Hi All,
Not long ago I did an off set aviator type jacket for the Silver Surfer. At that time the Surfer & I worked out the details together to come up with the design for that triple pleated yoke back panel. That jacket was patterned using my vintage Monarch MFG. jackets and is seen below.
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As compared to Steve's meandering zip jacket, the front of Victor's has is a more simple off set zip design.
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Subsequent to building Victors jacket I was fortunate to have been able to source a beyond rare original Monarch M/C with the half gussets. Most notably, there is nothing like having an original jacket in hand to derive a 100% correct pattern. Otherwise and I maintain you are fooling your self if you think that a design can be correctly duplicated if simply taken from a picture.
Since that time have added that half gusseted sleeve set up (using my original vintage jacket's design) with this same build. All of which really sets my jackets off nicely.
Another of those off set zipped jackets is seen below. Note that like both Victor's & Steve's build it was done with French type seams complete. Exactly as Monarch MFG would have done back in the day. But in this next example the sleeves were done with the addition of half gussets and a vintage option for premier jackets from back in the day. Furthermore, It might not look it but the next example seen below was for a big boy & sized as a 50 or 52 LONG.
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Most notably, I have sourced and now exclusively use the exact machine Monarch MFG used back in the day to create their sleeves. That machine allows me to stitch cylinders and just as was done back in the day
As a result & just like vintage Monarch MFG jackets. my jackets can be done with both the inner and outer sleeve seams with French seams. A feat which is nearly impossible otherwise.
Cheers, Dave
Hi Couchy,
Yes, the same double needle machine as used by Monarch back in the day. In addition, the exact same keyhole button hole machine used back in the day.
See some examples (taken from my latest build) of the button hole machine's handy work.
As seen unbuttoned.
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& Buttoned.
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To say the least using those old machines is an art on to it's self just keeping that button hole machine correctly adjusted and running.
Cheers, Dave
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Very pleased with the outcome...Truly one of a kind. THANKS to Dave
steve
That’s a wonderful looking jacket . Does it have a makers label ? If so please show us who made that jacket . Looks very nice .Thank you. I own a french cyclist jacket with a almost similar leather as your jacket. The seller wasn't able to tell me which leather type it was made of and no one else was abel either. So I try to figure out...
I should have knownNo label. The jacket was sold to me by pilot. It's not one of his self produced jackets but one of the former maker pilot worked with before, only known as the "little artisan". I don't know the exact age but I think it's between 2 or 5 years old.
I should have known
Awesome looking !