Questions about my latest G-1

Discussion in 'Vintage' started by navairfan, Jan 21, 2018.

  1. navairfan

    navairfan New Member

    Messages:
    27
    Location:
    Biloxi, Mississippi, USA
    I just bought this Brill Bros. G-1, which - if I'm reading the tag correctly - is a D series jacket made in 1970. Does this mean it's goatskin? Would the collar be wool?

    Thanks in advance!

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
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  2. johnwayne

    johnwayne Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,230
    Hard to tell if goat by pic but collar is almost certainly man made I think called Dynel(?) but others here will tell you more!
     
  3. navairfan

    navairfan New Member

    Messages:
    27
    Location:
    Biloxi, Mississippi, USA
    Thanks, Johnny! I
    strongly suspected the collar was Dynal.
     
  4. johnwayne

    johnwayne Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,230
    Your welcome! Re leather then like I say it's impossible to say even when enlarging the image but from what I can see it does not look like goat which is quite a 'pebbly' grain. Suggest you look at either Goodwear or Eastman's site at their images of G1's as they are based on early contracts and are goat, their images obviously being sharp enough to see the grain pattern.
     
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  5. Roughwear

    Roughwear Well-Known Member

    It was very common for G-1s from the period after 1969 to be made of cowhide and my guess is this one is pressed cow. Close-up pictures would be very helpful.
     
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  6. Tenfifteen

    Tenfifteen Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Cachan, France
    The collar is typicaly Dynal ! The fun thing is that Brill Bros. made in the same contract (8415-268-7800) some 7823D with mouton collar and some with Dynal after 1969...

    Here's a 1968 Brill Bros. 7823D (8415-268-7800, DSA 00-68-C-1805) with a russet mouton collar I found for a friend of mine (next to his 1975 7823E Star)

    [​IMG]

    Fun fact, the 1970 7823E from Brill have the same Dynal collar but the leather is absolutly different (classic 70's light brown "milk chocolate")
     
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  7. navairfan

    navairfan New Member

    Messages:
    27
    Location:
    Biloxi, Mississippi, USA
    Thanks for the information! With all the different contracts and manufacturers, it gets confusing (for me, anyway) trying to figure out who made what jacket out of what material!
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2018
  8. Tenfifteen

    Tenfifteen Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Cachan, France
    I think (but that's only my supposition) that the "dark" 7823D where all goatskin... the pressed cowhide may have come later with some 7823E "light brown", the cowhide I seen is twice as thick, less supple and almost unruffled with no pebble grain in some area where the leather in tight folded (around the zipper, under the pockets, etc..) But it not that easy, some average goatskins look similar...
     
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  9. HackerF15E

    HackerF15E Member

    Messages:
    179
    Location:
    The wild west
    That's my understanding, too...the "cows" didn't come along until the E-series jackets.
     
  10. Marv

    Marv Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,043
    Location:
    England
    I have a 1971 D series Brill Bros and the leather is definately goastskin but the collar is Dynal.

    From what I can remember, during the transition period between the D series to E series, manufacturers needed to use up their existing supplies of goat (and D series Contract labels) so there was a mix of G1s issues made from goat but with the synthetic collar being issued between 1969/70 - 1971.

    When the E series contract came into play, cowhide was definately used along with the Dynal collar and you can tell the difference between the hides due to the weight.

    I know the cowhide was pressed in some cases to give off a pebbly grain effect making the leather look somewhat like goatskin but you can still tell its cow.

    I own a 1977 Ralph Edwards which is definately cow and doesn't really have that pressed goat look to it plus, its super squeeky and much heavier that the Brill Bros, still a nice jacket to wear.

    One thing I did notice though, from the 1960's through the 1970's the hide shade became lighter in colour moving away from the darker for seal shade of brown to more of a russet colour but the Dynal collar always seems to look black in all cases.
     
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  11. Tenfifteen

    Tenfifteen Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Cachan, France
    good point !
    For the weight it is still a question for me... my 1973 "ultra squeeky" Brill Bross looks like pressed cow (way much thicker than my 1955 and 1963 Fosters and way more "rubbery/gummy")
    But it's also less heavy than the Fosters !! (less than 1,4kg)

    As you say, there's no question about the Dynal : it's alway deep BLACK !
     
  12. MikeyB-17

    MikeyB-17 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,935
    Location:
    Cornwall, UK
    This is my G-1, the label is completely illegible so I don't know who made it or when, I imagine it's cow, but despite the Dynel collar I consider it the nicest of the many G-1's I've owned over the years. The leather is thick and grainy and far nicer than any of the goatskins I've had. The one that came closest was a C-series Irvin B. Foster (and the worst was a '63 B-series Irvin B. Foster with cardboard-like goatskin with a grey colour to the leather under the surface finish). The Dynel collar is definitely brown, however! _20180207_151352.JPG DSC_0024.JPG DSC_0023.JPG DSC_0022.JPG
     
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  13. Tenfifteen

    Tenfifteen Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Cachan, France
    This is impressive how the two sides of the sleves are differents !
     

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