“A Better Fighting Garment…” 2.0 - A Revised Guide to the U.S. Navy's Intermediate Leather Flight Jackets

[Lord Flashheart]

Part 3 - The Vietnam War - The 60s and 70s


8. MIL-J-7823A (AER) [1961]
A noticeable difference from the 7823 to the 7823A is the change from a no.5 blackened Conmar main zipper to a no.10 blackened Talon ‘rectangle’ zipper. From the 7823A onwards, all G-1s would continue to use a no.10 zipper for enhanced durability (later specifications would have either a ‘paperclip’ style Scovill or Conmar No.10). Additionally, following from the trend set by late 50s 7823s, all G-1 jackets from the 7823A onwards will bear rounded pocket flaps (a simplification of the previously (but more ornate) scalloped or triangular pocket flaps). As Roger Moore notes, “n 1961, the A… series jacket was introduced and only two manufacturers had contracts: Ralph Edwards Sportswear [previously Cagleco] and Irvin B. Foster.” Moore, as do many collectors, therefore considers the A series to be one of the scarcest of the 7823 series jackets.

SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823A (AER)	Contract dates	[Source]/Links/Comments
RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. QM(CTM)8833C-61	Probable Fiscal Year 1961	[FG 125] Manufacturer formerly known as Cagleco Sportswear.
IRVIN B.FOSTER & SONS SPORTSWEAR CO., INC. CONTRACT NO. DA 36-243-QM(CTM)8834-C-61	Probable Fiscal Year 1961	[FG 125] See notes for MIL-J-7823 (AER) and L.W. Foster Sportswear Co lawsuit

 

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Mil-J-7823A Ralph Edwards Sportswear, inc. NO. QM(CTM)8833C-61, photos courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

Mil-J-7823A - Ralph Edwards Sportswear, inc. NO. QM(CTM)8833C-61, photos courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

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Mil-J-7823A - Ralph Edwards Sportswear, inc. NO. QM(CTM)8833C-61 (continued), photos courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

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Mil-J-7823A - Irvin B. Foster & Sons NO. DA 36-243-QM(CTM)8834-C-61, photos courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

[Lord Flashheart]

9. MIL-J-7823B (WEP) [1961 - 1963]

From the 7823B onwards, all G-1 flight jackets have a no.10 ‘paperclip’ style zip (blackened for the 7823B and brass for the C onwards). This replaced the rectangular Talon zipper of 7823A. The 7823B is otherwise almost identical to its predecessor. One noteworthy difference, however, is that the zipper tape on the Irvin B. Foster jackets from this series is frequently placed an inch or two (2.5-5 cm) above the bottom of the zipper box, instead of being flush with the bottom of the wind flap (see below for an example).

SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823B (WEP)	Contract dates	[Source]/Links/Comments
RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. QM(CTM) 10276-C-61	Probable Fiscal Year 1961	[FG 125]
RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. QM(CTM) 11214-C-62	Probable Fiscal Year 1962	[FG 125]
IRVIN B. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-435-C-62	Probable Fiscal Year 1962	[FG 125] Some jackets from this contract have been found with a seam running down the middle of the back panel.
RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO.DSA- -1040-63-C	Probable Fiscal Year 1963	[FG 125]
IRVIN B. FOSTER SPTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-2071-63-C	Probable Fiscal Year 1963	[FG 125]

 

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Mil-J-7823B - Ralph Edwards (QM(CTM) 10276-C-61), photos courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

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Mil-J-7823B - Ralph Edwards (QM (CTM) 11214-C-62), photos courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

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Mil-J-7823B - Ralph Edwards (QM (CTM) 11214-C-62), continued, photos courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

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Mil-J-7823B - Ralph Edwards (QM (CTM) 11214-C-62), photos courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

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Mil-J-7823B - Ralph Edwards (QM (CTM) 11214-C-62), continued, photos courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

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Mil-J-7823B - Irvin B. Foster (DSA-1-435-C-62) photos courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

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Mil-J-7823B Ralph Edwards (DSA-1-1040-63-C), photos courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

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Mil-7823B - Irvin B. Foster (DSA-1-2071-63-C), photos courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

[Lord Flashheart]

10. MIL-J-7823C (WEP) [1964 - 1966]

The 7823C specification was introduced in 1964 and lasted till 1966. As Moore notes, “[t]hese are often considered by collectors to be the last of the ‘good’ jackets as they are the last [specification] to universally have the mouton collar…”, goatskin, and single-ply rib-racked knits. The easiest way to identify between a 7823B and a 7823C specification is the zipper. The 7823B has a blackened ‘paperclip’ no.10 zipper whereas from the 7823C specification onwards the ‘paperclip’ no.10 zippers were left in naked brass.

SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823C (WEP)	Contract dates	[Source]/Links/Comments
STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-3271-64-C	Probable Fiscal Year 1964	[FG 125]
RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-4342-64-C	Probable Fiscal Year 1964	[FG 125]
IRVIN B. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-8825	Probable Fiscal Year 1965	[FG 125]
IRVIN B. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-8826	Probable Fiscal Year 1965	[FG 125] Some of these jackets were made so that the pleats of the bi-swing back were separate panels from the main back panel of the jacket, while on others the bi-swing back was part of the back panel.
RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-9366	Probable Fiscal Year 1965	[FG 125]
IRVIN B. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-100-598	Probable Fiscal Year 1965
STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. CONTRACT NO. DSA 100-599	Probable Fiscal Year 1965	[FG 125]
IRVIN B. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-100-0308	Probable Fiscal Year 1966	[FG 125]

 

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Mil-J-7823C - Ralph Edwards Sportswear DSA-1-4342-64-C, photos courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

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Mil-J-7823C - Ralph Edwards Sportswear DSA-1-4342-64-C, continued, photos courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

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Mil-J-7823C - Irvin B Foster DSA-1-8826, photos courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

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Mil-J-7823C - Ralph Edwards Sportswear DSA-1-9366, photos courtesy of @Spitfireace

 

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Mil-J-7823C - Irvin B Foster DSA-100-598, photos courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

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Mil-J-7823C - Irvin B Foster DSA-100-598, continued, photos courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera