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Arnoff AN-J-3A

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

Recently, I came up with AN-J-3A made by Arnoff Manufacturing & what appears to be one of the more rare flight jackets I've ever encountered. For the most part the jacket exhibits little or no wear and most of the visible blemishes present are more than likely the result of the leather coming in contact with the presser foot of the sewing machine. This jacket has some unusual features that I would like to share with the forum members.

ArnoffFont.jpg


ArnoffBack.jpg


ArnofffLabel.jpg


As seen below the jacket's pocket flaps are nicely scalloped.

ScallopedPocketampNon-BezeledButton.jpg


However, if you look closely you will notice that the buttons used on this Arnoff jacket are totaly unique as they are void the bezel found on all other USN jackets.

ArnoffButtonCloseUp.jpg


Another unique feature of this jacket was found in the collar. If you notice in the following photographs the mouton is attached ever so slightly further back on the fold. This appears to be the result of additional leather that continues much further beyond where the mouton attached than seen on most all other USN jackets. I might add that this also result in creating some difficulty when raising or standing the collar up right.

049.jpg


ArnoffStencil-1.jpg


ArnoffThroatLatch.jpg


What I find very odd is there are two completely altogether different threads used to put the jacket together. The top stitching is also set with a noticeabely larger stitch count. That change of stitch count and thread can be seen in the provided photos seen below.

ArnoffFrontLowerHalf-1.jpg


StitchTransitionatRightZipperExtension.jpg


Another oddity can be found with the leather zipper extensions. While not an altogether unique construction feature to this maker but it's use is still unusual to a USN jacket. I am aware that this same technuque is used on the California Sportswear contract is the leather zipper extensions are a one piece of folded leather

OnePeiceFoldedZipperExtension.jpg


Although I question the method of this next aspect of this Arnoff jacket, another unique feature seen on this jacket is how the jacket's wind flap is pieced together.

056-1.jpg


WindFlapBasePiecedConstruction-1.jpg


WindFlapTopPiecedConstruction.jpg


As seen here and in those photos found directly above, the additional thickness of leather created a problem when using so many pieces of leather to run the top coat stitches.

ArnoffWindFlapTopStitchingCloseUp-1.jpg


As I go over this Arnoff AN-J-3A I'm more than certain that I will come up with some other unique features and qualities from this maker. This jacket represents to me one of the many aspects that I find to be enjoyable about this past time. Overall, this unusual find is all together quite remarkable and I was happy to share it with the forum members!

Cheers, Dave
 

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
bazelot said:
Dave, it's a Goodwear, John really outdid himself this time!

Not quite! Everything about this jacket is really 69 years old and as built by Arnoff Manufacturing in or around 1944. Even the knits are all original. I only found two super small moth nips in to the waist band. Those holes have since been darned by me! Not to mention, there were no nips or wear found on either of the cuff knits. Those existing cuff knits are pristine.

Apparently, this Arnoff contract is one of three (True Vintage) USN contracts that utilized the folded or A-2 type waist knits.

Cheers, Dave
 

bazelot

Well-Known Member
It is a fantastic jacket. I wonder if a forum member who has a Arnoff jacket could shed some light on the particularities of this jacket to confirm that all the details noticeable are the same on another Arnoff jacket.
 

bebel

Active Member
Dave,

As always a very interesting analysis about an outsdanting and rare jacket. Thank you.
I particulary learnt that some of those USN jackets had the same type of knits as USAAF A-2s. I must confess that I first said to myself that it was a repro seeing the excellent shape and these knits! :oops:
Franck
 

Peter Graham

Well-Known Member
Maverickson said:
However, if you look closely you will notice that the buttons used on this Arnoff jacket are totaly unique as they are void the bezel found on all other USN jackets.

ArnoffButtonCloseUp.jpg

Not totally Dave. Have a look at the buttons on my recently sold Foster AN-J-3A.

P3075707800x600_zpsac0cb44b.jpg


That is a fantastic jacket Dave and one I would love to own. The AN-J-3A and AN-6552 jackets suit my body shape much better than the M-422A, being short in the body and wide in the shoulders.
 

PaulGT3

New Member
I was blown away by how I loved these jackets. I had no Idea I would gravitate to the
G-1 and its earlier derivitives but its my M422A that is my favorite of my collection.
The Goat and the collar just amazing. I wore it this morning just fabulous.
 

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Peter Graham said:
Maverickson said:
However, if you look closely you will notice that the buttons used on this Arnoff jacket are totaly unique as they are void the bezel found on all other USN jackets.

ArnoffButtonCloseUp.jpg

Not totally Dave. Have a look at the buttons on my recently sold Foster AN-J-3A.

P3075707800x600_zpsac0cb44b.jpg


That is a fantastic jacket Dave and one I would love to own. The AN-J-3A and AN-6552 jackets suit my body shape much better than the M-422A, being short in the body and wide in the shoulders.

Hi Peter,

Up and until I received this Arnoff I had no idea that this style of button had ever been used on any other USN jacket! Then it must be a characteristic unique to the AN-J-3A.

I'm not knocking the M-422a but in my mind, the body length change with it's decrease in length in the AN-J-3A is certainly an upgrade. Really, that additional body length found on those Gordon & Furgesson M-422As, when worn make me feel like I am wearing a coat rather than a Jacket. Not to mention, I believe that with their shorter length the newer style jackets are more comfortable when worn in most any positon. That new design with the AN-J-3A could then afford to reshape the jacket by cutting it quicker to the waist and still remain more comfortable than the M-422A.

In those period photographs I notice that many of those longer M-422A jackets were worn with the leather zipper extension and waist knits tucked up inside the jacket. That same look can be seen here.

VMB-413Jackets.jpg


The fact that you find those shorter jackets more comfortable with their wider shoulders and shorter body stands to reason. The AN-J-3A jacket really was the true predecessor to the G-1 and a style jacket that has changed very little since it's conception.

Cheers,Dave
 
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