How to measure a jacket for chart comparison.

[London Cabbie]

 

[Skyhawk]

It's a pretty good guide however, the sleeve measurement is not correct.
You need to go along the outside arc if you want tp get the correct measurement. Or at least one that is comparable to what most collectors and jacket MFG's use.

That is good advice on the chest but to get the true measurement, you have to pull the jacket tight in your hands with the tape. You will never get the actual measurement with just laying a loose tape on top of a jacket. It will always come up short of the actual number.

Courtesy of Platon:|

 

[ZuZu]

It's a pretty good guide however, the sleeve measurement is not correct.
You need to go along the outside arc if you want tp get the correct measurement. Or at least one that is comparable to what most collectors and jacket MFG's use.

That is good advice on the chest but to get the true measurement, you have to pull the jacket tight in your hands with the tape. You will never get the actual measurement with just laying a loose tape on top of a jacket. It will always come up short of the actual number.

Courtesy of Platon:|
View attachment 122661
View attachment 122659

I disagree with this. The actual wearing length of the sleeve is the "WRONG" measurement. The other way just gives a false length that doesn't correspond to reality. With A2s some of the jackets with inset sleeves have a much longer outer length than is normal. The "WRONG" way gives you the length that will be at your wrist. This is the kind of silly "expertise" that confuses people. Like the Iron Heart shoulder measurement in the video- just dumb.

 

[caddyd]

That could very well be true. All I know is whenever I don an original A-2, 40 feels to small, 44 feels to big but 42 fits just right.

 

[Greg Gale]

There is no right or wrong, the point is that when you compare the sleeve measurement in the size chart with another jacket that you already have, they should both be measured the same way.

 

[CombatWombat]

As a orang-utan in a past life.....I can say that the best way to get a accurate measurement is following the INSIDE the arms as well as outside (since we bend our arms rather than have them straight)
If you just do one side it won't be accurate

 

[Brettafett]

Regarding sleeve length
Its taken me years and too much $$$ to mention, but the ONLY way I've found to accurately measure sleeve length, at least to get it right for me...
Is to measure the underarm, from pit to end of leather...
I've found this measurement to be consistent across all the jackets that fit me well, regardless of outer sleeve measurement... No matter the maker or contract.

I've also found that outer sleeve measurements get real confusing dep who you are trying to speak too.

It may be an odd thing, but it works for me.

 

[Chandler]

So, we need to discard the way tailors have been measuring customers and making clothes forever? Yeah, wadda they know?

 

[Dany McDonald]

Ugh...no confusion here...

I don't see any problems with following the curvature of the sleeve, as long as the measurement chart is clear and matches. Ideally an image like the one provided by Platon or a diagram gives guidelines for the customer to follow.

Actually, a creases factor to take in account would be appreciated.

D

 

[Dany McDonald]

Is to measure the underarm,

Brett, that's an interesting comment. Do you have to take the pit 2 pit in account to get a good idea if the fit you are looking for?

Like for the outside measure, the shoulder length across, has an impact in where the sleeve end will finally rest, at least for me.

I always ask that under sleeve measure for N-2 and N-3 because of the raglan sleeve.

D

 

[Micawber]

Regarding sleeve length
Its taken me years and too much $$$ to mention, but the ONLY way I've found to accurately measure sleeve length, at least to get it right for me...
Is to measure the underarm, from pit to end of leather...
I've found this measurement to be consistent across all the jackets that fit me well, regardless of outer sleeve measurement... No matter the maker or contract.

I've also found that outer sleeve measurements get real confusing dep who you are trying to speak too.

It may be an odd thing, but it works for me.

View attachment 122769

Don't forget the knits - where applicable of course.

Nigh on fifty years ago I was taught to measure garments, and people, by a time served tailor and cutter who was in his late seventies. He had been in the trade all his working life and what he did not know about tailoring was really not worth knowing. A genuine old school craftsman and gentleman. Thank you Mr Jackson, it was a pleasure to know and work with you.

 

[Brettafett]

Hey Dany,

I take all measurements into account and do have a pit to pit preference, generally std for size 42s
The underarm measurement is the one measurement that seems to be consistent across all my jackets. If this measurement is right, the sleeve length is generally right.
The above assumes same size and a similar pit to pit.

 

[Dany McDonald]

Same here all measurements are taken into account for a final GO or Too Risky.

And then style and pattern are very important. With A-2's, I noticed that the arm hole position + set-in sleeve geometry will greatly play on the fit and feel.

The science of measurements....

D

 

[ZuZu]

Regarding sleeve length
Its taken me years and too much $$$ to mention, but the ONLY way I've found to accurately measure sleeve length, at least to get it right for me...
Is to measure the underarm, from pit to end of leather...
I've found this measurement to be consistent across all the jackets that fit me well, regardless of outer sleeve measurement... No matter the maker or contract.

I've also found that outer sleeve measurements get real confusing dep who you are trying to speak too.

It may be an odd thing, but it works for me.

View attachment 122769

Hey Dany,

I take all measurements into account and do have a pit to pit preference, generally std for size 42s
The underarm measurement is the one measurement that seems to be consistent across all my jackets. If this measurement is right, the sleeve length is generally right.
The above assumes same size and a similar pit to pit.

I still think this is not true- underarm and outside of arm both give measurements specific to the cut of the sleeve and the jacket. A jacket with a large armhole measured underam is going to be different from one with a high armhole. It's geometry. A measurement from the tip of the shoulder to the bottom of the sleeve will give you the closest approximation of sleeve length as the jacket is worn.

 

[Skyhawk]

Whatever method you use is fine, as long as it matches up with what everybody else is arriving at for measurements of the arms. Most collectors and Mfg's of vintage style jackets are using the outside arc measurement. Not during construction necessarily but as a finished jacket measurement. If you measure straight down the arm it will be about 1 to 1.5" shorter than the outside arc. If your measurements are consistently short of what others are getting, then you need to use a formula to be on the same page as others. Otherwise the measurements will always be off. I have been through all of this several times with different leather shops that have made my jackets. Literally every time the measurements were 1" short on the arms it was because they were using the straight down method. Once we established that, we were speaking the same language /using the same scale, and all discrepancies disappeared.
Going a step further, if you see these mistakes a lot you begin to identify bad measurements in auctions Usually it's in the chest and arm length. I have found most people are not getting the full chest measurement. It is usually a bit wider than their measurement. You can usually tell when they use the straight down method for the arms as well if you know what the length is supposed to be.

 

[London Cabbie]

actually this sounds logical.