Ahhhh my Aero Highwayman has gone hazy?

[CombatWombat]

Well chaps my highwayman has decided to go hazy and develop a cloudy complexion tonight after I got caught in a bit of rain yesterday.
I gave it a airing overnight and applied some Saphir renovatur (I think that's how it's spelt) to clear the cloudy complexion off and now it looks like I've somehow stripped off the topcoat.....
Anyone got any suggestions on how to get the lovely sheen back that Aero is known for or have I somehow destroyed it?

 

[Southoftheborder]

Depends what the hide is. If it's CXL then Chuck Horween has written that pure neatsfoot oil is what they use to finish CXL, and he recommends a light coating occasionally. Pure neatsfoot oil though not blended. Because the mineral oil in the blended stuff can rot stitching and the pure oil won't. It' s what I use on that leather.

 

[CombatWombat]

Depends what the hide is. If it's CXL then Chuck Horween has written that pure neatsfoot oil is what they use to finish CXL, and he recommends a light coating occasionally. Pure neatsfoot oil though not blended. Because the mineral oil in the blended stuff can rot stitching and the pure oil won't. It' s what I use on that leather.

Oh it's older Connelly steerhide (I thought if I'm buying a Scottish made jacket that I'd go with UK made leather)
Secondly I have no idea what "neatsfoot oil" is or how to get pure oil from.
I have a tin of mink oil from my reenactment days but it's got a strong smell that I really don't want to "overwhelm" the faint rose smell the jacket has

 

[Southoftheborder]

I've had a couple of Connelly HWM over the years and I aways used Connelly's Hide Food on them. It's just called Hide Food now since Connelly went bust twenty years ago. But any good quality leather cream will do the job. Horses for courses.

 

[CombatWombat]

I've had a couple of Connelly HWM over the years and I aways used Connelly's Hide Food on them. It's just called Hide Food now since Connelly went bust twenty years ago. But any good quality leather cream will do the job. Horses for courses.

I might look around for that
The "big brand" down here is Oakwood, which leaves a greasy residue on everything I've tried it on

 

[flyincowboy]

Oh it's older Connelly steerhide (I thought if I'm buying a Scottish made jacket that I'd go with UK made leather)
Secondly I have no idea what "neatsfoot oil" is or how to get pure oil from.
I have a tin of mink oil from my reenactment days but it's got a strong smell that I really don't want to "overwhelm" the faint rose smell the jacket has

Try to find some "Goana oil " work well on leather...

 

[Southoftheborder]

I just looked up Hide Food and it's branded as Connelly's again. It's called Hide Care now. I remember seeing that Connelly had been resurrected but I don't really know much about the new company or if it's related in any way in personnel to the old one. They don't do the leather for Rollers any more I think. A search would bring up the info.

 

[CombatWombat]

Well after a few hours a day and a few weeks of the weak sun we've been having (and vigorous rubbing each night) it's finally going from the hazy "White Bloom" to a glossy look it usually has....
Last time I use Saphir on it (or anything that's not footwear)
Thanks for the help you informative bunch

 

[Nickb123]

My Teamster seems to get what I assume is referred to as “bloom” near the creases. It rubs off with a damp towel but it keeps reappearing.

 

[CombatWombat]

My Teamster seems to get what I assume is referred to as “bloom” near the creases. It rubs off with a damp towel but it keeps reappearing.

View attachment 115017

Ahhh that's similar to what was happening to me....
Is it just in that area or is it everywhere it creases?

 

[Nickb123]

Ahhh that's similar to what was happening to me....
Is it just in that area or is it everywhere it creases?

Just along the creases. Highly doubt it’s mold, seems to be what is referred to as “bloom” - excess fats stuffed into the leather being pushed out. Plenty written on the effect on TFL.

Let’s hope!

 

[Smithy]

I think that's probably something to do with a reaction to waxes on certain wear (crease) points and the humidity level. I got that on some leather goods back in soggy, old Auckland.

BTW Wombat, you're in Oz so I'll put a very big plug in for RM Williams Saddle and Leather Dressing. I've used it on everything leather for decades from boots to jackets to luggage, absolutely everything. The stuff is just brilliant. Doesn't rot stitching and won't go rancid over time. I won't use anything else.

 

[CombatWombat]

I think that's probably something to do with a reaction to waxes on certain wear (crease) points and the humidity level. I got that on some leather goods back in soggy, old Auckland.

BTW Wombat, you're in Oz so I'll put a very big plug in for RM Williams Saddle and Leather Dressing. I've used it on everything leather for decades from boots to jackets to luggage, absolutely everything. The stuff is just brilliant. Doesn't rot stitching and won't go rancid over time. I won't use anything else.

The stuff i used to cut down on the white hazy was Joseph Lyddeys saddle soap funnily enough.....
I've decided to do what works on my bike leathers...... just a little saddle soap and a light layer of "homebrand" RM Willams dressing that the local saddlery stocks (Oakwood makes it and RM Willams slaps their name on it, followed by a brisk walking of the rabbits (they love to keep me on my toes)
Thankfully the aroma of rosewater is still there after the trauma lol

 

[CombatWombat]

Just along the creases. Highly doubt it’s mold, seems to be what is referred to as “bloom” - excess fats stuffed into the leather being pushed out. Plenty written on the effect on TFL.

Let’s hope!

Ahhh well my haze was all over the left front panel......which seems to be more grainy and pliable than the right panel or the back
Had some white haze around the zipper and a curved line along the back (which makes sense since I kinda slouch when I'm seated with it on......so it's a scrunch/push up line)

 

[dinomartino1]

I went through a phase way back of spending lots of money buying leather dressings from overseas when the best one was here all the time , Pecards to thick and gooey and does not sink in very well needs a hairdryer, vasaleine worked better and was a fraction of the cost. I use oakwoods/ RM Williams like you, really cheap in bunnings and of all the different waste of money things I have tried it is by far the best, My main measure of how good a dressing in is how well and fast it absorbs into the leather and oakwoods is great for that, what I really like is that I can put it on with my fingers which gives way better control than using a rag and yes it is the same as product as RM williams.

I think that's probably something to do with a reaction to waxes on certain wear (crease) points and the humidity level. I got that on some leather goods back in soggy, old Auckland.

BTW Wombat, you're in Oz so I'll put a very big plug in for RM Williams Saddle and Leather Dressing. I've used it on everything leather for decades from boots to jackets to luggage, absolutely everything. The stuff is just brilliant. Doesn't rot stitching and won't go rancid over time. I won't use anything else.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/oakwood-350ml-household-leather-conditioning-cream_p0163666

 

[Micawber]

I use Oakwood dressing here in the UK for our horse tack, harness and occasionally other leathers jackets included, I also use other products too. Given the climate here most will show a bloom if left unattended for periods or if too much is used and not buffed off.
Leather treatments have been a much visited subject in the past.

Nice to see you again Dino!

 

[CombatWombat]

I went through a phase way back of spending lots of money buying leather dressings from overseas when the best one was here all the time , Pecards to thick and gooey and does not sink in very well needs a hairdryer, vasaleine worked better and was a fraction of the cost. I use oakwoods/ RM Williams like you, really cheap in bunnings and of all the different waste of money things I have tried it is by far the best, My main measure of how good a dressing in is how well and fast it absorbs into the leather and oakwoods is great for that, what I really like is that I can put it on with my fingers which gives way better control than using a rag and yes it is the same as product as RM williams.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/oakwood-350ml-household-leather-conditioning-cream_p0163666

I've tried Saphir (on my "pretty' leathers) and Sno Deal (on my "bug splat" leathers) and I've come to the grand conclusion that the factory up the road (Oakwood used to be at Sandgate NSW) makes the most suitable leather conditioner that I've ever tried and seems to soak in without any hair dryer needed.... though a good dose of morning sunlight helps the process.
It also has a pretty nice smell compared to the animal fat based conditioner/dubbin