Good wear sizing question

[WingAndaPrayer]

Hey gang, I’m just about the pull the trigger on my first ever good wear and I wanted a little bit of everyone’s opinion. I’ve never had an original or a repro this fancy so I want to get it right on the first go.
Basically I’m looking for one that won’t ride up on my neck when I sit/zip up the jacket. The collar clasp keeps catching my beard on that dubow I have and it drives my crazy, while the SMW lays flat and it’s never been a issue.
Secondly, I don’t like the epaulettes to “bow up” when I move around. The more flat they lay the better imo.
Third, I like a glossy finish on the leather, not much for the dull look, which contracts were know for having that look?
JC said he can do me any jacket I want, and suggested offhand the Dubow and Cable, but I want to avoid the trimmer cut patterns like the monarch and early webers. I prefer a loose and more ergonomic fit.
So with that in mind, what would you all recommend?
Also in the last email from Mr Chapman he said he has a new dark russet cow hide AND knits. Here’s what he said about it as well as pics of the new leather in a test jacket

I wanted to first finish a jacket with the dark russet shade, and show you what it's like. I got a shipment of it, and I like it a lot. I can get this regularly, and I've seen they've had it for years.

This is a United Sheeplined, and it's made with a new format of knit from a new company I recently found. They're better wool knits than anything I've ever found before in 16 years, including the Japanese format of knits used by Real McCoys.

 

[mulceber]

Congrats on the forthcoming Good Wear!

Third, I like a glossy finish on the leather, not much for the dull look, which contracts were know for having that look?

TBH, I don't know of any of them that were. Most A-2 leather had a pigment dye, which tends to produce a rather matte appearance. There were a few contracts that had semi-aniline dyes, but I'd just ignore that issue when deciding on a contract and get a glossy finish if that's what you like.

Of the two contracts John suggested, I'd go for the Cable - iirc, you've already got several Dubows from Five Star (although John's Dubows are several steps above that), and Cable Repros are much rarer, so your jacket will be more distinctive among repros. Their pattern is also just more typical of the A-2 style, imho. Here's what John has to say about the Cable 27753:

The pattern is the most comfortable fitting of all that we make, with large wide shoulders, large arm holes, roomy arms, and a roomy body. It's not a baggy pattern, but looks smart.

 

[Chandler]

If anyone's going to be the best help with this, JC is your man. Get a tailor to make some good measurements (instructions on the GW web site) and forward them to John -- he'll know just what to do.

 

[Brettafett]

Cables a good suggestions.
Those knits look fantastic and I will certainly be requesting them on my jacket.

 

[mulceber]

Those knits look fantastic and I will certainly be requesting them on my jacket.

John told me about them as well - apparently the company that makes them is a US gov't contractor, which seems very appropriate for an A-2 repro.

 

[WingAndaPrayer]

If anyone's going to be the best help with this, JC is your man. Get a tailor to make some good measurements (instructions on the GW web site) and forward them to John -- he'll know just what to do.

I asked him what the measurements were on his original size 52 dubow, I figure since I know my measurements it would be easier just to tell him where to add or subtract and inch. But the more I think about it, the more I’m leaning towards a Cable jacket in the leather/knit combo like the one from the picture above.

 

[mulceber]

I think from what you've described of your build (especially the broad shoulders bit), Cable will be a great choice.

 

[Chandler]

I asked him what the measurements were on his original size 52 dubow, I figure since I know my measurements it would be easier just to tell him where to add or subtract and inch. But the more I think about it, the more I’m leaning towards a Cable jacket in the leather/knit combo like the one from the picture above.

Talking with John in the past, he seems to like to fit a jacket more with traditional, tailor-like measurements than measuring off another jacket.

The difference in cut and assembly between a Dubow and Cable could be drastically different -- even comparing 2 jackets labeled the same size.

Giving your measurements helps JC know just what he's fitting. Being the end-all repro, I know I'd want to take every step possible to make it right (at least that's *my* plan).

 

[Micawber]

A set of accurate measurements taken by a tailor, or someone who actually knows how to measure someone up properly, will help both you and JC a lot. Also bear in mind and specify what you a likely to wear most often under the jacket.

 

[blackrat2]

I think on his site you can request loose or trim..as the others have said measure up and let him guide you

 

[B-Man2]

If you’re looking for a “one and done” with getting it perfect the first time , why mess around ? Go to a tailor get measured properly and give both yourself and JC a proper shot at making that happen. Otherwise it’s going to be a crap shoot as to getting it perfect on the first attempt .

 

[Chandler]

Otherwise it’s going to be a crap shoot as to getting it perfect on the first attempt .

No sense spending the money without doing it right.

 

[Tattoo A2]

I would say go with the Cable also, its a much roomier jacket than the rest...I do love that new dark russet also, I put in an order to John last month for the no name Knoph, its a less known contract, I have enough Roughwears, Cables, Poughkeepsies,Perrys, Aeros.... I need help or a bigger closet.

 

[B-Man2]

I would say go with the Cable also, its a much roomier jacket than the rest...I do love that new dark russet also, I put in an order to John last month for the no name Knoph, its a less known contract, I have enough Roughwears, Cables, Poughkeepsies,Perrys, Aeros.... I need help or a bigger closet.

Rob
Do I see a size 46 or 48 sale sometime in the near future ?

 

[Chandler]

I would say go with the Cable also, its a much roomier jacket than the rest...I do love that new dark russet also, I put in an order to John last month for the no name Knoph, its a less known contract, I have enough Roughwears, Cables, Poughkeepsies,Perrys, Aeros.... I need help or a bigger closet.

Damn man, you're making me think I should have asked more for that original GW!

 

[Tattoo A2]

Rob
Do I see a size 46 or 48 sale sometime in the near future ?

Getting rid of anything good Burt,lol

 

[B-Man2]

Getting rid of anything good Burt,lol

I was talking about you moving some stuff on