New Model "Admirls Jacket" & Our New Hides

Discussion in 'Reproduction manufacturers' started by Skyhawk, Mar 25, 2018.

  1. Skyhawk

    Skyhawk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    679
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    Hello all, I'm pleased to announce a new project we have been working on for quite some time now. I have wanted to do a reproduction of the famous "Admiral Beltane" jacket since I first made our 37J1 model. The Admiral's jacket is one of the few surviving examples of the USN 37J1 flight jacket. As such, details from the jacket were used when creating our version of the 37J1 flight jacket.
    Here is the original:
    Ad-front1.jpg
    Here is our test jacket
    Test-Front2.jpg
    Our biggest challenge has been to find a hide that would be similar to the "worn in" capeskin found on the original. We have located a close match in our new hide.
    This is a Sheepskin Nubuck that is very similar to the early Nubuck Suede seen in the 1930's that became popular in the civilian flight jacket, sport moto, and fashion industries.
    The hide is super pliable like cloth and displays some very nice graining as well. We are also developing a waxed version of this hide that will be water resistant and should be even closer to the look of the original jacket:
    Test-Grain.jpg

    This is Test jacket #1. We will be making the pockets a little smaller and offering the historically correct Mid level pockets, or the low pocket configuration seen below:

    Test-Front.jpg The buttons will be our Chocolate Brown resin buttons with genuine bone inner buttons. Genuine horn or mottled brown casein outer buttons are also available upon request, but we feel that our Chocolate Brown is the best match to the original that we have at this time:
    Buttons-1.jpg
    The original jacket had solid brown casein outer buttons and bone backing buttons:
    Admirals-liner.jpg
    4 hole bone backing buttons, tan cotton liner extends to the right edge under backing buttons.
    Our test jacket (simulated bone buttons on test jacket):
    Test-inside.jpg
    Test-back.jpg

    Regards,
    Jay
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2018
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  2. Skip

    Skip Well-Known Member

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    That looks a very smart and comfortable jacket Jay, especially in that hide
     
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  3. CBI

    CBI Well-Known Member

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    3,825
    congrats - excellent
     
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  4. CBI

    CBI Well-Known Member

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    3,825
    I don't care for light colored leather but I really like this one a lot. I'll bet it will patina up really well.

    HMMMMM...............
     
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  5. Skyhawk

    Skyhawk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    679
    Location:
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    Yes I think the hide will really look rugged once it's worn for a while. This hide is fairly thick too coming in at 3 -3.5 oz. so it should be pretty tough. I will be giving the test jackets hell like I normally do with the beta testing. Photos update to follow.
     
  6. Dr H

    Dr H Well-Known Member

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    3,601
    Location:
    Somerset, UK
    Jay, I applaud the effort as the jacket looks good, but the pocket placement is pretty low for a direct copy?
    Was it a conscious decision to move them?
    Cheers
    Ian
     
  7. Persimmon

    Persimmon Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,392
    Location:
    Nottingham England
    Ian
    In the original post Jay does say -

    This is Test jacket #1. We will be making the pockets a little smaller and offering the historically correct Mid level pockets, or the low pocket configuration seen below:
     
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  8. Dr H

    Dr H Well-Known Member

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    3,601
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    Thanks Alan, I missed that comment in the original post.
     
  9. Skyhawk

    Skyhawk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    679
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    Thanks Alan, yes Ian we will have the correct Mid-level pockets. The lower pockets are an option as many people like this look over the higher mid level pockets. Here are a few shots of originals. They pretty much all had mid level pockets, as far as the contract jackets go. There were 2 main variations of pocket flaps, the flat and the angled. There are earlier examples before the contract jackets were made with higher chest pockets like a dress shirt. These jackets however, were not made for a 37J1 contract as far as I know.

    The guy all the way to the right is in an A-1, the other 2 low pocket jackets are cloth 37J1's. All the other 37J1's in the photo are Mid pocket jackets. The guy second from the right is in a jacket from the same contract as the "Admiral's Jacket". Note the Mid-level pockets.
    USMC-37J1da.jpg Regards,
    - Jay
     

    Attached Files:

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  10. Skyhawk

    Skyhawk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    679
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    Update on the waxed leather version. We have been trying different treatments for our waxed version of this hide. Our latest trial is looking like the clear winner. It is an all natural bees wax treatment and really makes an impressive barrier against the elements. We are in the beta test phase but the hide is looking very promising so far!

    Comparison, un-waxed on the right next to the darker waxed hide on the left:
    Wax-2.jpg

    Water repellency:
    P1030870.JPG

    After the test. Just a quick blot from a paper towel and the water is gone without a trace:
    Wax-3.jpg

    I am also wearing this jacket to test it out. Very comfortable and surprisingly warm. The wax treatment is clean with no residue left on the jacket.

    Regards,
    Jay
     
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  11. CBI

    CBI Well-Known Member

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    3,825
    waxed looks great - sometimes waxed hides can develop some awesome patina!!!!!!
     
  12. Skyhawk

    Skyhawk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    679
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    Thanks CBI! That is my thought as well. I am hoping that the moisture added will help the graining deepen and develop more quickly. Also as the wax dissipates, the nap of the hide will start coming through again. This should make for some nice rougher wear areas and hopefully a pretty rugged look. At that point the effectiveness of the wax will also most likely be decreased, and then you could choose to re treat it or just let it go and see how roughed out it gets.
     
  13. Skip

    Skip Well-Known Member

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    1,190
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    Those hides look REALLY awesome Jay. Would love to see some wearing pics if you can manage it
     
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  14. bseal

    bseal Well-Known Member

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    Benicia, CA
    Congrats. Glad to see the darker knits are now an option.
     
  15. Kennyz

    Kennyz Active Member

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    144
    Location:
    USA
    Excellent Jay, and the hides look great.

    Ken
     
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  16. Skyhawk

    Skyhawk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    679
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    Some updated photos of the waxed Nubuck with a little wear on it. I wore it out in some heavy rains. The waxed hide repels water well in a light mist but soaks in when subjected to steady rain. I let the jacket soak through and then wore it until dry again. The creasing happened quickly just from this one outing. The nap is showing through a bit but the jacket has retained it's water repellency. Water still beads up on the surface and can be wiped away for a few minutes before soaking in. This is just what we were looking for in a wax treatment. It is resistant to fluids and staining but not fully waterproof. This provides a great advantage with Nubuck leather because if you spill something on the jacket, you have a few minutes to wipe it off before it soaks into the hide. Untreated Nubuck would instantly stain in the case of an accidental spill. Fit pictures still to come....
    Wear-1.jpg

    Wear-2.jpg

    Wear-3.jpg

    Wear-4.jpg

    Wear-5.jpg

    Regards,
    Jay
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2018
  17. Skyhawk

    Skyhawk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    679
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    Here is some photos of me wearing the jacket:
    Adm-front-1.jpg

    Adm-front-2.jpg

    Adm-front-4.jpg
    Adm-front-5.jpg Regards,
    Jay
     
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  18. CBI

    CBI Well-Known Member

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    3,825
    NIIIICE!!!!
     
  19. Persimmon

    Persimmon Well-Known Member

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    1,392
    Location:
    Nottingham England
  20. Skyhawk

    Skyhawk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    679
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    Hi Alan, I will work on it. I had my girlfriend snaps some shots this morning but she was out the door to work so I couldn't get the back shots.

    Thanks!
    -Jay
     

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