Need some advice on making 70s style leather jackets

[fishmeok]

Your machine uses the same presser feet, neeedles, and most parts as my "new" 211 (211 is just the newer version). You want a singe arm left presser foot set with serrated bottom if your machine does not already have one, like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/SINGLE-TOE-PRESSER- ... 18Q2el1247

The 111/211 are great because we can get parts anywhere and they are still cheap. It uses 135X17 needles, that sewing machine place that serviced it last would be a good place to start for finding parts, feet, etc. I use an 18 size regular needle and tex 90 thread, but you may want to use lighter thread depending on what looks best. For jacket work I have not had any problems with regular needles, but it would be good to try both kinds and see what you prefer.

I don't know if you have been here before, but spend some quality jacket time at
www.goodwearleather.com

This is John Chapman's business, he's one of the reasons I decided to start trying to make my own jackets and has been a HUGE HUGE help to me. Lucky for you, he's in Seattle (I used to live there too, Green Lake and West Seattle. Miss the city, not trying to get up and down I-5 every damn day :evil: )
Cheers
Mark

 

[Aykut]

I called her today to pick up the machine she told me her mother sold the machine without asking her to someone else!..It's pretty annoying,i was soo excited about this(probably someone offered more money)..oh well, i guess next time i have to grab it right away,i don't have an suv or truck though so i had to wait a day...Although this was a great deal i'm checking craigslist and ebay every 5 hours...in the meantime saving more money for maybe a good new machine...

Also I see these on ebay a lot, the sellers feedback is good..some unkown brand called S.E.W Line http://cgi.ebay.com/S-E-W-LINE-NEW-...m14&_trkparms=72:570|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318 do you guys think i should get one and see how it handles what wanna do?..or should i wait for a good vintage machine..people say these are the same as the sailrite machines which are pretty overpriced...the reviews are ok..

Mark, I'm gonna check out John Chapman's site..thanks for that link..it's great that he's in seattle maybe i could contact him in the future..

sorry i got you guys all excited too..couldn't get the damn 111W! :x

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Aykut bad news on the sewing machine ,next time one comes up and you complete the sale pay for it and take the head with you and come back later for the machine table and base then they cannot sell it to someone else .The machine that you have the link to will only have a 1 amp motor not enough power there for you ,ask Mark what he thinks .I personally think this is a Chinese machine and if it anything like the woodworking tools stay clear of it .If you can find a table and a motor you can buy my model 78 ,I can ship it to you via Greyhound bus its not to expensive .Its the same model machine that Mark has in his pictures .

All the best Jeff

 

[fishmeok]

Hey Jeff, I forgot when we were talking that you have a 78 too- how has it been working for you?

Aykut- I'd wait until you find one locally. The motor on that e-bay machine is no more powerful than a regular home sewing machine. Since they say the speed is 800 RPM I'd guess they run it through some gearing to get the torque up. Fine for a portable deal that only gets used once in a while, but not for what we do.

Not to say that the modern industrial machines are all garbage by any means- John uses one and you can see the quality of the work he does. if you can find a newer one for a good price I'd jump at at it. I just prefer the older stuff, but that's the stubborn snob side of me. try checking around the sewing machine shops too- the one mentioned in the ad would be good place to start. You should be able to find a nice, serviced 111 or 211 (or Consew 225, or Juki 564, same machines) with a table and motor for around $400-$600 on up. If you are lucky you will find one with reverse too.

Cheers
Mark

 

[CBI]

Were else can you find a site with a bunch of GUYS getting all excited about SEWING MACHINES????????

Very interesting stuff, love the vintage machines!

 

[Anonymous]

Hi mark to be honest with you I do not use the 78 much since I got it running ,keep gravitating towards the Necchi it seems to do what I need it to do .Its easier to move around than the 78 which has also been converted to handle .
All the best Jeff

 

[Aykut]

i just saw this one on craigslist - $150 with free delivery..looks nice and clean...should i get this? maybe it's a good idea to use this till i find a better walking foot machine ...he/she says it's too fast in the listing...can i slow it down by putting something under the pedal?...Thanks guys..sorry for all the questions

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/art/1000892820.html

update:Ok, i made some search and i think this is a Singer model 31-15 or 31-17 ..I sent him an email and waiting for a response from the owner...

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Aykut pass on this one if your serious about sewing leather ,with my experience in leather and the problems you will run into ,let it go .Do not get a machine for the sake of having one you will only spend your money twice believe me this machine is no better than the Kenmore .

All the best Jeff .

 

[Aykut]

If this is model 31-15 or 31-17 i'm reading the manual and it says for stitching shoes and leather...i agree with you though i'm just being impatient here...ok than i'll keep looking for another 111W or 211 or something in that range...Thanks for the fast reply Jeff..I appreciate all this help..best..Aykut

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Aykut whats happening any luck finding a sewing machine .

all the best Jeff .

 

[Aykut]

Hi Jeff..still looking..nothing good posted on craigslist in my area for a while...In the mean time i'm saving and thinking about the Tacsew T111-155 http://www.sewinggold.com/TT111-155.html..it's a modern copy of the singer 111 series and i found good reviews online...For about $850 i can get it with the stand and the servo motor...it's a lot of money for me but we'll see...

How you guys been any new projects,any new jackets from Mark?..

I found these couple of days ago...

Golden Fleece horsehide (broken zipper,needs replacement)

Avirex (good condition overall,looks like the zipper head is replaced)

 

[Miles_Archer]

I have an old East West jacket. Unlined, maybe late 60's. Kind of cut like a western shirt, snaps up. Made out of a gnarly brown leather. Fucking love it, they really made a quality product.
Good luck with your projects.

 

[Aykut]

post some photos of the EW jacket if you have time..would love to see it..best..Aykut

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Aykut good to hear from you ,those jackets are very nice .I have an address here of a company I did buisiness with on the west coast and they were very helpful .Give these guys a call and tell them your looking for an industrial machine or ask do they know of any outfits who sell used industrial machines or comercial machine types .

They are A&M industrial supply company .306 West Olympic Blvd,Los Angeles ,CA 90015
(213) 747.5022
Email [email protected]

Mark is working on another jacket type A-1

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3567

I have been trying to keep out of trouble ,and making patches now and again when I have the time ,talk to you soon, let me know if A&M can help you .Here are some east west Jacket pictures/
http://images.google.com/images?um=1&hl ... =N&ndsp=18

http://www.lelands.com/bid.aspx?lot=2&auctionid=505

http://www.retrodress.com/coat109.html

All the best Jeff .

 

[Aykut]

Thanks Jeff for the links..i'll give them a call when i have time..i've been pretty busy this month hopefully next month i'll start some new projects...

 

[fishmeok]

I'd keep looking on craigslist as well, something will eventually show up and save you four or five hundred dollars over a newer industrial. In the meantime you can try making test jackets out of cloth like the A-1 I just made. It takes just as much work but you can fix your mistakes and try out new ideas without ruining a hide.

On the downside you will not be able to sell them for anything near what you put into them, but I think it's worth it just to get the stupid patterns figured out. I've learned the hard way that half of the problems I've been having have been due to incorrect patterns. It takes a few tries to get good at copying an existing jacket, and I'm still a rank beginner.
Cheers
Mark

 

[Aykut]

I went to the leather store today and found a large piece of dark burgundy cowhide (around 30sq ft) in the scrap section.it was only $35,they sell the scraps by pound.it has some imperfections and scratches but good enough for a test jacket..i also got a heavy duty brass YKK zipper for $2...I was waiting for a good sewing machine to start a jacket but whatever I need to practice,hopefully the Kenmore will handle this work...I'll update you guys with the results..i'm starting right now..

 

[fishmeok]

Your big issue is going to be feeding the leather on folded seams 4 or 5 layers thick-
but it is good practice...
Cheers
Mark

 

[Aykut]

This is what i have after about 8-9 hours of work time...Kenmore pretty much died at the end of this jacket,broke 3-4 needles,it was a total pain as expected I'm getting an industrial machine soon...although it's a pretty basic jacket i'm happy with how it turned out though..i might add some front pockets later..i have to stay away from it for a couple of days..

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Aykut that jacket came out nice ,the fit is great and everything is where is should be ,the collars are real funky .Did you ever consider cuffs on the end of the sleeves the same as the collar but pointing backwards and upside down that would look really cool .Did you make the pattern or did you borrow it from another jacket .I sell you my model 78 for $95 + SHIPPING IF YOU WANT IT .You will need to find a table and motor ,I could ship it greyhound to keep the cost down .

Al the best Jeff