Differences between the ELC House B3 and ELC Roughwear B3

[Radz108]

While I wait ever so patiently to receive my ELC RW B3 from ELC UK (4 weeks and counting ), I was wondering what are the major differences between ELC's standard B3 and their RW B3?
Other than the obvious colour, tanning, dyeing differences, are there any other differences as well.

1. Due to different tanning and dyeing, which is more durable or are they the same?
2. Is the length of the wool/fur the same in both jackets or is one thicker than the other?
3. Do they fit similarly or do they fit differently?
4. Other than the colour differences, why would one pick one over the other? ie: better quality, nicer materials? etc.

For me, I chose the RW B3 because I liked the honey coloured wool and the reddish hue of the hides more than the standard seal version with yellow wool. Since this would be my very first jacket from ELC, I am very excited to experience this premium jacket maker's wares

 

[MikeyB-17]

Re: Differences between the ELC House B3 and ELC Roughwear B

According to my fairly ancient Golden Book, the Roughwear B-3 has a triangular gusset at the sides where the adjuster straps are, that later model B-3's didn't have. Also the Roughwear has a chain hanger whereas the standard has a leather one. Also at that time, the Roughwear came with a NOS WWII Talon zip as opposed to a repro-these days of course they use the repro Crown zip. There may be a few other little details which are different. Otherwise, apart from the colour, I doubt the shearling is going to be any different in terms of durability etc. One would presumably pick one over the other for the privelige of having a reproduction of a specific contract, as opposed to a generic one using characteristics of a number of contracts. ELC use the longer production time and more labour-intensive, 'hand-dying' process for the production of the redskin shearling as a reason for the higher price tag. I'm sure I remember the Roughwear B-3 being originally referred to as a 'limited edition', but that was over ten years ago and they're still making them!

 

[Radz108]

Re: Differences between the ELC House B3 and ELC Roughwear B

According to my fairly ancient Golden Book, the Roughwear B-3 has a triangular gusset at the sides where the adjuster straps are, that later model B-3's didn't have. Also the Roughwear has a chain hanger whereas the standard has a leather one. Also at that time, the Roughwear came with a NOS WWII Talon zip as opposed to a repro-these days of course they use the repro Crown zip. There may be a few other little details which are different. Otherwise, apart from the colour, I doubt the shearling is going to be any different in terms of durability etc. One would presumably pick one over the other for the privelige of having a reproduction of a specific contract, as opposed to a generic one using characteristics of a number of contracts. ELC use the longer production time and more labour-intensive, 'hand-dying' process for the production of the redskin shearling as a reason for the higher price tag. I'm sure I remember the Roughwear B-3 being originally referred to as a 'limited edition', but that was over ten years ago and they're still making them!

Thanks for that info. One more question. From what I read, the redskin B3s were vegetable tanned and the later B3s were chrome tanned. Is there a benefit to veg tanning vs chrome tanning other than authenticity as stated in the ELC website?

 

[MikeyB-17]

Re: Differences between the ELC House B3 and ELC Roughwear B

Others may interject with better knowledge than me at some stage, never having owned a redskin jacket myself, but my guess is that in everyday use, not a lot.

 

[Falcon_52]

Re: Differences between the ELC House B3 and ELC Roughwear B

I think the main difference in the tanning methods is the time it takes to complete. Chrome tanning completes much faster than vegetable tanning, which is probably why everyone went to it after 1940 (to keep up with demand and to keep cost down).

When I chose to buy the Rough Wear B-3 last year - instead of a standard B-3 - my deciding factor was the "old world" element. I really have an affinity for the older design flight jackets like B-1, B-2, Irvin, and early B-3 and the Rough Wear B-3 just had that extra element of taking me back to the late 1930s.

You won't be disappointed once you get the jacket in your hands.

Noel

 

[Silver Surfer]

Re: Differences between the ELC House B3 and ELC Roughwear B

the new "house" b-3 in broken grain seal, is now veg tanned as well.

 

[Dani-B]

Re: Differences between the ELC House B3 and ELC Roughwear B

- Roughwear B-3 has no Inspection stamps on the collar straps,
- Roughwear B-3 has the two piece back panel (pre-war design), the ELC "House" B-3 is the later, four piece version,

I own a ELC B-3 in seal brown, broken grain since two years and wear it regularly on cold winter days here in switzerland (and also at holidays at finnish countryside on -25°C!) - It's a great, perfect jacket and a gorgeous piece of craftsmanship - I like it very much!

Cheers
Dani