge references and sources as best we can. Putting together a beginners guide to this series of jackets has not been a task for the faint hearted and any errors or omissions are ours.

In compiling this guide we have sought advice and opinion from Dave Sheeley and John Chapman at various points of uncertainty or ambiguity. They have, without fail, kindly helped us to understand so much more about the design and evolution of the Navy’s intermediate flight jacket than we could or should include in a beginners guide. We also want to give our thanks to the people, some of them also writers for this project, who shared pictures with us of their gorgeous flight jackets: @Jorgeenriqueaguilera , @Stony, @bazelot, @B-Man2 , John Chapman, Dave Sheeley ( @Maverickson ), @mulceber , and @Lord Flashheart . This would be a very boring thread without these wonderful photos to illustrate it.

We’d also like to thank all of our fellow Forum members who have helped us with this work by sharing their knowledge. If you have more information please do share that here.

AN OVERVIEW

Discussion of jacket types in this hobby, among Navy jackets and beyond, frequently boils down to a discussion of hard and fast differences between jacket types: B-15 vs. B-15A, L-2A vs. L2B, etc. This impulse is understandable, but it actually doesn’t get us very far when discussing the earlier Navy jackets. We spent about a day trying to discover exactly what structural differences there were between the M-422 and the M-422a, and while we quickly found several different answers, all of them later turned out to be false, or only true of some contracts.

The reality is, prior to about 1960, manufacturers who won a contract to make an intermediate flight jacket for the Navy were provided with a sketch and a list of specifications that the jacket had to meet. As with the A-2 jacket, Navy contractors had latitude to make the garments as they saw fit. Provided the finished product met the specifications, nobody much cared if the manufacturers had used a particular type of stitch to sew on the pocket flaps, or had widened the pocket in order to make extra room for the pencil pocket. Deviations from the specification were regularly made and allowed. But whereas on the army side, the practice frequently was to change jacket designations only when they needed to make a real structural change to the jackets (nobody would ever mistake an A-2 for a B-10), changes to Navy jacket designations could come from as small a change as an edit to the wording of the contract for buttons. Sometimes there were real changes in materials or design, but just as frequently we’ll find cases like the W&G M-422A, which has much less in common with other jackets in that series than it does with W&G’s previous M-422 contract.

In short, when you’re looking at Navy Intermediate Flight Jackets, it pays to look less for differences between jacket designations and more for differences between contracts & manufacturers.

STRUCTURE

The evolution of the US Navy’s (USN) primary intermediate flight jacket can be traced through 12 iterations or specifications. This guide is therefore structured into 12 specifications split over 3 parts: WW2, the 50s, and the Vietnam era. At the end, there will be a short note on NATO stock numbers, and other useful links and resources on the VLJ. The specifications in chronological sequences are:

  • [1] M-422 [1940]
  • [2] M-422A [1940 - 1943]
  • [3] AN-J-3 [1943]
  • [4] AN 6552 [1943]
  • [5] AN-J-3A [1943]
  • [6] 55J14 (AER) [1947 - 1950]
  • [7] MIL-J-7823 (AER) [1951 - 1960]
  • [8] MIL-J-7823A (AER) [1961]
  • [9] MIL-J-7823B (WEP) [1961 -1963]
  • [10] MIL-J-7823C (WEP) [1964 - 1966]
  • [11] MIL-J-7823D (WP) [1967 - 1970]
  • [12] MIL-J-7823E (AS) [1971 - Present]
Jan, Burt, John, Jorge, Dave, Flash, Everyone else who has collaborated and spent time and energy on these forum info jacket threads Thankyou. This forum with its mass of info, photos, collections, knowledge, history and experience is a sleeping masterpiece on Naval, Military & Civilian jackets waiting to be collated in a book.
As a USN fanboy this thread will be as informative as Gary’s A2 book to me.
Thankyou Fellas (and tutting Wives)…
Would love to see more on Fleeces like John & Burts recent one…
 

Lord Flashheart

Well-Known Member
Thanks Cabbie and Micawber, glad this is of interest. To be honest this thread grew out of a personal frustration that all the good information on USN jackets here was fragmented and the scale of it made it hard for someone new to the subject like myself to make sense of. After a conversation with @MaydayWei about that and with @mulceber we felt there ought to be something on the Forum that gave a newbie something similar to what exists for A-2. This really has been a team effort and without them it wouldn't have happened. Without Jorge's pics and some wise words from Burt this wouldn't be half as interesting. "Chapeau guys".
 

Lord Flashheart

Well-Known Member
UPDATE 1. M-422 - Wills & Geiger. Photos courtesy of @Maverickson

When we posted our summary on the M-422 we hadn't managed to find a Forum member with a Willis & Geiger jacket. We obviously didn't look hard enough! @Maverickson got in touch and has us let us share pics of his Willis & Geiger M-422 Contract N156s16957 - So thank you very much Dave for completing that piece of this jigsaw. Note the short set sleeves.


W&G Size 42 M-422.jpg


W&G M-422 Size 42 Opened.jpg


W&G M-422 Size 42 Reverse.jpg


W&G M-422 Label.jpg


This probably won't be the last out of sequence post and if you have an example of a contract you can share pics of that we don't post please do get in touch with any of us. Thanks!
 
Last edited:

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

I wanted to clarify what I understand as the difference between W&G's M-422, M-422A and AN model jackets. Besides correcting the (short) sleeve length as seen on their version of the M-422 there is little if any appreciable recognizable difference between their M-422, M-422A or AN model jackets with few exceptions.

The main differences between models is the type of thread that was utilized used to stitch the jackets. All of which began with silk, then switched cotton and finally ending up with nylon. The big change came with their 288-35805 AN-J-3A and dead last (thank you Grant) WW-2 era contract.

On that last contract they gave up their earlier design that was used throughout their M-422, M-422A and AN contracts. Besides switching to 100% nylon thread and utilizing horse hide in lieu of goat, the overall design was changed with that last AN-J-3A 288-35805 contract. Only truly recognizable as a W&G because they maintained the same pocket, collar, sleeve and interfacing configurations. Otherwise built using a totally unique W&G design and only seen used by W&G for that single contract.

Cheers, Dave
 
Last edited:

mulceber

Moderator
SUPERSEDED BY 2.0
3. AN-J-3 [1943] - The Flight Jacket that Wasn’t

If not for a sudden intervention in 1943, the Navy likely would have continued ordering the M-422A indefinitely. That intervention came in the form of an act of Congress, which mandated that, going forward, the Army Air Forces and the Navy’s Bureau of Aeronautics (BuAero) should use the same flight equipment. This entailed the creation of a whole new intermediate flight jacket and winter flying jacket that would be used by both branches. There were a whole bunch of definite or probable obstacles to the implementation of this order, almost none of which the people who drafted it had probably anticipated:

  • The Navy’s M-422A was significantly more expensive to produce than the Army’s A-2, and was within the Navy’s budget only because the BuAero had far fewer airmen than the AAF. A jacket that would satisfy the Navy’s design preferences would not have been within the Army’s budget.
  • The AAF was already dissatisfied with their intermediate flight jacket because it wasn’t warm enough for high altitude flight, while the BuAero was so satisfied with theirs that the basic design hasn’t changed since then.
  • There was a long history of rivalry between the Army and Navy.
  • The chief of the AAF, Hap Arnold, was already by this point campaigning hard to have his Air Force become a separate branch of the military. Equipping his men with the same gear used by the BuAero would have been seen by him as a tacit admission that his organization was on the same level as the BuAero: a division within a branch of the military, and not a branch unto itself.
Nevertheless, the two organizations made a go of it. The proposed plan would have seen the creation of an intermediate flight jacket with a drawing number of AN-6552, and a type number of AN-J-3, and a winter weight flight jacket (drawing number AN-6553, AN-J-4). Test contracts were sent out to three or four companies, among them Willis & Geiger and Monarch. None of these contracts seem to have been much more detailed than “give us a compromise between the M-422A and the A-2, and give it a leather collar.” The resulting jackets were all over the map. Some had epaulets, some didn’t. Some had a bi-swing back, others had a plain back. Some had an interior wind flap, while others had an exterior storm flap. The Army got as far as signing the documents to close the book on the A-2 (see below), and create the AN-J-3. They also introduced the AN-J-3 to the Class-13 Catalog. Before more than a few hundred test jackets could be made, however, the AAF pulled out of the project to pursue the B-10. The test jackets that had already been constructed had their labels removed, probably at the factory, to denote that they were not government-issued equipment, and the companies used what was left of the leather they'd been given to make AN-J-3s for the private market. There is some evidence to suggest that some of the remaining jackets were issued to airmen. Nevertheless, the Navy, left without a partner that they needed to placate, steered the AN-6552 AN-J-3 project back toward the established design that they were already happy with.

AAF Order Changing the A-2 from Standard to Limited Standard Classification:

A8EFA9A9-B5D0-4C08-95F2-E15326F3F07C.jpeg


Willis & Geiger AN-J-3 (knit cuffs replaced), courtesy of @mulceber
77616476-6AC8-412B-A795-072B72BFD876.jpeg

CB41F193-5E65-4C6B-B125-2E9FE8A27494.jpg

B46B320D-D7CF-41CD-830C-4F00966A472D.jpeg

Detail shot of the epaulets showing trace holes from where rank insignia may have been attached
22B742D9-1F40-49AF-96F3-3EC2E0EBA5BE.jpg

01B89810-F9D7-455D-98C0-CA5D3BB7F8C3.jpg


Monarch AN-J-3, courtesy of @Maverickson
1724BF21-1AE5-4D11-A3A0-36BEB9AEFF1F.JPG

5902D56E-4C62-41CA-8E93-05FB28CB811C.JPG


Detail shots of a Private Purchase AN-J-3, sold through Abercrombie & Fitch. Photos courtesy of John Chapman. More such photos can be found here.

Brand label applied by A&F after they purchased these jackets
label.jpg

Talon M-43 zipper with a v for victory. Probably not mil-spec.
talon_zipper.jpg
 
Last edited:
Top