Fivestar Dubow 27798 Horsehide

[usafchappyt]

This is my initial review of my Fivestar Dubow 27798. I will repost updates and photos as the jacket ages.

First the photos:

The jacket. You guys know what these jackets look like all laid out, I draped this over the chair to give a little better look at the leather. Details are to show particularly interesting areas of grain etc.

Fit pics, standing unzipped:

Standing, zipped:

 

[usafchappyt]

Close-ups:

Sitting:

 

[usafchappyt]

FiveStar Leather replica of the J.A. Dubow Mfg. Co. A-2, from their 1942 contract order 27798.

Purchase date: 31 March 2022
Ship date: 6 April 2022
Delivery Date: 11 April 2022 (five total days from Lahore, Pakistan to the midwestern United States)
Size purchased: 44L, custom cut to 26.5” long in the back (1.1” longer than standard).

Summary:
Russet Horsehide (veg tanned, semi-aniline, standard)
Orange cotton lining (standard)
New vintage-style Talon zipper (standard)

Mid-brown 100% wool knits (custom, historically accurate)
Khaki thread (custom, historically accurate)

Observations

1: Patterning. This is one of the great FiveStar jackets that was patterned from a WWII-era original. I found the first version I bought, sized M42 standard, was too short for my long torso and modern pants. I don’t wear vintage-era trousers belted above my navel, most of my pants hang around the hips or slightly above. This first jacket from FiveStar hang right at my beltline and would hop up above my pants at the slightest provocation. Additionally, it was too tight around the chest, particularly the shoulders. Extending the replacement jacket to 26.5” puts it slightly out of proportion to historical examples, but it fits me well and I feel good in it. Those with longer torsos and modern pants would do well to discuss length with Shawn before buying.

2: Construction. I don’t see any bunched or missed stitches, it all seems to run a very consistent 6 per inch with no loose ends. The seams are straight, and the zipper is sewn in without waves or wrinkles. This is a high level of craftsmanship.

3: Materials. The horsehide is “semi-aniline” veg-tanned leather. For those new to leather, “aniline” refers to a transparent dye that changes the color of the leather itself, semi-aniline means the leather has been aniline died and then given an opaque pigment top layer. Semi-aniline leather resists water stains and scuffs better than aniline, though this means it doesn’t develop the depth of patina we see in artisan leather like that often used by Goodwear and Eastman. But the A2 is a practical military garment, made of tough leather to match. This leather was color-matched and custom-tanned to match the original horsehide for the Rough Wear, but it seems to be good for Dubow russet horse as well. It’s a warm light-walnut died leather base with a classic russet pigment on the surface. It lacks the depth and richness of full aniline-dyed leather, true, but this is to be expected and is consistent with historic originals. And semi-aniline leather does develop a lovely patina with wear as the opaque pigment rubs off high areas and areas of frequent abrasion showing the lighter colored leather underneath.

The horsehide used for the FiveStar Dubow has a very even texture. It’s smooth, with almost no grain apart from a very fine hair cell texture. There are a few areas that show some variation: wrinkles across the chest, and some nice grain on the lower right back panel, left pocket, and back of the left sleeve, but it is generally consistent and smooth throughout. This initial effect is almost boring, but conventional experience suggests that with time and wear, and especially putting the jacket under a little bad weather, a good character and grain should emerge, and as it wears and the under color shows through it should be lovely. Even after a handful of outings, the smooth grain of the front is giving way to a hint of wrinkly character. Unfortunately, I spend most days in uniform, so this can’t be my “go-to” piece of outwear. Break-in may take longer for me than for those who can wear their jacket daily. Also, as luck would have it, jacket season is over, so it should remain unchanged for the next several months.

I should note that I do find a few areas with the variations in thickness that others have complained about: the lower back right, back left sleeve, in particular. It doesn’t offend me and is very historically accurate to WWII assembly line jackets, but for a $380 jacket made in the present day, I would like to see a little better commitment to cutting from the better parts of the leather. I should note also that these areas provide the more interesting grain areas.

The knits are mid-brown wool, which was my custom request, but still historically accurate per Goodwear’s description of the Dubow 27798 jacket, and my preference over dull purple. The same goes for the khaki thread, custom from FiveStar but period accurate.

4: Details. The jacket comes with standard FiveStar hardware which is new, but period-accurate: the snaps are United Carr reproductions with the appropriate four-part female side. Notably, the only place these female sides are visible is inside the pockets, which you can hardly see, great attention to detail! The zipper is a modern-made Talon in vintage style. Of the four original manufacturers, Talon is apparently the only available period-correct zipper in production available with Eastman owning the rights to Kwik and Crown, and Conmar being defunct. Dubow used Talon zippers, so no problem there. Shawn offers NOS zippers as well, or you can send him your own if you have access to a vintage example. The Talon zipper feels a little different than a modern zipper and gives an authentic impression each time I zip it up. It slides easily and smoothly and stays zipped.

I’m not the most well-informed on historical design details, but I have high confidence that this is a very correct jacket. In addition to painstakingly taking this jacket pattern from an original, looking back over Vintageleatherjacket.com archives, one can see how Shawn posted his jacket prototype for review and for members, many of whom are extremely knowledgeable, to point out any inaccuracies.

5: Personal thoughts. This is not a work of art made of artisanal Italian hide, rather, this is a high-quality replica of a WWII-era assembly-line military working garment. Goodwear and Eastman are well regarded for the quality of hiding and workmanship, but the originals were not painstakingly crafted too perfect. Thus, the FiveStar A2 in its various contract replicas may be the closest thing you can get to an original on the market today. The difference here is in the material, not the construction and workmanship. I think I would be happy to spend an extra $50 for a guarantee of better cut horsehide, and I'm definitely interested in another jacket in aniline leather. But zero buyers remorse: I wanted a modern-day version of the original article, and that’s what I got. I will likely try again sometime with the “pullup” horsehide, or save for an Aero or another higher-end jacket. But I'm happy for this to be my “one” jacket that perfectly replicates what our grandpas would have been issued in 1941/42.

 

[CBI]

great review - looks super - if it gets worn heavily its going to look even better and at which point you may not even be tempted to spend more on a higher dollar version. lets wait and see. Congrats!!!!!

 

[WingAndaPrayer]

Wear it out in the rain. It will grain up nicely after a good soaking.

 

[B-Man2]

Nicely done, very thorough review.
Well done USAFCT

 

[Kennyz]

Very Nice jacket, and a great fit @usafchappyt. Congratulations!

Ken

 

[London Cabbie]

Great review. I love the photos, extremely clear. Enjoy

 

[busdrivermike]

Wow, that’s a great looking jacket and great review

 

[CombatWombat]

Fantastic looking jacket that looks comfortable to wear and should develop a great look the more you wear it/get rained on/rub up against things

 

[Kermit3D]

A very nice jacket and a great review.
It just needs a little bit of abuse to look stunning !

 

[Adama36]

nice review.

Is it this jacket? https://www.fivestarleather.us/prod...ontract-27798-horsehide-leather-flight-jacket

 

[Tattoo A2]

Nice detailed review, thanks for sharing your thoughts with us.

 

[usafchappyt]

nice review.

Is it this jacket? https://www.fivestarleather.us/prod...ontract-27798-horsehide-leather-flight-jacket

Yessir. With khaki thread, russet knits and cut 1" longer.

 

[Silver Surfer]

Outstanding review, and spot on. From your pix, it would appear that 5* has upped their game somewhat.

 

[Brylcreemer]

Looks great. Does anyone know what the story is with their horsehide? I seem to remember Shawn saying that their jackets are so cheap because of all the coat/cow/sheep that are ritually slaughtered in Pakistan, but I assume Horses aren't amongst them, so does he import it?

 

[Brettafett]

Great review, nicely done. Looking forward to seeing to wear in over time.

 

[JonnyCrow]

Looks great. Does anyone know what the story is with their horsehide? I seem to remember Shawn saying that their jackets are so cheap because of all the coat/cow/sheep that are ritually slaughtered in Pakistan, but I assume Horses aren't amongst them, so does he import it?

Talking of Pakistan, I saved a Belgian seller the other day selling b6 and d1 jackets on Etsy their sheepskin sourced in Pakistan so it makes sense

 

[MauldinFan]

Great review and while I was mulling over a 5star before, I'm really considering it now!

 

[WingAndaPrayer]

Now that its a few months out, how’s that hide holding up? Any issues with it peeling?