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Leather Dyeing methods confusion

Doug C

Member
Hey I've been wondering if anyone can straighten me out on something I've been wondering for a while regarding the dyeing process of leathers. Apparently , aniline finishes can be either drum dyed or hand applied (hand rubbed) and possibly sprayed on also. Now doesn't the method that the coating was applied affect the way a particular leather wears? For instance, we know that sprayed pigmant "re-dyes" will eventually, partially wear away and expose an undertone, so will the same happen for aniline finishes? Then if so, how could that be possible on a leather that has been "drum dyed", as I have always assumed that the drumming process caused the dye to completely soak through to the underside of the hide... and therefore wouldn't wear away at all. Let's say were talking about veg-tanned leather for the sake of this conversation. Thanks.
 

deeb7

Gone, but not forgotten.
Doug C said:
... we know that sprayed pigmant "re-dyes" will eventually, partially wear away and expose an undertone, so will the same happen for aniline finishes?

No ... aniline leather is uncoated, so there's no finish to wear away. Even if only a clear coating is applied, it then becomes semi-aniline leather.

In my experience (with shoes), aniline leather just tends to darken with use.
 

Doug C

Member
So, all the old leather jackets that we see with a partially worn away finish, would not be aniline leathers then? I guess they're pigment finished, or is there another finishing process that I'm missing. It's just that there seems to be alot of vintage jackets with that worn away look to them and I assumed (I know, not a good idea ;) ) that most of the vintage leathers were aniline. Maybe they just weren't drum dyed to the point of complete saturation ?
 

deeb7

Gone, but not forgotten.
Doug C said:
So, all the old leather jackets that we see with a partially worn away finish, would not be aniline leathers then? I guess they're pigment finished ...

Yes, they're pigmented leather, it's the topcoat that wears away. It may still be aniline dyed.


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